The gentle lull of the sea, the promise of adventure, and the reassurance of a carefully planned itinerary. That is, until Norwegian Cruise Line looked at our perfectly chosen route and said:
“Let’s change everything.”

We booked this particular cruise for a few very specific reasons:

It was all going swimmingly… until Norwegian decided to play “Cruise Roulette” with our trip.

The original itinerary (shown in blue on the left of the image) was a well-balanced cocktail of cultures, countries, and conveniently spaced landings. Then came the updated version (highlighted in yellow), which was less cocktail and more “open bottle of sea-sickness tablets and pray for land.”

From Adventure to Adrift

Our cruise turned into “Castaway Edition” when Maputo, Fort Dauphin, and Richard’s Bay vanished from the itinerary—replaced by surprise sea days and shruggy emails from Norwegian.

We’d booked tours, packed outfits, and researched mosquito strategies. Instead, we rebooked excursions on the fly, cursed the app, and Googled “What to do in Antsiranana” over breakfast.

By day four at sea, we’d named the waves and befriended the towel animals. Compensation? None. Just a robotic “thanks for understanding.”

Still, we adapted, laughed, and leaned into the chaos. Lesson learned? Pack a sense of humor—and don’t get too attached to the itinerary.

2 nights stay in Mauritius prior to the cruise

Before embarking on our cruise, we decided to treat ourselves to a few days at Ambre Mauritius, an adults-only, all-inclusive resort nestled along the stunning east coast of the island.

From the moment we arrived, we were greeted with warm smiles and a refreshing welcome drink—setting the tone for a truly relaxing stay. Our room was spacious and modern, complete with a private balcony offering breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean .

The resort boasts a 700-meter stretch of pristine white sandy beach, perfect for morning strolls or simply lounging with a cocktail in hand . We took full advantage of the complimentary water sports, trying our hand at paddleboarding and snorkeling in the crystal-clear lagoon .

Dining at Ambre was a delight. With three restaurants and two bars, we indulged in a variety of cuisines, from local Mauritian dishes to international favorites . The staff went above and beyond to ensure our dining experiences were memorable—special thanks to the beach bar team for keeping our drinks topped up!

Please click on the following link for further details Mauritius

The Norwegian Dawn

On January 5th, we boarded our home for the next chunk of our journey: the Norwegian Dawn. A floating city of food, entertainment and brilliant company. The food? Plentiful. The entertainment? Surprisingly decent. We paid for the more at sea package which included 3 specialist restaurants, 150 minutes on board WI-FI and drinks package which was definitely worth it. Our cabin was cosy, the crew fabulous, and the ship itself a grand old dame.

Ship Specifications

• Gross Tonnage: 92,250 GT
• Length: 294 meters (965 feet)
• Beam (Width): 38 meters (125 feet)
• Cruising Speed: 25 knots
• Passenger Capacity: 2,340 (double occupancy); up to 2,800 maximum
• Crew Members: 1,032
• Decks: 15 total (11 passenger decks)
• Cabins: 1,170 staterooms, including 364 with balconies and 354 interior rooms

Eating Our Way Around the Norwegian Dawn: A Cruise Ship Foodie’s Paradise

Let’s be honest, one of the main reasons we cruise is the food — and Norwegian Dawn does not disappoint. Whether you’re a midnight muncher, a meat lover, or a salad saint (for a day or two), this ship caters to every craving.

Main Dining Rooms: Venetian & Aqua

If you like the idea of being handed a menu with more options than your local bistro — and none of the bill panic at the end — Venetian and Aqua are your go-to spots.

What to Expect:

• White tablecloths (you will drop something on them)
• Three-course meals that change daily
• Waiters who remember your name and your penchant for “just one more bread roll”
• Elegant dishes like seared salmon, prime rib, pasta primavera, and sinfully good chocolate lava cake

Tip: Venetian is the larger of the two, with more panoramic views. Aqua is slightly smaller and often quieter — perfect for a romantic(ish) dinner when you’ve been together long enough to eat in silence.

Aqua dinning room

Garden Café: The Buffet That Could Feed a Small Country

Otherwise known as: “I’m just going to look”… five plates later…

This is the land of endless breakfast sausages, late lunch salvation, and dinner options that somehow convince you to try pizza and curry and roast beef in the same meal.

Highlights:

• Huge salad bar (for the illusion of health)
• Live cooking stations (omelettes, stir-fries, pasta cooked right in front of you)
• Theme nights (Tex-Mex Tuesdays, Asian Fridays)
• Views of the ocean to distract you from the guilt of three desserts

Warning: Buffets during peak times can resemble polite food-based warfare. Go early, be swift, and grab that seat by the window.

O’Sheehan’s Bar & Grill: 24/7 Magic

Where time stops and the comfort food never ends

If you’ve ever thought “I could murder a burger at 2am,” welcome to paradise. This Irish-American pub is open around the clock.

Menu Must-Haves:

• Loaded nachos that could double as a meal (or a pillow)
• Buffalo wings — dangerously addictive
• Shepherd’s pie that would make your nan proud
• Ice cream brownie sundaes — because calories don’t count at sea

Top Tip: Sit at the bar and you’ll make at least three friends before your Guinness arrives.

Bamboo – A Taste of Asia (Specialty)

Sushi at sea? Yes, and it’s sensational.

Bamboo serves up everything from Thai noodles to fresh sashimi. It’s intimate, aromatic, and perfect for a change of pace.

Our Picks:

• Spicy tuna roll (Mike had four)
• Pad Thai with prawns
• Miso soup and crisp spring rolls
• Tempura that’s light, not oil-logged

Note: This is included with the dining package, or you can pay à la carte — either way, it’s worth it.

Cagney’s Steakhouse (Specialty)

Bring your appetite. And stretchy trousers.

This is Norwegian’s signature steakhouse and it lives up to the hype. A beautiful setting, sizzling steaks, and a wine list that might make you weep — with joy or sticker shock depending on your drink of choice.

Standouts:

• Prime ribeye — melt-in-your-mouth good
• Truffle fries — because you’re worth it
• Crab cakes to start (and never share)
• Cheesecake to end. Or start. Or both.

La Cucina (Specialty – Italian)

Because carbs are life

This rustic trattoria-style restaurant offers hearty Italian dishes in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Think garlic, olive oil, wine, repeat.

Favourites:

• Chicken parmigiana the size of your face
• Freshly baked focaccia with olive tapenade
• Lasagna layered to perfection
• Tiramisu that you will consider smuggling back to your cabin

Moderno Churrascaria (Brazilian Steakhouse)

A meat-lover’s paradise, where the skewers keep coming until you beg for mercy (or switch the card to red):

Popular Dishes:

• Picanha – The star of the show: Brazilian-style top sirloin, juicy and carved right at your table. Basically the Beyoncé of the meat rotation.
• Garlic Beef – Beef with enough garlic to ward off vampires and mildly offend your fellow diners.
• Lamb Chops – Tender, flavorful, and likely to make you question why you ever eat lamb any other way.
• Chicken Wrapped in Bacon – Because wrapping anything in bacon makes it fancier.
• Brazilian Sausage (Linguiça) – Spicy, smoky, and oddly addictive.
• Massive Salad Bar – With everything from imported cheeses and charcuterie to couscous and fancy pickles. Technically a “salad bar,” but no one’s there for lettuce.

Los Lobos (Upscale Mexican Restaurant)

Authentic Mexican with a modern twist — and margaritas that may or may not have caused spontaneous salsa dancing.

Popular Dishes:

• Guacamole Made Tableside – Because nothing says “I’m on holiday” like someone hand-smashing your avocado with flair.
• Tacos al Pastor – Pork marinated in chilies and pineapple, served with a side of “I could eat six of these.”
• Queso Fundido – Melted cheese with chorizo. It’s like a hug in a skillet.
• Carne Asada – Grilled steak, perfectly seasoned and usually followed by someone saying “this might be better than the steakhouse.”
• Lobster Tacos – Fancy tacos for people who want seafood and street food at the same time.
• Churros with Dulce de Leche – Crispy, sugary, and the official dessert of “I shouldn’t, but I will.”

While we only visited the buffet a couple of times (quick bites, not really our style), the Norwegian Dawn truly shines with its specialty dining. We indulged at Cagney’s Steakhouse, Moderno Churrascaria, and Los Lobos—all exceptional, with top-tier food and service that made every meal feel special.

We also enjoyed several lovely meals in the Venetian and Aqua main dining rooms, where the service was consistently great and the food never missed the mark.

In short, we can’t fault the food on the Norwegian Dawn—it was a delicious cruise from start to finish (and yes, our jeans are still recovering).

Wine, Cocktails and Caffeine Fixes

• The Cellars – Wine Bar: For when you want to swirl and sniff without pretending to know what you’re doing.
• Atrium Café: Great for speciality coffees and people-watching.
• Mojito Bar & Sugarcane: The best spot to test your tolerance for rum or just enjoy a pre-dinner drink with new cruise friends. 

Nightlife on the Norwegian Dawn: Where Sea Legs Learn to Dance (Alone)

After a long day of sightseeing (or strategically avoiding yet another buffet), the Bliss Ultra Lounge is where the Norwegian Dawn gets its groove on. It’s all neon lights, DJ beats, and a dance floor that gently sways with the sea — or maybe that’s just the mojitos.

Although it’s a great venue with a stylish vibe, comfy booths, and a solid cocktail menu, we couldn’t help but notice… it wasn’t exactly buzzing. In fact, most nights it felt more like a private party we didn’t plan. You’ll have plenty of space to dance — because odds are, you’ll be the only one doing it.

Great for pretending you’re in an exclusive club. Less great if you were hoping for a full dance floor and a conga line of new friends.

Reunion Island

We made a brief stop in Reunion. No excursions booked. We optimistically hopped on a free shuttle. Turns out, this was the highlight. Not much else to see, unless you count the hunt for a decent coffee. We were back on board quicker than you can say “Next port, please!”

Madagascar Mayhem – Tuk-Tuks and Lemurs

Antananarivo: Tuk-Tuk Treats and Beach Bliss

We zipped around town in a tuk-tuk (hang on to your hat—and dignity), then made our way to Remena Beach, which was heaven on earth with zero amenities. The sand? Dreamy. The sea? Bathwater warm. The food? Cooked on an open fire and cost less than your average Pret sandwich.

Seafood platter for Mike, steak for me, wine and beer for both of us—£14 total. You read that right. Fourteen. Pounds. The lack of changing rooms? Let’s call it “rustic charm.”

Please click on the following link for further details Madagascar

Nosy Be: Lemurs and Leaks

Our Viator-booked excursion to Lokobe National Park was a jungle adventure. First, a mini bus ride. Then, into “boats” that felt more like bathtubs with attitude. We rowed, we bailed out water, we laughed nervously. It was all worth it.

At the park, lemurs literally came to us and nibbled from our hands. A David Attenborough moment, minus the soothing narration. Lunch followed—seafood, rice, potatoes, fruit—and it was incredible. An unforgettable day, wet socks and all.

Please click on the following link for further details Madagascar

Port Elizabeth – Birthday Bash on a Budget

My birthday (age redacted) was spent in Port Elizabeth, where we’d made some lovely cruise friends. We dined and drank ourselves merry at Barney’s Steakhouse—steaks, wine, cider, beer, and yes, even shots. Total bill? £25 per couple. We’re still not over it.

The next day’s safari at Kragga Park was lovely… until we saw the cheetahs behind fences. It slightly dampened the “wild” part of the wildlife, but hey—lions and zebras still roamed freely, so the Instagram quota was fulfilled.

Please click on the following link for further information Port Elizabeth (Gqeberha)

Mossel Bay – Seals, Surprises, and Beach Beers

We’d planned a Seal Island trip, but the original boat had a mechanical mishap. No worries—we found a friendly local with a functioning boat and a “why not?” attitude. £35 per couple and we were seal-spotting like pros.

Back on land, we celebrated with beachside drinks in the sun. 

Please click on following link for further details Mossel Bay

Cape Town – The Grand Finale

We finally reached Cape Town — and what better way to celebrate than with… another boat ride? A 90-minute cruise gave us epic views of Table Mountain (and a light soaking from the ocean).

We followed it up with a city tour, including the iconic Table Mountain cable car — where the scenery was stunning and the altitude mildly concerning.

Next stop: Aquila Game Reserve, where we spotted lions, elephants, and a giraffe that looked personally offended by our presence.

But the true stars of the show? The penguins at Boulders Bay. Tiny, tuxedoed, and full of attitude — we could’ve watched them waddle for hours.

We wrapped things up with a drive along the breathtaking Chapman’s Peak and a wander around the V&A Waterfront and had a cocktail admiring the view.

Please click on the following link for further information regarding Cape Town

Cruise Summary: Ports, Penguins & People Who Made It All Worth It

Our African cruise aboard the Norwegian Dawn didn’t exactly go as planned — in fact, the itinerary went through more changes than a West End costume department. Ports vanished, sea days multiplied, and compensation was… theoretical.

But despite the “Surprise! You’re at sea again!” moments, the trip was filled with incredible highlights:

• Wading with lemurs in Madagascar
• Spotting wildlife at Aquila Game Reserve
• Marveling at Table Mountain (from every possible angle — boat, cable car, and cocktail bar)
• Being utterly charmed by the penguins at Boulders Beach

From beaches to buffets, safari drives to seal sightings, the destinations delivered.

But the true magic of the cruise? The people we met along the way.
We shared meals, mishaps, taxis, tuk-tuks, and toasts — and somewhere between the dodgy Wi-Fi and overcooked buffets, we found genuine friendship. The laughter, shared adventures, and collective head-shaking at Norwegian’s scheduling skills turned a bumpy ride into a brilliant one.

So yes, the itinerary was a bit of a wild card…
But thanks to our fellow cruisers, it was one of the best hands we’ve ever been dealt.

Accommodation in Mauritius

Ambre Hotel – Adults Only

Let me begin by saying: if we could have packed Ambre Hotel into our suitcase and taken it with us, we would have. Two nights here simply weren’t enough — and yes, we’re still mourning the lost opportunity to extend our stay in paradise.

Location, Location, Tropical Location

Ambre Adults Only Resort is located on the east coast of Mauritius, in the Belle Mare region — and “belle” really is the right word. The resort hugs a stunning, crescent-shaped white sand beach that seems to stretch for miles, kissed by the warm turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.

You know those photoshopped travel brochures? This wasn’t one of them. The water was genuinely that blue. The sand? Like walking on sifted flour. And the breeze? Just the right amount to make your sundowner taste better.

The Beach: Where Stress Goes to Die

The water is shallow and calm — perfect for swimming, floating, or simply wading out like a character in a dreamy film montage. You’ll find plenty of space, and the hotel staff are never far off with another cold drink or cheeky smile.

If your version of exercise includes lifting a cocktail glass repeatedly, you’re in the right place.

Cocktails

Now let’s talk about one of the highlights — the all-inclusive bar. We tested it thoroughly (for research purposes, of course), and we’re pleased to report it’s brilliant.

You name it, they pour it:

• Tropical rum punches served in a coconut
• Classic mojitos with fresh mint and attitude
• Local beer that’s as refreshing as a dip in the pool
• A daily cocktail special that became our new favourite… daily

The bar by the beach was our evening ritual: toes in the sand, drink in hand, and no idea what day it was. Just how we like it.

Dining: More Than Just a Pretty Buffet

Ambre offers multiple dining experiences, and we tried our best to sample them all in our limited time (a noble effort, we must say).

Indigo Buffet Restaurant

This is the main hub — and it’s not your average buffet. Think show cooking stations, freshly grilled fish, gorgeous curries, and salads that actually make you excited. Breakfast was an international affair: fresh fruit, pastries, omelettes cooked to order, and a coffee machine that understood us better than most people do.

Dolce Vita

A romantic à la carte Italian restaurant where the pasta was as fresh as the sea breeze. We recommend the seafood linguine — even me (Debbie), who usually avoids anything that swam, cleaned my plate.

La Plage

Beachfront dining in the most literal sense. Tables in the sand, candles flickering, waves gently lapping nearby. It’s like being in a luxury holiday ad, only you don’t have to pretend you’re enjoying it for the camera.

Tip: Book a table here at sunset. You’ll thank us later.

Rooms: Spacious, Serene, and Stylish

Our room was bright and airy with beach-chic décor, a massive bed, and a balcony that gave us front-row seats to sunrise each morning. We spent more time out there than we expected, wine in hand, listening to the gentle rustle of palm trees.

The shower was walk-in and powerful enough to remove both sunscreen and guilt from overindulging at dinner.

Travel Tips

• The local currency is the Mauritian Rupee (MUR).
• Credit and debit cards are widely accepted at hotels, larger restaurants, and shops, but it’s wise to carry some cash for local markets, taxis, and smaller eateries.
• ATMs are widely available, especially in tourist areas.
• Avoid exchanging money at the airport for the best rates—use banks or authorized exchange bureaus instead.

🛡️ 2. Safety First

• Mauritius is generally safe and welcoming, with a low crime rate.
• Take standard precautions: don’t flash valuables, lock your belongings, and use hotel safes.
• Avoid walking alone on quiet beaches at night, just as you would anywhere else.
• Tap water is technically safe in many areas, but bottled water is recommended, especially for sensitive stomachs.

🗣️ 3. Language & Communication

• English is the official language, and French is widely spoken.
• You’ll also hear Mauritian Creole in daily conversation.
• Most tourist-facing staff speak good English, so communication is rarely an issue.

🚗 4. Getting Around

• Taxis are plentiful but can be pricey—always agree on a fare beforehand, as meters are not commonly used.
• Renting a car is a great way to explore—remember, they drive on the left!
• Alternatively, book tours or private drivers for comfort and local insights.

🌴 5. Climate & Clothing

• Mauritius is warm year-round. Pack light, breathable clothing, a hat, and plenty of sunscreen.
• Bring a light jacket or shawl for cooler evenings or overly enthusiastic air conditioning.
• When visiting temples, wear modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees.

🦟 6. Health & Bugs

• No vaccines are required, but it’s wise to be up to date on routine travel immunizations.
• Mosquito repellent is a must—especially inland or during evening hours.
• Pharmacies are well-stocked, and pharmacists speak English and are very helpful.

💸 7. Tipping Etiquette

• Tipping isn’t required, but it’s a lovely gesture for good service—around 10% in restaurants is appreciated.
• Small tips for hotel staff, tour guides, and drivers are also welcome.

🙏 8. Local Etiquette & Culture

• Mauritius is a diverse and multicultural island—home to Hindu, Muslim, Christian, and Creole communities.
• Be respectful at religious sites: remove shoes and avoid beachwear or revealing clothing.
• A friendly “hello” and smile go a long way—Mauritians are known for their warmth.

📱 9. SIM Cards & Internet

• Local SIM cards are affordable and available at the airport or in town. Providers include Emtel, MyT, and MTML.
• Most hotels and resorts offer free Wi-Fi, though the signal may vary depending on location.

🌺 10. Enjoy the Island Vibe

You’re in paradise. Act accordingly 😎

Things to do

1. Relax on the Beaches

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  Belle Mare, Flic en Flac, Le Morne, and Trou aux Biches are some of the most stunning beaches.

  
  


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  Perfect for sunbathing, swimming, or sipping cocktails while pretending you’re not checking emails (we won’t tell).

  
  

🛥️ 2. Catamaran Cruises & Island Hopping

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  Take a catamaran to Île aux Cerfs, a picture-perfect island with white sand beaches and turquoise water.

  
  


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  Many tours include snorkeling, BBQ lunch, and sometimes a few rum punches (because, island life).

  
  

🏞️ 3. Black River Gorges National Park

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  A nature lover’s paradise. Go hiking, spot rare birds like the pink pigeon, and enjoy epic views from Alexandra Falls Viewpoint.

  
  


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  Pack water and snacks. Or a picnic if you want to feel extra wholesome.

  
  

🌋 4. Chamarel Seven Coloured Earth & Waterfall

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  A bizarre but beautiful natural phenomenon—layers of sand in seven different colors!

  
  


• 
  

  Combine with a visit to Chamarel Waterfall, one of the tallest in Mauritius.

  
  

🌺 5. Pamplemousses Botanical Garden

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  Home to giant water lilies, rare plants, and an Instagram-worthy stroll through tropical bliss.

  
  


• 
  

  Bonus: You’ll feel very cultured.

  
  

🐬 6. Swim with Dolphins (Ethically)

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  Go early morning on a guided tour off the west coast (Tamarin Bay).

  
  


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  Choose ethical operators that follow proper wildlife guidelines (dolphins deserve space too!).

  
  

🐢 7. Visit La Vanille Nature Park

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  See giant tortoises, crocodiles, lemurs, and more.

  
  


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  Great for animal lovers or anyone who wants to feel like they’re in a mini Jurassic Park (without the running).

  
  

🏯 8. Explore Grand Bassin (Ganga Talao)

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  A sacred Hindu lake with a giant statue of Lord Shiva and beautiful temples.

  
  


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  Serene and spiritual—even the monkeys seem to meditate here (when they’re not stealing fruit).

  
  

🐠 9. Snorkeling and Diving

• 
  

  Top spots include Blue Bay Marine Park, Coin de Mire, and Île aux Cerfs.

  
  


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  Expect coral reefs, tropical fish, and clear water so beautiful you’ll forget how to speak.

  
  

🛍️ 10. Shop at Port Louis Central Market

• 
  

  The capital’s bustling market is a great place to buy spices, souvenirs, textiles, and weirdly addictive Mauritian snacks.

  
  


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  Haggle a little—but nicely.

  
  

🧘 11. Spa Day or Couples Massage

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  Many resorts offer luxury spa treatments. Do it. You deserve it. You’re on holiday.

  
  

🍛 12. Try the Local Food

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  Sample dholl puri, rougaille, gateaux piments, and fresh seafood.

  
  


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  Visit a beachside stall or local restaurant for the real deal (and pack stretchy clothes).

  
  

⛳ 13. Tee Off on a Scenic Golf Course

• 
  

  If you’re into golf, Mauritius has some world-class courses—like Ile aux Cerfs Golf Club, which is basically golfing in paradise.

  
  

🧭 14. Drive the Coastal Roads

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  Rent a car and take a scenic drive around the island—you’ll find hidden coves, charming villages, and plenty of viewpoints for those “we should frame this” photos.

  
  

Things run on island time—so take a deep breath, slow down, and relax.

Don’t over-plan; leave room for spontaneous beach days, scenic drives, and sunset cocktails.

Weather

Seal Island

Ah, Mossel Bay. The name alone evokes images of quaint harbours, sea breezes, and those adorable seals we’d booked to see months in advance. It was supposed to be a smooth operation: hop off the cruise ship via tender, waltz into the office of Romonza Boat Trips, and glide over the ocean like David Attenborough on holiday. But as we soon discovered… plans are just suggestions the universe politely ignores.

We arrived bright-eyed and full of maritime enthusiasm. But as we approached the Romonza office, something felt off. Namely: the complete absence of any human life. No staff, no signs, not even a sleepy cat on a windowsill. Just us and a closed door.

Naturally, we did what any modern traveller would do in such a crisis — we whipped out our phones and called them. Several times. Which was mostly just an exercise in listening to our own ringtones.

Still determined, we headed to the harbour to see if we could find their boat — and lo and behold, there it was, the good ship Romonza, looking sadly still and unmistakably broken. Our suspicions were confirmed by a nearby man on another boat, who said (and I quote): “Yeah, that one’s been busted for days.”

Ah, the joys of proactive communication.

But all was not lost! The helpful stranger-slash-boat-operator offered to take us to Seal Island himself. At £20 a head, it felt like a bargain — or at least, a slightly risky but adventurous bargain. While we waited for the rest of his mystery crew to materialise, we were joined by fellow shipmates arriving off the tender. Apparently, this was becoming the unofficial official seal tour.

At around 9:30 AM, the sun hadn’t quite committed to its duties, and the wind had clearly overachieved. But as we approached Seal Island, all complaints were silenced. There they were — thousands of seals, basking, barking, and bouncing in the waves. Many had pups with them, as January is prime seal-maternity ward season. It was magical… and very, very smelly. But mostly magical.

Romonza boat tours did apologise and refund our monies.

Of course, we only had mobile phones to capture the moment, which was a bit like trying to film a BBC wildlife documentary with a potato. Still, we made do with zoomed-in blur and artistic blurs we’d later call “seal-shaped impressions.”

Kaai 4 Braai Beach Bar

Once back on land, we wandered the harbour briefly, but unless you have a burning interest in parked boats and curious gulls, there wasn’t much to see. That’s when we discovered Kaai 4 Braai, a beach bar so delightful it deserves its own postcard. Nestled on the water’s edge, with open flames grilling food and the sun finally pulling its weight, we had found paradise.

Even better? The cruise ship had run out of cider (a cruel twist of fate), but Kaai 4 Braai had plenty — cold, refreshing, and gloriously affordable thanks to South African prices. We basked in the sunshine, drank cider, watched the waves, and laughed more than should be legally allowed.

Some of us indulged in the food, cooked over open fire with delicious aromas wafting by. The presentation? Top-notch. The value? Ridiculously good. The vibe? Immaculate.

As more people from the ship trickled in, it became a full-blown social event — like a floating pub relocated to land for a few sunny hours. Eventually, the time came to catch the tender boat back, slightly sun-kissed and thoroughly satisfied.

So no, our original Seal Island tour didn’t go as planned. But in the end, we got the seals, we got the cider, and we got a story far better than anything we could’ve booked in advance.

Moral of the story? Always expect the unexpected… and never underestimate the power of a beach bar.

Travel Tips

💰 Currency & Money Matters

• Local currency: South African Rand (ZAR or R). Notes come in denominations of R10, R20, R50, R100, and R200.
• Exchange rate: As of early 2025, £1 = approximately R23 (but rates fluctuate, so check before you travel).
• Cards vs Cash: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted, even at smaller restaurants and shops. Visa and Mastercard are most commonly used.
• ATMs: Easily found in town and at major shopping centres, but use those in secure locations (inside malls or banks).
• Tipping: Tipping is expected — 10–15% at restaurants, R5–R10 for petrol attendants or car guards, and around R20 for local tour guides.

🦺 Safety Tips

Mossel Bay is generally considered one of the safer towns along the Garden Route, but here are a few smart tips:

• Stay aware: Stick to well-lit and busier areas, especially at night. Don’t flash valuables or large amounts of cash.
• Use common sense: Avoid walking alone in quiet areas after dark.
• Lock your belongings: Whether you’re in a car or accommodation, always lock doors and keep valuables out of sight.
• Beach safety: Swim at designated beaches with lifeguards. The Indian Ocean can have strong currents — look out for flags and signs.
• Scams/Street hustlers: Rare in Mossel Bay, but be polite and firm if someone offers unsolicited “help” or tries to sell you something aggressively.

🚤 Local Transport & Getting Around

• On foot: The harbour and beachfront area is very walkable.
• Uber/Bolt: Available in larger cities, but less common here. Local taxis (not metered) are available but often need to be pre-arranged.
• Car hire: If you’re planning to explore beyond Mossel Bay (e.g., to Oudtshoorn or Knysna), hiring a car is a great idea. Roads are generally in good condition.

🐬 What to Do

• Seal Island Tour: Book with a reputable operator (and maybe double-check the boat is operational 😅).
• Diaz Museum Complex: Learn about early Portuguese explorers and see a life-size replica of Bartholomeu Dias’ ship.
• Santos Beach: Great for a swim or sunbathe — it’s Blue Flag certified.
• Kaai 4 Braai: A must-visit beach bar for local food, cold drinks, and a killer view.
• Shark Cage Diving: For the brave — done from nearby towns, but Mossel Bay has a few operators.

🧥 Weather Watch

• Summer (Dec–Feb): Warm and sunny — perfect beach weather. Pack sunscreen and a hat.
• Winter (Jun–Aug): Mild with occasional rain. A light jacket will do.
• Wind: Mossel Bay can get breezy, especially in the mornings, so bring a windbreaker for boat trips.

🎁 Local Souvenirs

• Handcrafted curios, beadwork, local wines, biltong (South African dried meat), and aloe-based skincare products are all good buys.

👋 Final Tip

South Africans are friendly and welcoming, especially in Mossel Bay. A smile and a friendly greeting go a long way!

Weather

Barney’s Tavern

We arrived in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, aboard the Norwegian Dawn cruise ship at around 7pm—perfect timing for a birthday dinner! It was my birthday (Debbie), and our group of six (three couples) had already booked a table at Barney’s Tavern, a well-known beachfront restaurant.

We had been advised not to walk around the port area at night and to rely on Uber or pre-arranged tours. Taking that advice to heart, we hopped in a quick, easy Uber and were soon headed for what turned out to be a very memorable evening.

Barney’s Tavern is a much-loved local gem located right on Hobie Beach, along Port Elizabeth’s picturesque Marine Drive. With balcony seating overlooking the beach and Indian Ocean, it’s a spot that instantly sets the mood for a relaxed, fun evening.

When we arrived, the place was buzzing—Buy-One-Get-One-Free Burger Night had drawn quite the crowd, and the vibe was vibrant and welcoming. The live DJ added to the atmosphere, and the staff, despite the busy scene, were attentive and friendly.

One of the main reasons we chose Barney’s is its diverse and extensive menu, which offered something for everyone in our group. Here’s a taste of what they serve:

• Burgers – from classic beef to chicken, veggie, and fully loaded gourmet options
• Seafood – including fresh fish, calamari, prawns, and seafood platters
• Steaks and grills – ribeye, T-bone, ribs, and combo platters
• Tapas and starters – great for sharing over drinks
• Pizzas – thin-crust, wood-fired, with plenty of topping options
• Salads – fresh and generously portioned, ideal for lighter appetites

Of course, we tried to sample a bit of everything… which resulted in a table completely covered in food. We underestimated the portion sizes (rookie mistake), and despite our best efforts, we simply couldn’t finish it all. That said, it was all absolutely delicious.

The cocktails at Barney’s are also worth raving about. These aren’t your average pre-mixed drinks—they’re freshly made to order, using real fruit, herbs, and quality spirits. Each drink felt like it had been made just for us, with great attention to detail. From classic mojitos and margaritas to house specials, every sip was a treat.

And let’s not forget the “Snail Trail”, a somewhat infamous local cocktail presented to me for my birthday: six different spirits around the edge of a tray, with all six combined into a seventh central shot. We all had a try… and we all agreed it was best left unfinished. Strong doesn’t even begin to cover it.

After dinner, we moved to the balcony to enjoy a few more drinks under the stars, listening to the music and taking in the view. The whole experience was made even better when the bill arrived—just £30 per couple for all that food and drink. Incredible value.

Kragga Kamma Game Reserve

The next morning, it was time for a change of pace. We met up with one of the other couples and set off to Kragga Kamma Game Reserve, just a short 20–25-minute drive from the port.

Kragga Kamma is a privately owned wildlife reserve, and while it may not be as large as Kruger or Addo, it offers a surprisingly rich safari experience in a compact, accessible format. The reserve spans 216 hectares (530 acres) and features a beautiful blend of coastal forest, grassy plains, and savannah-like open areas.

I’m a celebrity get me out of here.

We booked our tickets online for £18 each and hopped in an Uber. After a short wait, we were able to explore the reserve’s raised wooden walkways, which offer scenic views and a chance to spot monkeys and birds—although the monkeys decided to hide during our visit.

The real magic happened once we boarded our open-sided safari vehicle for a 90-minute guided tour. Our guide was fantastic—knowledgeable, funny, and clearly passionate about the animals and the conservation work being done at the reserve.

During the tour, we saw:

• Giraffes gracefully walking through the grasslands
• Zebras hanging out in the sun
• Ostriches, impalas, buffalos, and wildebeest
• A variety of bird species perched and in flight
• Rhinos, which were incredibly impressive up close
• And a pair of cheetahs, visible behind a protective fence (for understandable reasons)

Kragga Kamma isn’t just about ticking animals off a list—it’s about getting close to nature in a peaceful, non-commercial way. You feel connected to the environment and the animals, all while being just a short drive from the city. It’s an ideal outing for cruise visitors or anyone short on time who still wants a real safari experience.

In just 24 hours, Port Elizabeth gave us two amazing and completely different experiences: a lively birthday celebration with fresh cocktails and ocean views, and a calm, scenic day in the South African bush, surrounded by incredible wildlife.

Barney’s Tavern delivered great food, even better drinks, and a party atmosphere right on the beach. Kragga Kamma Game Reserve gave us giraffes, rhinos, and a fresh appreciation for South Africa’s natural beauty—all without breaking the bank.

Would we go back? Definitely. Though next time, we might split a burger three ways… and maybe just toast with wine instead of taking on the Snail Trail again!

Travel Tips

1. Stay Street Smart

• Port Elizabeth is generally friendly, but like many cities, some areas are safer than others.
• Avoid walking alone or at night, especially near the port. Stick to well-lit, busy areas.
• Use Uber or organised tours for transportation, and avoid displaying valuables.

2. Use Uber or Registered Transport

• Uber is widely available, reliable, and considered safe.
• If you choose a taxi, make sure it’s registered and agree on the fare in advance.

3. Currency – South African Rand (ZAR)

• The local currency is the South African Rand (R or ZAR).
• Credit/debit cards are accepted in most places, but carry a small amount of cash for markets and tips.
• ATMs are easy to find at shopping centres and fuel stations.

4. Mobile Phones & Internet

• Avoid high roaming charges by using one of these options:
  • Buy a local SIM card (Vodacom, MTN, Telkom).
  • Use free Wi-Fi in restaurants, cafés, and malls.
  • Activate an international roaming plan with your provider.
• WhatsApp is the most commonly used communication app.

5. Emergency Numbers

• Police: 10111
• Ambulance/Fire: 10177
• Mobile emergency (any service): 112
• Keep your cruise ship or hotel details handy in case of an emergency.

6. Plug Type & Voltage

• South Africa uses plug type M (three round pins in a triangular formation).
• Voltage: 230V, Frequency: 50Hz.
• A universal travel adapter with type M support is recommended.

7. Book Excursions Independently for Value

• Attractions like Kragga Kamma Game Reserve and Addo Elephant Park are affordable and easily accessible without a cruise tour.
• Booking online in advance can help secure the best time and price.

8. Dining Out? Know Where to Go

• Popular beachfront spots include Barney’s Tavern, Something Good Roadhouse, and Bocadillos.
• Great food, views, and value. Reserve in advance during peak times.

9. Pack for All Seasons

• Port Elizabeth has a mild climate, but weather can change quickly.
• Pack layers, a light jacket, sun protection, and comfy walking shoes.

10. Wildlife Etiquette

• At reserves like Kragga Kamma, respect the animals: stay quiet, don’t feed or approach them, and follow all guide instructions.

11. Time Management for Cruise Passengers

• Always return to your ship at least an hour before final boarding time.
• Account for traffic, waiting times, and travel distance when planning your return.

12. Learn a Few Local Words

• English is widely spoken, but locals appreciate a few words of local language:
  • Molo – Hello (isiXhosa)
  • Dankie – Thank you (Afrikaans)
  • Lekker – Great/fun (Afrikaans slang)

13. Support Local

• Buy souvenirs from local markets and vendors to support the local community.
• Look for hand-crafted items like beadwork, wood carvings, textiles, and jewellery.

Things to do

1. Kragga Kamma Game Reserve

• A compact but wildlife-rich game park, just 30 minutes from the city.
• Spot rhinos, giraffes, zebras, buffalo, ostriches, cheetahs (in a protected area), and more.
• Self-drive or take a guided safari tour.
• Affordable, easy day trip for cruise passengers.

2. Addo Elephant National Park

• About an hour’s drive from Port Elizabeth.
• Home to over 600 elephants, lions, buffalo, hyenas, antelope, and more.
• Ideal for those looking for a fuller, more expansive safari experience.

3. The Boardwalk

• A stylish waterfront area with shops, restaurants, a casino, and a small lake.
• Good for a relaxing afternoon or evening.
• Family-friendly with arcades, mini-golf, and entertainment.

4. King’s Beach & Hobie Beach

• Gorgeous sandy beaches ideal for sunbathing, swimming, and beach walks.
• Hobie Beach is popular for water sports and has lifeguards on duty.
• Look out for local surfers and beach volleyball games.

5. Route 67

• A public art trail through the city featuring 67 pieces celebrating Nelson Mandela’s 67 years of public service.
• Combines art, history, and South African heritage in one walkable route.
• Includes murals, sculptures, mosaics, and installations.

6. Ocean Safari / Boat Cruises

• Take a marine safari to spot dolphins, seals, penguins, and seasonal whales.
• Tours often leave from the harbour or beachfront areas.
• A great way to experience the marine biodiversity of Algoa Bay.

7. Donkin Reserve

• Historic park in the city centre offering views of the city and harbour.
• Features a lighthouse, pyramid monument, and part of the Route 67 trail.
• A good place for photos and a quick local history lesson.

8. SANCCOB Penguin Rehabilitation Centre

• Located just outside the city in Cape Recife.
• See rescued and rehabilitated penguins and learn about conservation efforts.
• Ideal for animal lovers and families.

9. Visit Local Markets

• The Valley Market or Bay Market offer local crafts, food, and live music.
• Great places to pick up handmade souvenirs, clothing, and local eats.

10. Try Local Food & Wine

• Sample South African cuisine like bobotie, biltong, and peri-peri chicken.
• Many restaurants feature local wines from nearby regions like Stellenbosch and Robertson.
• Barney’s Tavern is a beachfront favourite with a great menu and cocktails.

11. South End Museum

• Tells the story of the multicultural South End neighbourhood before apartheid’s forced removals.
• Insightful and emotional look at local history.

12. Cape Recife Nature Reserve

• Stunning natural reserve with beaches, rocky shores, and an old lighthouse.
• Great for birdwatching, nature walks, and photography.
• Entry fee applies and closed shoes are recommended.

Weather

Antananarivo

We had booked our excursion through MadaAssist at a cost of £9 each therefore did not know what to expect.

Tuk Tuk Ride

Antananarivo — the capital of Madagascar, where tuk-tuks bounce like kangaroos, chickens and traffic share the same road rules (i.e., none), and adventure comes with a solid dose of guesswork. We had grand plans: an all-day tuk-tuk ride with a “choose-your-own-itinerary” vibe. Spoiler alert: the only thing we chose was the duration of our confusion.

Armed with Google Translate and optimism, we asked our driver (in English-to-French via our phones), “Can you show us places you think we’ll like?” His response was a confident nod, a smile, and then several hours of… driving. Through neighborhoods, markets, side streets, and what may have been someone’s driveway. It was like a real-time documentary called “Locals: Unfiltered”. Fascinating? Yes. Action-packed? Not exactly.

There were no stops. Not a single “Would you like to get out here?” Just hours of watching everyday Malagasy life go by — people cooking on open fires, kids playing in dust patches, and a strong contender for World’s Busiest Chicken crossing the road (spoiler: he made it). We weren’t bored. But we also weren’t entirely sure what the plan was.

Remana Beach

Eventually, taking destiny into our own hands (and back into Google Translate), we requested: “Remana Beach, please.” And just like that, the tuk-tuk turned hero.

Remana Beach was exactly what we’d hoped for — soft sand, crystal-clear water, and hardly another tourist in sight. A slice of paradise… with one small twist: the restaurant we chose had no toilet. None. Fortunately, we’d made a pit stop en route. Crisis narrowly avoided.

As for the restaurant, it was rustic with a capital R, but charming. We ordered a seafood platter and a steak. Then we waited. And waited. And waited. Turns out, our meal was being cooked on an actual open fire out the back, like something out of a camping episode of MasterChef: Survival Edition. But honestly? Totally worth it.

The wine? Surprisingly decent for a beach shack. The food? Fresh, beautifully cooked, and so attractively plated that we briefly considered taking up food photography. The bill? An eye-watering, jaw-dropping, are-you-sure-this-is-right £14 for the entire meal and drinks. For context, that’s what one sad airport sandwich costs in the UK.

We dipped in the sea between sips of wine and bites of grilled prawns, and all was well in the world. Eventually, full and salty, we climbed back into our trusty tuk-tuk and headed for the ship — ready for our next stop: Nosy Be.

Moral of the story? Sometimes the best days are the ones that go a little sideways. Especially when they end with seafood, sandy toes, and wine you didn’t have to remortgage your house for.

Nosy Be

Lokobe Nature Reserve

Madagascar’s answer to a tropical paradise, where the lemurs are friendlier than your neighbour’s cat and the canoes come with a complimentary upper-body workout.

Our journey began as we disembarked from our cruise ship, stepping into a bustling port teeming with enthusiastic locals eager to offer excursions. It felt like being the last cookie at a bake sale—everyone wanted a piece of us.

After navigating through a sea of persuasive tour operators, we finally located our designated guide. We waited briefly for four fellow adventurers to join us, during which time we practiced our polite decline skills with other eager vendors.

Our chariot—a minibus with character—whisked us away through the scenic landscapes of Nosy Be. Our guide, a fountain of knowledge, shared insights about the island’s flora, fauna, and the occasional anecdote that may or may not have been embellished for dramatic effect.

Upon arrival at the edge of the Lokobe Nature Reserve, we were introduced to our next mode of transport: traditional dugout canoes. These charming vessels required us to paddle and occasionally bail out water, adding an unexpected arm workout to our itinerary.

Inside the reserve, we were greeted by guides with eyes sharper than a hawk’s. They pointed out lemurs leaping from trees, chameleons blending into leaves, and snakes that, thankfully, were more interested in sunbathing than us. Holding a snake was a highlight—nothing says “vacation” like a reptile draped over your shoulders.

The terrain was rugged, and my choice of white trainers quickly proved to be a rookie mistake. They now carry the earthy hues of Madagascar—a fashionable souvenir, if you ask me.

One of the most enchanting moments was interacting with the black lemurs, the reserve’s iconic residents. These curious creatures, known for their expressive eyes and playful antics, approached us with a mix of caution and curiosity. With guidance from our knowledgeable guides, we offered them pieces of banana, which they accepted delicately from our hands. Feeling their tiny fingers grasp the fruit was both surreal and heartwarming—a true highlight of the trip.

Lokobe Nature Reserve is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an impressive array of flora and fauna. As we ventured deeper into the forest, our guides pointed out:

• Nosy Be Panther Chameleons: These vibrant reptiles showcased their color-changing abilities, blending seamlessly with the foliage.
• Leaf-Tailed Geckos: Masters of camouflage, these geckos were nearly indistinguishable from the tree bark they clung to.
• Boas and Tree Snakes: Non-venomous and surprisingly docile, these snakes added an element of excitement to our trek.
• Frogs and Geckos: Their vivid colors and unique calls added to the symphony of the forest.
• Endemic Birds: From the Madagascar pygmy kingfisher to various vangas, bird enthusiasts would find plenty to admire.

After our trek, we returned to our canoes, which were now ingeniously tied together and towed by a motorised boat. Picture a conga line of canoes gliding through the water—a sight as amusing as it was unique.

Our adventure concluded with a meal at a quaint local restaurant. The spread included potatoes, rice, bread, seafood, chicken, and fruit. It was simple, hearty, and the perfect end to our escapade.

On our way back to the ship, we stopped at a local market, immersing ourselves in the vibrant culture and picking up a few souvenirs to commemorate our unforgettable day.

In summary, our £60 Viator tour to Lokobe Reserve was a delightful blend of adventure, nature, and cultural immersion. Just remember to wear appropriate footwear and be prepared for a day full of surprises and smiles.

The flora was equally captivating, with towering canarium trees, strangler figs, and a variety of orchids and ferns thriving in the humid jungle air. Many of these plants have medicinal properties and are used by local communities, adding a layer of cultural significance to the natural beauty.

Our day at Lokobe Nature Reserve was a harmonious blend of adventure, education, and cultural immersion. From paddling through mangroves to sharing a meal with locals, every moment was a testament to the rich tapestry of life in Madagascar. If you ever find yourself in Nosy Be, don’t miss the opportunity to experience this natural wonder—just remember to leave the white trainers at home.

Travel Tips

Traveling to Madagascar offers an unparalleled experience with its unique biodiversity and vibrant culture. However, to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip, consider the following tips:

Safety and Security

• Stay Vigilant: Petty crimes like pickpocketing are common, especially in urban areas such as Antananarivo. Be cautious in crowded places like markets and bus terminals.
• Avoid Night Travel: Traveling after dark increases the risk of encountering armed bandits, particularly on main highways.
• Use Reputable Services: Only book tours and transportation through reputable agencies or hotel recommendations to avoid scams.
• Secure Your Belongings: Keep valuables out of sight, and avoid displaying signs of wealth. Use a money belt or neck wallet for important documents and cash.

Transportation Tips

• Road Conditions: Many roads are in poor condition, and driving habits can be unpredictable. If you choose to drive, ensure you have an international driving permit and consider hiring a local driver.
• Public Transport Caution: Avoid using “taxi-brousse” (bush taxis) as they are often overcrowded and involved in accidents.
• Ferry Safety: If traveling by ferry, ensure the vessel is not overcrowded and has appropriate safety equipment. Avoid sea travel during bad weather conditions.

Health Precautions

• Vaccinations: Consult with a healthcare provider at least 6 weeks before travel to receive recommended vaccinations, including those for malaria and dengue.
• Water Safety: Tap water is unsafe to drink. Use bottled or purified water, and avoid ice in drinks.
• Medical Facilities: Healthcare services are limited outside major cities. Ensure your travel insurance covers medical evacuation.
• Emergency Numbers: Save key contacts: Police – 117, Fire Department – 118.

Wildlife and Nature

• Respect Wildlife: While lemurs and other animals may appear friendly, avoid feeding or touching them to prevent potential diseases like rabies.
• Insect Precautions: Wear protective clothing and use insect repellent to guard against bites from mosquitoes and other insects.
• Swimming Safety: Avoid swimming in freshwater bodies to prevent infections like schistosomiasis. Stick to designated swimming areas and heed local advice.

Money and Scams

• Currency: Carry enough cash, especially in rural areas where ATMs may be scarce. Use credit cards only at reputable establishments.
• Avoid Scams: Be cautious of individuals posing as guides or officials. Always verify credentials and avoid unsolicited offers.

Cultural Etiquette

• Local Taboos (Fady): Certain regions have specific taboos. Consult with local guides to ensure respectful behavior.
• Identification: Always carry your passport, as police may conduct random ID checks.

By staying informed and cautious, you can enjoy the rich experiences Madagascar has to offer while ensuring your safety and well-being

Things to do

1. Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
Explore dramatic limestone formations and encounter various endemic species in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2. Avenue of the Baobabs
Visit this iconic stretch near Morondava, lined with ancient baobab trees, especially picturesque at sunrise and sunset.

3. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
Discover lush rainforests teeming with biodiversity, including the largest lemur species, the indri.

4. Nosy Be
Enjoy beach activities, snorkeling, and diving in this island off Madagascar’s northwest coast, known for its clear waters and coral reefs.

5. Île Sainte-Marie (Nosy Boraha)
Relax on pristine beaches, explore historical sites, and partake in seasonal whale watching on this tranquil east coast island.

6. Isalo National Park
Trek through sandstone formations, canyons, and natural pools, observing lemurs and unique landscapes.

7. Antananarivo
Experience the capital’s rich history and culture by exploring royal palaces, bustling markets, and museums.

8. Ranomafana National Park
Visit this rainforest reserve, home to several lemur species, including the rare golden bamboo lemur.

9. Ankarana National Park
Explore limestone formations, caves, and underground rivers, and observe various lemur species and reptiles.

10. Ifaty
Relax on sandy beaches and explore coral reefs in this southwest coastal area, ideal for snorkeling and diving.

11. Ramena Beach
Located approximately 18 kilometers from Diego Suarez, Ramena Beach is a serene coastal destination known for its soft white sands and calm, shallow waters.

12. Lokobe Nature Reserve
Situated on Nosy Be island, Lokobe Nature Reserve is the last remaining primary forest in the region. Accessible only by traditional canoe.

Weather

Marrakech is the fourth largest city in Morocco. It is also home to the Atlas Mountains. Marrakech consists of an old and new town.

Marrakech is one of the most chaotic, colourful and entertaining places we’ve ever visited. Imagine somebody took an all inclusive hotel, a giant maze, a motorbike rally and a spice market… then threw them all together in 35-degree heat.

And somehow, it works beautifully.

From the moment we landed, Marrakech felt exciting. Slightly overwhelming… but exciting.

Travel to Marrakech

We flew from Manchester Airport with Ryanair and managed to get flights for around £120 return including priority boarding and a 10kg case, which in today’s world feels like we’d committed some kind of airline fraud. We booked through https://www.skyscanner.net.

Because we live in Leeds, we decided to fly back into Leeds Bradford Airport instead of Manchester. This seemed like a smart idea at the time. We appreciated it greatly when we were exhausted, slightly dehydrated and mentally unable to face the M62.

Marrakech airport

Getting through Marrakech Airport was surprisingly easy. Passport control moved quicker than expected and within no time we were outside expecting to see our transfer driver proudly holding a sign with our name on it like in the movies.

He was not there.

Neither was anybody else remotely interested in helping us.

The airport WiFi was about as reliable as British summer weather, so after standing around for 40 minutes slowly melting in the heat and questioning our life choices, we admitted defeat and got a taxi to the hotel for around £17.

A great start.

Accommodation

We stayed at the Valeria Dar Atlas which we booked through Destination2 for around £82 per night all inclusive for two people.

Having read some of the TripAdvisor reviews beforehand, we were fully prepared to arrive somewhere resembling a prison canteen with sunbeds.

But honestly? We were pleasantly surprised.

The hotel grounds were lovely with palm trees, pools and plenty of places to sit with a drink pretending we lived a glamorous lifestyle.

The room was clean, spacious and absolutely fine for what we paid. Was it ultra luxury? No. Did we care while drinking cocktails in the sunshine? Also no.

Rooms

The rooms were very basic but adequate for our needs. We had 3 single beds, a wardrobe (no drawers, a fridge (didn’t work) and a small table. The bathroom had a hair dyer (very slow), mirror and shower. There was a separate toilet which was handy. We also had a balcony with two plastic chairs and a plastic table both of which had seen better days. The rooms were cleaned daily but fresh towels and clean bedding were not always provided.

Food

Breakfast

Each morning you could have fresh eggs and omelettes which were cooked outside. At the food stations inside there was scrambled eggs, sausage, potatoes, vegetables, cereal, and pancakes. There was also a decent selection of meats, cheeses, salads, pastries and breads.

Lunch

Each day there was cooking outside which usually consisted of pizza, burgers, chips and paninis. At the food stations there was always a fish dish, a chicken dish and a meat dish. The lamb tagine was delicious. Alongside the main dishes there were plenty of very fresh salads, vegetables, breads and deserts. There was a drinks machine for soft drinks and also a coffee machine. There was a small bar in the dining room where wine was served. The wine surprisingly was quite good, maybe thanks to the French influence.

Dinner

The food selection for Dinner was similar to that provided at lunch, minus the outside cooking. In the evening they did try and make it a bit smarter than at lunch with table covers on the tables and waiter service for drinks. We asked for a ice bucket for our wine which was willingly provided – from then on each evening our wine was brought to our table with an ice bucket thanks to a fantastic waiter called Ayoub.

Drinks

Drinks were limited to beers, wines, sangria and a small selection of cocktails. Again as we had not paid a lot we did not expect a great deal. During the day the drinks were served in paper cups which they often ran out of. There is a pool bar which serves soft drinks, beers and wine. If you want any other alcoholic drink you have to go to the inside bar. There is always a long queue no matter which bar you go to or what time of day. There are some cocktails that you can pay 80 dhr for which is around £6.30. There is also fresh orange juice and slushies available that cost 20 dhr, around £1.60. We often bought the slushies and added vodka to them which made for a refreshing drink.

Pool scene

The pool area became our recovery zone after every trip into Marrakech itself.

There’s something magical about lying on a sunbed with a cocktail after spending several hours in the Medina fighting for survival against mopeds and market traders.

The pools are a decent size. The hotel goes to great lengths to keep the outside areas clean and there were always staff walking aound and clearing up empty cups and glasses.

Entertainment

The entertainment team were really keen and full of energy throughout the day. There were activities all day long including yoga, darts, aqua aerobics water polo and dancing. In the evening there was a children’s disco followed by dancing and music for adults. We could not fault the entertainment team especially for a all inclusive of this standard (4 star).

Every Saturday they have a foam party which is great fun. Everyone was dancing and jumping around including the entertainment team who try to get people involved but were never pushy.

Hotel grounds

The hotel is set in lovely grounds which included a small lake with ducks and ducklings. The grounds are well maintained and attractive.

Summary of hotel

We had read some rather negative reviews prior to arriving at the hotel therefore we did not expect it to be as good as it was. All of the staff work tirelessly and do their best to ensure you had a good time. It is not 5 star standard but we did not pay 5 star prices. We spoke with the manager (Saber Fajr) about the issue with the fridge and also enquired if we could have a late check out which he immediately sorted. Saber was speaking to other guests too and was genuinely interested in ensuring that guests were enjoying their stay.

Obviously there are some issues that the hotel could improve on that in our opinion would not cost a lot to rectify. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. It was fantastic value for money. We would definitely go back to this hotel if it was still available at a good price.

Tuk Tuk tour

We booked the Tuk Tuk tour through viator http://www.viator.com at a cost of £52 for 2 people.

We met our guide at the front of the Koutoubia Mosque. From our hotel this was a 30 minute taxi ride at a cost of 150 Dhr which is around £12.

Jardin Majorella Gardens

This is the first stop the tour takes you to. You have to book the tickets in advance as you can not pay on the day. There is an official site http://tickets.jardinmajorelle.com to buy the tickets on at 165 Dhr which is around £13.

Bahia Palace

There is an entrance fee of 100 Dhr per person which is around £8. As we had arrived at the Palace early in the morning it was pretty quiet but did start to fill up fairly quickly. There are lots of small rooms leading off from the main courtyard which we could imagine would be a be difficult to go in and out of during busy times.

Our driver gave us enough time to see the palace and read about its history. The Palace is very ornate. There was so much to take in and look at. You could easily spend a good few hours looking at this spectacular building.

Saadian Tombs

Built in the 16th century, the tombs, walls and ceilings are decorated with colourful tiles, mosaics and carvings. The architecture of the buildings is amazing. Again there was an entrance fee of 100 Dhr which is around £4. This is only a small place so does not take much to look around.

Tannery

When we arrived at the Tannery we were greeted by an elderly gentleman who gave us some fresh mint. He advised us that this was to mask the smell of the tannery which it did thank goodness! He explained to us what happens at the tannery and how the leather is treated and then made in to goods such as belts, bags, shoes and clothing.

He advised that all the workers live on site but the owners live in a big house elsewhere. At the end of the tour he took us to the leather shop. There was no hard sell we were able to just browse at our own time.

Souks

Marrakech is home to three main Souks ( Souk Semmarine, Souk El-k and Souk Nejjarine) The Souks are a hive of activity with lots of vibrant colours and the pleasant smells of food. It was great fun on the Tuk Tuk taking in the sights as he weaved in and out of the crowds. We managed to see so much and cover a lot of ground in the Souk. Not only were there people walking around the Souks but we also saw many other forms of transport including donkeys, bicycles, motor bikes, tuk tuks and vans all trying to make their way through the narrow streets.

As we were on the Tuk Tuk we did not get hassled as much as we would have done on foot. It appears that you can buy almost anything in the Souks. The main attraction in the Souks for the English tourists is the fake branded shops.

Main Square

This area attracts a lot of both tourists and locals. In the main square there are a lot of traditional street food places to eat at, serving an impressive range of dishes and many local families visit on an evening due to the quality of the food and the cost.

In the main square you will also see the traditional snake charmers who ask for money to have your photo taken with them. We opted out of this as don’t agree with the way the snakes are treated. There were also men with monkeys on chains who asked for money to have a photo taken with them but again this is very cruel and we do not agree with this therefore we did not have our photo taken. We appreciate that they have a living to make but we felt this was morally wrong.

Street Food Tour

We booked the street food tour through Viator https://www.viator.com/tours/england at a cost of £25 each. We were met by our guide Abdul at Argana Café which is near the main square. Abdul was very engaging as soon as he met us. As we walked through the narrow streets he was explaining about the area and the customs of the people. The bread shop he was going to take us to was actually closed therefore he took us to our first food tasting which was snails.

Babouch (Snails)

The snails were served in a small bowl with a sauce to dip them in. Abdul called the dip snail juice. It had been a long time since we had tasted snails therefore we did not know what to expect. Although the snails did taste ok it seemed a lot of effort for such little mouthfuls. Abdul advised that this was very popular with families during the evening.

Magic Bread

This was amazing and very filling. The bread is similar to a pitta bread. To begin with they open it up and spread olive oil on it. It is then filled with potato, cheese, onions and egg. This is then served with a chilli sauce to add yourself to your taste and tea. As it was getting towards evening time it was very popular with locals. Each person serving was working non-stop due to the amount of customers. There weren’t many tourists eating here but that’s the point of the street food tour – to try local food, and we like to eat where the locals eat.

Harira

This is a soup-like dish again popular with the locals. The nearest thing we could compare it to was that it was similar to minestrone soup. This was served with sweet pastries and dates. Due to the popularity of the street food the quantities cooked are vast. The Harira was cooked in very large pots.

Masamen

Masamen is very similar to pancakes. It can be served as a sweet dish with honey or savoury which is stuffed with cheese. We ate this at a café style venue served with tea. Abdul informed us about the art of pouring the tea. He advised that tea needs to be poured from a height to create a froth. With out the froth the tea isn’t prepared properly.

Olives

We went to the madina to try some local olives. There were many stores selling the olives in one street. Abdul advised that there is no competition between the stalls as they all sell at the same price and know each other well. He advised that all of the stall owners are friends and socialise together. The variation of olives available was something we had never seen before nor did we know there were so many varieties.

Nuts

Again we ate them in the madina. Lots of stalls were selling the nuts. A vast variety of nuts from some that were quite salty and others that were in a sweet coating with sesame seeds. Abdul our guide asked the stall owner to put a mixed variety in a bag for us to try – they were delicious.

Panashi

Panashi is a smoothie type of drink made with a mixture of fruits. It is so full of flavour and if we had not eaten so much already we would definitely have had another of these. As it was getting later in to the evening the food places were becoming very full. There were queues at most of the street food vendors.

Khodnjal

This a tea which is made from thirteen different herbs. The tea is said to help the locals stay healthy and keep coughs and colds away. This is a very strong tea with a lovely herbal smell.

Mixed Sandwich

This was our final stop on the food tour. It was so busy with queues to order the food and wait for it to be cooked. The mixed sandwich was similar to a kebab in the UK. It consisted of meat or chicken, onions, peppers and cheese in a bread similar to a pitta bread. Unfortunately by this time we had eaten so much we could not eat it therefore we got it to take away.

Summary of tour

Abdul was an excellent guide who told us all about the food, the ingredients, the origins and the customs. If we hadn’t gone on the tour we would not have known where to eat to experience the variation in the Moroccan food. They always say eat where the locals eat to have the best traditional food and this was definitely the case with this food tour. We thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience.

Breakfast and camel ride in Agafay Desert

We had booked the excursion through viator https://www.viator.com/tours/england at a cost of £18 each. On the day we booked to do the activity we got up at 6am as we were being picked up at 7am. We waited until 8am but nobody turned up. We tried calling a number which we were given for the tour operated but this did not exist therefore we contacted Viator who also couldn’t get in touch with them. We sent several emails but still no response. Later that day we got a whatsapp message apologising.

We arranged to do the trip the following day so another early start! Thankfully the transfer arrived on time. The journey to the camp took around 40 minutes. Part of the way there we had to change vehicle to an off road vehicle due to the terrain.

Breakfast

When we arrived at our destination we were shown to where we would eat our breakfast. This consisted of pancakes, soft cheese, bread, jams, cake, water, tea or orange juice. Other people had eggs but they had run out by the time we got there. The surroundings and breakfast were nothing like the photo on Viator (see above image taken from Viator website). The pancakes/bread was so hard it was difficult to chew them.

Pool

The owner of the camp advised that we could use the swimming pool due to the error with the booking and the no-show from the driver the previous day. The swimming pool is in a lovely setting therefore we were looking forward to having a swim in it. The pool is well maintained with nice sun loungers.

Camel Ride

After breakfast we were taken for our camel ride. The saddles for the camels were made of an hessian type of material which actually rubbed your legs. One of the camels was very unruly and tried to throw me (Debbie) off on more than one occasion. It also tried biting the guide several times. We were taken by camel to the top of a large hill with views over looking over the desert and camp. We were able to feed the camels too, however we were a bit apprehensive regarding the camel which had tried several times to bite the guide.

After the camel ride we were taken back to the camp. The owner stated if we wanted to use the pool we would have to stay until 4pm when a driver would be returning to Marrakech. As we were going home that day we were not able to stay until that time. Originally the owner advised we could use the pool for an hour or two then someone would take us back to the hotel – he then changed his mind for what ever reason.

Summary of Breakfast and camel ride in Agafay Desert

Although we did not expect a lot due to the cost we did expect the driver to turn up. This could have been a fantastic experience if they had put a bit more effort into to the breakfast offering and included time in the pool. If they charged a bit more then this could be added to the experience. We were obviously disappointed when we were told we could use the pool for a short while but then told we needed to stay all day if we wanted to do this. Our advice would be to read reviews before booking and pay more for a better experience. Unfortunately we booked before realising there were no reviews.

Things to do

• Visit the Atlas mountains and the 5 valleys.
• Do a camel ride.
• Do a street food tour.
• Visit the medina and main square.
• Grab a bargain in the Souks.
• Do a balloon ride.
• Ride the quads and dune buggies.
• Take a Tuk Tuk ride around the main sites.
• Visit Ouzould waterfalls

Top Tips

• Book excursions prior to visiting Marrakech and read reviews.
• Local currency can not be taken in or out of the country therefore ensure you know where to get your currency.
• When booking an hotel try comparison sites for the best deal. We used Trivago https://www.trivago.co.uk/hotels/comparison
• Research the hotel prior to booking.
• Check out the dress code for certain tourist attractions.
• Check out the UK Government website for security and safety advice when visiting Marrakech http://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/morocco
• Morocco can get very hot in the summer months – check out the temperatures below for best time to visit Marrakech.
• Check out the other destinations we have visited in Africa

Weather

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey. Istanbul is split in two by the Borphorus Straight and has a European side and an Asian side.

Travel to Istanbul

We took off from Manchester Airport on an afternoon EasyJet flight, feeling fancy with our pre-booked seats—a true luxury at £150 per person return. The catch? The fare only included a bag small enough to fit under the seat… ideally your own seat. Still, since we were only away for three nights, we embraced minimalist living—who needs wardrobe options when you can wear the same jeans in three different moods?

Executive lounge (Escape)

Before our flight, we decided to treat ourselves like the jet‑setters we clearly thought we were and booked into the Escape Lounge at Terminal 1 — a mere £36 each, which we justified as “an investment in relaxation” (and bacon). We booked directly with Manchester Airport, because nothing says luxury like cutting out the middleman.

After checking in at the front desk — trying our best to look like people who do this sort of thing all the time — we were ushered to our table, where breakfast awaited in all its glory. There was a full cooked spread: bacon, sausage, hash browns, beans, tomatoes and eggs (fried and scrambled, clearly catering to both adventurers and traditionalists).

As if that wasn’t enough to test our self‑control, there were breads, yoghurts, fruit, pastries and cereals — basically every food group that pairs well with guilt. By the time we’d finished “sampling” everything, we were fully ready to escape… straight into a food coma.

The lounge bar was so wonderfully quiet that getting a drink felt less like battling through a Friday night in Wetherspoons and more like having your own personal bartender on standby. Most drinks were included too, including sparkling wine in both white and rosé — because apparently nothing says “airport luxury” quite like sipping free fizz at 10am without judgement.

The food changed from breakfast to lunch whilst we were in the lounge. This included a variety of hot and cold food including sandwiches, crisps, cottage pie and a Thai chicken curry.

We arrived at the airport at 9.30pm Istanbul time, slightly tired but still optimistic and ready to begin our Turkish adventure. Finding the man holding a sign with our name on it was surprisingly easy — which, in hindsight, was probably the last thing that went smoothly that evening.

Unfortunately, after this triumphant moment of recognition, we then entered what felt like the extended director’s cut of Waiting for a Driver. Over 50 minutes later, including a trek down to the pick-up point worthy of an episode of Race Across the World, our transport finally arrived. We had booked the transfer through Booking.com at a cost of £30 each way, and at this point we were beginning to wonder whether the driver was travelling from Istanbul via Greece.

To be fair, once he did arrive, our driver — Muhammed Zahit Ozkilic, employed by Prime — was absolutely lovely. Friendly, helpful and probably the calmest person involved in the entire evening. On the plus side, the vehicle itself was luxurious, spotless and spacious enough to stretch out comfortably while we tried to convince ourselves the night could only get better from here. Spoiler alert: it could not.

Accommodation Nightmare

The journey into the old town of Istanbul took around 50 minutes. We had specifically chosen accommodation in this area because it was close to many of the main attractions we wanted to visit. Through Booking.com we had booked what appeared to be a spacious apartment for three nights at a cost of £160 — a bargain, we thought. Ah yes… the innocence.

The first warning sign came when we tried contacting the owners the day before travel through Booking.com and received no reply. During the journey from the airport we tried several more times, again with no response. Still, we remained hopeful. After all, what are holidays without a little unnecessary anxiety?

Then we arrived.

Except… there was no apartment building. No reception. No sign. Nothing. The address appeared to lead us to thin air. At this point it was after midnight, we were tired, confused and standing in the middle of Istanbul wondering if perhaps the apartment existed only spiritually.

We contacted Booking.com who informed us they would get back to us within 24 hours — which was incredibly reassuring considering we currently had nowhere to sleep except possibly a pavement near the Blue Mosque.

Thankfully, our driver Muhammed was an absolute star and genuinely tried his best to help us. He asked numerous locals if they knew of the apartment, but nobody had ever heard of it. This confirmed what we had already started to suspect: the apartment was about as real as my plans to pack light for a holiday.

It was clearly a scam, yet despite all of this, Booking.com have refused to refund the booking cost. Considering we had been loyal customers for years, we were far from impressed.

New accommodation at the Glorious Hotel

After discovering that our original “apartment” existed only in the imagination of a scammer, we then faced the delightful challenge of trying to find a hotel in Istanbul after midnight. Unsurprisingly, many places were either full or looked like the sort of establishment where you’d leave with fewer possessions than you arrived with.

Eventually, after what felt like a late-night episode of The Amazing Race: Istanbul Edition, we managed to secure a room at the Glorious Hotel at a cost of £180 for 3 nights. Thankfully, our wonderful driver Muhammed stayed with us the entire time, driving us around and refusing to abandon two stranded tourists wandering Istanbul with suitcases and rapidly fading patience. At this point he deserved honorary tour guide status — or possibly sainthood.

Rooms

The rooms at the hotel were fairly basic and on the cosy side — and by cosy, I mean if you opened your suitcase fully you risked blocking the fire exit. However, they were perfectly adequate for what we needed and, most importantly, they actually existed, which already put them ahead of our original accommodation.

The rooms were cleaned daily to a very high standard and fresh towels were provided every day too, which always makes you feel slightly more luxurious than you actually are. While we didn’t have the spacious apartment we had originally planned for, the rooms were comfortable enough for a city break where most of your time is spent out exploring (or recovering from accommodation trauma).

Wellness Area

One thing we absolutely did not expect was to discover a surprisingly impressive wellness area hidden away in the hotel basement like some sort of secret spa bunker.

For an additional charge, guests can use the sauna, steam room and traditional Turkish bath, with a variety of massage and beauty treatment packages available. Prices started from around 60 euros, which was actually very reasonable considering everything included.

The area itself was calm, relaxing and honestly the perfect place to recover after dragging your luggage around Istanbul questioning your life choices. If we had been staying longer, we definitely would have booked a treatment. It genuinely felt like discovering a little hidden gem tucked away beneath the hotel — proof that sometimes the best surprises are found underground in Istanbul… preferably not alongside your missing apartment.

Location

The hotel was located within around a 20-minute walk of the main sights in the Sultanahmet area, which turned out to be ideal for us. Before arriving, we had considered buying tickets for one of the hop-on hop-off buses, mainly because nothing says “tourist” quite like sitting on the top deck trying not to lose your sunglasses.

However, once we got there, we quickly realised the best way to explore Istanbul was simply on foot. We do enjoy walking when visiting new places, partly because you discover far more hidden streets, shops and cafés — and partly because it helps justify the amount of bread and baklava consumed on holiday.

Walking around also meant we stumbled across all sorts of things we would probably have missed from a bus, including tiny side streets, local markets and approximately 47 cats who clearly considered themselves official city tour guides.

For attractions slightly further afield, we used Uber which we found surprisingly reasonable compared to UK prices. It was quite refreshing to complete a journey without needing to remortgage the house afterwards.

Food and Drink

On an evening we usually ended up in the hotel restaurant bar for a relaxed drink before bed. A glass of wine and a bottle of beer came to around £10, which for a hotel was actually pretty reasonable — especially considering airport prices nowadays can leave you financially recovering for weeks.

One of the nicest unexpected parts of the trip was meeting a lovely group of Bulgarian guests who were also staying at the hotel. Each evening somehow turned into a little international nightcap gathering despite us all speaking different languages.

Thankfully, Google Translate stepped in like the hero nobody knew they needed. Conversations involved a lot of phones being passed around the table, dramatic facial expressions and occasional confusion, but somehow we all managed to communicate perfectly well — proof that wine, beer and technology really can bring people together.

We decided to try the hotel breakfast on our first morning since it was included in the price — and as any traveller knows, “included” food somehow feels impossible to turn down, even when you’re not entirely sure what half of it is.

Unfortunately, the breakfast wasn’t really to our taste. Most of the guests staying at the hotel were Turkish or Bulgarian, so the breakfast was very much catered towards them, which is completely fair enough when you’re visiting another country. It’s always good to experience local culture… even if at 8am your brain is desperately searching for toast and a brew.

Thankfully, eating out for breakfast in Istanbul was incredibly reasonable, with plenty of cafés and restaurants offering all sorts of options nearby. And honestly, when in Turkey, there’s apparently nothing wrong with starting your day with a doner kebab. Forget cereal — nothing says “ready for sightseeing” quite like questionable breakfast decisions involving grilled meat before 10am.

Sightseeing by foot

Grand Bazaar

Our first sightseeing stop in Istanbul was the famous Grand Bazaar — one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world and apparently one of the very first shopping malls ever created. Proof, if any was needed, that humans have been impulse-buying things they don’t need for centuries.

As it was a Saturday, the Bazaar was absolutely heaving with people from every corner of the globe. If you dislike crowds, personal space invasion or being enthusiastically invited into shops every seven seconds, then this may not be your ideal relaxing afternoon stroll. At times the walkways were so packed that moving forward became less “shopping experience” and more “slow-moving human traffic jam.”

The shopkeepers were incredibly persistent and seemed to possess a supernatural ability to spot tourists from 400 metres away. Before you knew it, you were apparently best friends with someone trying to sell you rugs, lamps, handbags, spices and possibly a small kingdom.

The range of things available in the Bazaar is honestly endless. Jewellery, clothing, rugs, homeware, spices, food, footwear — you can buy practically anything here. I’m fairly certain if we’d looked hard enough, someone would have sold us a camel and thrown in a free keyring.

One important thing to remember when shopping in the Bazaar: never accept the first price. Negotiating is all part of the experience and, oddly enough, quite good fun once you get over the awkwardness of pretending to walk away dramatically while secretly hoping they call you back.

Not far from the Grand Bazaar we discovered a most amazing doughnut shop which sold very delicious doughnuts with a range of different flavours. The shop is on Tahmis Sk. not too far away from the Galata Bridge.

Blue Mosque

The stunning Blue Mosque, also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, was built in the early 17th century and is still a fully functioning mosque today. Unlike many famous attractions around the world that charge you the equivalent of a small mortgage payment to enter, access to the mosque is completely free.

From the outside the building is absolutely breathtaking, with its huge domes and towering minarets dominating the skyline. Inside, it somehow becomes even more impressive. The intricate details, chandeliers and famous blue tiles make it one of those places where you genuinely stop talking for a few minutes — partly out of respect and partly because you’re busy staring upwards trying not to walk into anybody.

There are a few rules before entering, which are important to respect. Women need to cover their hair and make sure shoulders and legs are covered, while everyone must remove their shoes before going inside. This led to the slightly awkward but universal tourist experience of trying to quickly untie footwear while balancing on one leg amongst hundreds of other confused visitors doing exactly the same thing.

Hagia Sophia

The incredible Hagia Sophia is one of Istanbul’s most famous landmarks and has had quite the identity crisis over the centuries. Originally built around 360 AD as an Orthodox Christian church, it later became a mosque, was then transformed into a museum, and has since reverted back into a mosque again. This building has reinvented itself more times than Madonna.

It is undoubtedly one of the most popular tourist attractions in Istanbul, and judging by the crowds outside, it seemed the entire world had decided to visit on the same day as us. The building itself is absolutely breathtaking, with its enormous dome and dramatic architecture dominating the skyline. Even if you know absolutely nothing about history, you still find yourself standing there staring up at it thinking, “Well… that’s a bit impressive.”

You can buy tickets to go inside, but when we arrived the queue was absolutely gigantic. And not just a “slight wait” kind of queue — this was the sort of line where people ahead of you probably had time to form friendships, start families and discuss pension plans before reaching the entrance.

As our time in Istanbul was limited, we decided not to go inside on this occasion. Partly because we wanted to see more of the city and partly because neither of us fancied ageing visibly while waiting in line.

Still, even seeing Hagia Sophia from the outside was well worth the visit. Plus, by avoiding the queue we gained extra time for our other important Istanbul activities: getting slightly lost, admiring cats and searching for food every 20 minutes.

Galata Tower

The famous Galata Tower is now a museum and gives its name to the trendy Galata area of Istanbul. Originally built in the 13th century, it was once the tallest building in the city — which must have been quite impressive at a time when most people’s skyline consisted mainly of roofs and the occasional ambitious pigeon.

Unfortunately, when we visited, the tower was covered in renovation work, making it slightly difficult to appreciate its full beauty. In fact, most of our photos looked less like “historic Istanbul landmark” and more like “large medieval building site.”

Still, even partially hidden behind scaffolding, the tower remained impressive and the surrounding Galata area was well worth exploring. The streets around it were full of cafés, shops and steep hills guaranteed to make you question your fitness levels within approximately three minutes.

Galata Bridge

The busy Galata Bridge connects the old and new parts of the European side of Istanbul and is far more than just a bridge — it’s practically a full-time social event.

What surprised us most was the sheer number of fishermen lined along both sides of the bridge. There were so many fishing rods sticking out over the water that at times it looked less like a bridge and more like some sort of giant porcupine balancing over the Bosphorus.

Considering the constant stream of boats passing underneath, it was honestly a miracle that the fishing lines didn’t end up tangled around passing ferries, tour boats or unsuspecting tourists. We spent a good amount of time watching in amazement, fully expecting at least one fisherman to accidentally reel in public transport.

The bridge itself is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of Istanbul, with fantastic views across the water and plenty going on around you. Just be careful where you walk — dodging fishing rods quickly becomes an unexpected part of the sightseeing experience.

Sightseeing by boat

We booked a boat trip through Viator at a cost of £22 for two people, which we thought was pretty decent value considering it involved a cruise around one of the world’s most famous waterways and not just a paddle boat on a local duck pond.

We were instructed to meet at 12.20pm near the Blue Mosque. Thankfully, the company had the foresight to send a photo of the exact meeting point because Google Maps decided to play its usual holiday game of “close enough.” The address it provided took us around 20 metres away, which doesn’t sound much until you’re standing in a packed tourist area wondering if you’ve accidentally joined the wrong excursion.

After waiting around for about 15 minutes, our guide finally appeared and began leading the group through the busy streets towards the harbour where the boat was moored. This part of the experience felt less like a relaxing sightseeing tour and more like participating in a very stressed-out school trip. With crowds everywhere and people constantly stopping suddenly for photos, it basically turned into organised chaos. At one point it genuinely felt like we were being herded through Istanbul like slightly confused cattle.

Eventually we reached the boat, only to discover the seating area was absolutely packed. The seats were so close together that sitting down comfortably required the flexibility of a yoga instructor and the personal space expectations of a sardine. We ended up with seats in the middle of the boat but quickly realised there wasn’t enough room to enjoy the journey properly.

In the end, we stood for the entire trip — which actually turned out to be the better option anyway, as it gave us far better views of the sights along the Bosphorus. Plus, standing meant we avoided accidentally becoming permanently wedged between two strangers for the duration of the cruise.

Bosphorus Bridge

The impressive Bosphorus Bridge was opened in 1973 after three years of construction and stretches across the Bosphorus Strait, linking Europe and Asia together — which is quite a useful shortcut really, considering swimming across probably isn’t ideal.

At the time it was built, it was the longest suspension bridge in Europe, proudly holding the title until the Humber Bridge came along and stole its crown. A bit like being the tallest child in school until somebody has a growth spurt over summer holidays.

Even today the bridge is an impressive sight, especially when lit up at night

Maiden’s Tower

The picturesque Maiden’s Tower, also known as Leander’s Tower, sits on a tiny island around 200 metres from the southern entrance of the Bosphorus Strait. Standing alone in the water, it honestly looks like something straight out of a fairy tale — or possibly the world’s most inconvenient location for popping out to buy milk.

These days you can actually catch a boat over to the tower and enjoy a meal there, which sounds incredibly romantic and far more sophisticated than most of our usual holiday dining decisions.

Unfortunately, due to our limited time in Istanbul, we didn’t get chance to visit properly, which was a shame because eating dinner on a tiny tower in the middle of the Bosphorus definitely sounds like the sort of thing you tell people about repeatedly afterwards whether they asked or not.

Ortakoy Mosque

The beautiful Ortaköy Mosque is known as the smallest mosque in Istanbul and was built between 1854 and 1856. What it lacks in size, however, it more than makes up for in charm and location.

Sitting right on Ortaköy Pier Square beside the Bosphorus, the mosque almost looks too picturesque to be real — like someone carefully placed it there purely for Instagram purposes long before Instagram even existed.

The surrounding square is a very popular tourist area packed with cafés, food stalls and people taking approximately 700 photos from slightly different angles. Between the mosque, the waterfront views and the nearby Bosphorus Bridge, it’s one of those places where you can easily lose track of time… mainly because you keep stopping every few minutes to take “just one more picture.”

Dolmabahce Palace

The magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace was built between 1843 and 1856 and served as home to six different Sultans between 1856 and 1924, before ownership eventually transferred to the Turkish Republic.

And honestly, if you were a Sultan, this is exactly the sort of place you’d want to live. The palace is outrageously grand, packed with chandeliers, marble, gold detailing and enough luxury to make modern celebrity mansions look a bit underwhelming. It’s basically the 19th-century equivalent of saying, “Money is no object.”

Even from the outside, the building is absolutely stunning and easily one of the most spectacular sights in Istanbul. Looking at it, you quickly realise the Sultans were not fans of minimalism. There’s nothing subtle about this palace whatsoever — it’s all very much “go big or go home,” except in this case, home was the gigantic palace.

Summary of boat trip

Overall, the boat trip was definitely worth the money we paid and gave us the chance to see some absolutely fantastic sights across Istanbul from the water. We managed to get some great photos too, helped enormously by the bright, dry weather — a rare travel blessing that instantly makes everything look more expensive and glamorous than it probably was.

That said, if we return to Istanbul and decide to do another cruise, we would probably pay a little extra to depart from one of the main ports. The pier used for this trip was a bit tucked away and felt slightly like we’d been led to a secret underground boating society. In fact, the harbour was so small and quiet that our boat appeared to be the only one there, which briefly made us wonder whether we’d accidentally booked ourselves onto some sort of pirate excursion.

Still, once we were actually out on the water, all of the earlier chaos was quickly forgotten. The views along the Bosphorus were stunning, the atmosphere was lovely and standing for most of the trip probably helped burn off at least half a kebab.

Evening cruise, meal and show

We booked this evening dinner cruise through Viator and paid extra for the unlimited alcohol package, bringing the total to £75 for two people. Considering this included transport, dinner, entertainment, drinks and a cruise along the Bosphorus, we thought it sounded like a bargain — or at the very least, cheaper than a night out at home.

Our transport arrived at the hotel around 7pm, although due to Istanbul’s wonderfully chaotic narrow streets and one-way system, the coach couldn’t actually reach the hotel entrance. Instead, we had to wander a couple of streets away to find it, dragging ourselves and our evening glamour through traffic and potholes like contestants on a budget version of The Apprentice.

There were several other hotel pick-ups before we reached the harbour, and the roads were absolutely packed at that time of night. Istanbul traffic appears to operate on a system best described as “good luck everyone.” Thankfully, despite the chaos, we still arrived with plenty of time to board the boat.

Once onboard, we were quickly shown to our table which turned out to be in a prime position directly opposite the dance floor — excellent for the show, slightly dangerous once the unlimited drinks started flowing. It also became clear fairly quickly that the organisers had cleverly grouped the alcohol drinkers together while those sticking to soft drinks appeared to be seated elsewhere. Essentially, one side of the boat was “peaceful sightseeing cruise” while the other slowly evolved into “office Christmas party energy.”

The atmosphere onboard was brilliant. Almost every seat was taken, creating a lively buzz throughout the evening, and you were free to wander around the boat whenever you liked. We regularly headed out onto the deck to admire the illuminated skyline of Istanbul and take photos while pretending we were starring in a glamorous travel documentary rather than just trying not to spill wine in the wind.

Food and drink

Dinner began with a tasty selection of meze and fresh salad, followed by a choice of chicken or fish served with vegetables and rice. Dessert was baklava, because apparently Turkish people believe pudding should contain approximately 97% syrup — and honestly, we fully supported this decision.

The food was actually far better than we expected considering the number of people onboard, and the service throughout the evening was impressively efficient. Nobody was left waiting too long, which is particularly important when unlimited drinks are involved.

Speaking of drinks, the package included local beers, wines, spirits and the famous Turkish speciality, Raki — a drink which somehow tastes both strong and dangerous at the same time. Surprisingly, the wine was actually very pleasant, which genuinely shocked us slightly considering what we had paid for the entire experience.

We also had an amazing waiter — we think his name was Bozat (apologies if not!). He constantly checked that we were enjoying ourselves and ensured our glasses were never empty for more than about 14 seconds. The man worked harder than most people at the gym.

The show

Female dancers

The entertainment started with a group of female dancers emerging onto the dance floor in beautiful costumes, and they continued to appear throughout the evening in a variety of different outfits and performances. Their dancing was fantastic to watch and they interacted brilliantly with the audience, creating a really fun atmosphere onboard.

Having a table directly opposite the dance floor meant we had an excellent view of the performances all evening. It also meant there was absolutely nowhere to hide whenever audience participation looked likely, which added a slight edge of fear to the entertainment.

Male dancers

The male dancers somehow managed to be even more energetic than the female performers, which honestly seemed physically impossible given the amount of spinning, jumping and dramatic arm movements already taking place. At one point we were exhausted just watching them while sitting down with a drink.

Part of their performance included a knife-throwing act involving several extremely nervous-looking audience volunteers. Nothing says “relaxing holiday evening cruise” quite like watching strangers stand very still while sharp objects fly past them. Thankfully, despite a few tense moments and several faces clearly reconsidering their life choices, everyone survived the experience without injury.

The male dancers also changed costumes throughout the evening, appearing in a variety of outfits that somehow became increasingly dramatic as the night went on. On several occasions both the male and female dancers performed together, creating a lively atmosphere that felt part traditional performance, part nightclub and part organised chaos — especially once the unlimited drinks had started to fully kick in around the room.

Belly dancer

One of the highlights of the evening was undoubtedly the belly dancer, who completely owned the room from the moment she appeared. She moved gracefully from table to table, dancing in front of mainly the male guests and encouraging them to tuck money into her costume — an activity some of the men seemed far too enthusiastic to participate in.

The expressions around the room were priceless, ranging from awkward embarrassment to absolute delight, depending largely on who was sat next to their spouse at the time.

She also performed a short solo routine on the dance floor, and honestly, her ability to move her hips and stomach in ways that didn’t seem physically possible was genuinely impressive. Watching her dance made most of us realise we struggle enough just getting off the sofa without making strange noises.

Gangnam Style Lookalike?

One of the funniest moments of the evening came when a man in his late 40s or early 50s suddenly took to the dance floor with the energy of a teenager and absolutely no fear of embarrassment.

What started as a bit of dancing quickly turned into a full performance as he made his way from table to table entertaining the guests. The highlight was when Gangnam Style started playing and he launched into the routine with complete commitment while the whole boat cheered and laughed along.

By this point everyone was in great spirits — even the people on the non-alcohol package seemed ready to join in. It was one of those random holiday moments that ended up being one of the most memorable parts of the night.

Sightseeing on cruise

Although Istanbul looked wonderful all lit up at night especially with the lights reflecting on the water it was quite difficult to get any decent photographs using only our iPhones. I am sure with a better camera than ours you would be able to take some amazing photos.

Summary of evening cruise

Overall, the whole experience was brilliant and excellent value for money. It ticked all the right boxes — good food, unlimited drinks, lively entertainment, stunning views and the chance to cruise along the Bosphorus feeling slightly more glamorous than we actually are.

There was never a dull moment, whether it was admiring the illuminated Istanbul skyline, watching the dancers, avoiding eye contact during audience participation, or cheering on the unexpected Gangnam Style performance of the night.

It was one of those evenings where everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves, the atmosphere was fantastic and the drinks definitely helped improve people’s dance confidence levels.

We would absolutely recommend this evening cruise to anyone visiting Istanbul — just prepare yourself for a night of food, fun and possibly witnessing strangers make questionable dance decisions.

Bars and Restaurants in Istanbul

Restaurants

When it comes to eating out in Istanbul, you are absolutely spoiled for choice. There are so many restaurants, cafés and kebab houses scattered across the city that choosing where to eat can quickly become a full-time job in itself.

Some of the more popular restaurants overlook the Bosphorus, offering incredible views while you dine — because apparently your kebab tastes even better when accompanied by a sunset and a million-pound view.

As you might expect, there are endless Turkish kebab restaurants to choose from, ranging from cheap and cheerful little cafés to places so fancy you suddenly feel underdressed ordering chips. The smell of grilled meat seems to follow you everywhere in Istanbul, which is both wonderful and extremely dangerous for your waistband.

One of our favourite meals was in a small family-run restaurant in the Fatih district called Erciyes Kiraathanesi, just off Kadirga Limani Cd. It was nothing overly fancy, but the food was delicious, the prices were very reasonable and it had that lovely authentic feel that makes you think, “Why did we almost pay triple somewhere with a rooftop and mood lighting?”

Bars

Most of the bars in Istanbul seem to be concentrated in the lively Beyoğlu area of the city. If you’re looking for nightlife, this is definitely the place to head, as the area is packed with bars, cafés, restaurants, coffee shops and enough people to make you wonder if anyone in Istanbul actually sleeps.

The streets are busy from morning right through until late evening, creating a fun atmosphere with music, food smells and constant activity everywhere you look. It’s the sort of place where you go out for “just one drink” and somehow end up still wandering around three hours later looking for snacks.

One thing we quickly discovered was that while alcohol is served in most restaurants and hotels across Istanbul, finding an actual dedicated bar outside of Beyoğlu was surprisingly difficult. At times it felt like we were on some sort of adult treasure hunt searching for somewhere just to sit and have a drink that didn’t also serve kebabs, coffee or breakfast.

Drink prices in Istanbul bars are generally fairly similar to UK prices, although you do need to be careful when ordering imported drinks unless you enjoy mild financial shock alongside your beverage.

We discovered this the hard way in the Celtic Irish Bar when we were charged £9.50 for a small bottle of cider. At that price, we half expected it to be served in a crystal glass by someone playing the violin. Meanwhile, a pint of local lager cost only £4.70, which suddenly seemed like one of the best bargains in the city.

The lesson here is simple: when in Istanbul, drink local — your bank account will thank you for it.

We also visited the Fred bar where cocktails were around £4 each and certain lagers were only £3 a pint.

We also visited the Tower Pub which is just around the corner from the Galata Tower. It is a typical English Pub which stocked a number of craft beers and was showing Premier League football.

Summary of Istanbul

Although we managed to squeeze an incredible amount into our trip, our short stay meant there were still plenty of things we didn’t get chance to do. Istanbul is one of those cities where every corner seems to reveal something interesting — whether it’s a historic building, a hidden café, a rooftop restaurant or simply another place selling kebabs bigger than your head.

The city is vibrant, chaotic, beautiful and full of character, and we fully intend to return for a long weekend in the future… preferably with slightly more time and slightly fewer accommodation-related dramas.

The only real downside to the trip was our experience with Booking.com, who happily took payment for an apartment that appeared to exist only in another dimension. Despite the property seemingly being impossible to find because it simply didn’t exist, we are still battling to get our money refunded.

A few days after returning home, we watched an episode of ITV’s Tonight Show featuring another family who had booked a villa through Booking.com that also turned out not to exist.

Things to do in Istanbul

• Visit the Blue Mosque
• Visit Hagia Sophia
• Visit Grand Bazar
• Visit the Dolmabahce Palace
• Sample the local cuisine
• Visit Galata Tower
• Take a boat trip by day
• Enjoy the evening cruise with a show, food and drink
• If bars are your thing visit the Beyoglu area of Istanbul
• Visit the old town
• Visit Princess Islands especially in the Summer months.

Top Tips

• Check out the area you are wanting to stay in before booking as areas in Istanbul vary a lot.
• Ensure you book your accommodation with a reputable company.
• Check reviews of accommodation before booking – if there are no reviews we suggest don’t book.
• Check your travel company out on Trust Pilot before booking.
• If booking a daytime boat trip, book from the main ports as they are more convenient to get to.
• Book all excursions/experiences though know companies with good reviews.
• In busy areas keep your valuables safe as there are a fair few pickpockets in Istanbul.
• In the Grand Bazaar be aware of hassle from store owners. Be polite and keep walking if you don’t want to buy anything.
• The Grand Bazaar is very busy especially on a Saturday and extremely congested. Ladies keep your handbags close to you at all times.
• Uber works here and a relatively safe way to travel – and cheap!
• Walking is the best way to see the Old Town if you are able.
• Check out government advice when visiting Istanbul https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/turkey
• Check out weather below for best time to visit Istanbul

Weather

Ras Al Khaimah is the 6th largest city in the UAE and the 6th most populated city in the UAE.

Travelling to Ras Al Khaimah

Airport lounge

The plan was simple: start the holiday in style at the Premium Plaza Lounge in Heathrow Terminal 5, for the bargain price of just £75 for two. Thanks to British Airways running check-in with military precision, we sailed through security so quickly we barely had time to mentally prepare ourselves for the “luxury” ahead.

To be fair, the staff at the lounge were absolutely lovely. The ladies on reception welcomed us warmly, escorted us to a reserved table like VIPs, and throughout our stay the waitresses tirelessly checked if we needed another drink. Honestly, the staff deserved to be working somewhere far fancier.

Sadly, the lounge itself looked less “exclusive airport retreat” and more “motorway service station that had once watched an episode of Grand Designs.” It was one long room with a partial runway view — although we spent most of the time admiring it through our winter coats because the place was absolutely freezing. Nothing says premium relaxation quite like sipping wine while dressed for an Arctic expedition.

Now, onto the food. The selection was what can only be described as “minimalist.” Guests could choose from:

• one meat dish,
• one vegetarian dish,
• pasta,
• potatoes,
• a basic salad,
• one lonely cheese,
• crackers,
• and chocolate brownies doing their best to carry the entire dessert section.

The drinks selection was equally underwhelming. No sparkling wine, no cider, no Baileys, and — perhaps most traumatically — no hot chocolate included. Apparently these luxuries required an additional payment. At this point we half expected to be charged extra for napkins and central heating.

Having travelled extensively and visited many airport lounges over the years, we can confidently say this was the least impressive lounge we’ve experienced. It wasn’t terrible… it just felt like someone had taken the word “premium” and interpreted it very loosely.

That said, the staff genuinely worked incredibly hard and could not have been more helpful throughout. They were the shining stars in what was otherwise a rather chilly, beige experience. A real shame we couldn’t access the BA lounges instead — we spent most of the visit peering longingly in their direction like airport lounge orphans.

Flight

We flew to Dubai with British Airways on one of the three daily flights they operate from Heathrow. Wanting sunshine without the sensation of slowly roasting like a rotisserie chicken, we wisely chose to visit in January — arguably the perfect time to go. The temperatures are lovely and warm without feeling like someone is aiming a giant hairdryer directly at your face, which is more the experience during Dubai’s summer months.

As we were travelling on BA staff travel, the flights were delightfully cheap for us (one of the few occasions in life where you feel like you’ve beaten the system). However, for mere mortals paying full price, economy return flights are typically around £730 including a generous 23kg luggage allowance — plenty of room for holiday outfits you’ll never actually wear.

Our flight departed Heathrow at the very civilised hour of 21:35 and arrived in Dubai at 08:30 local time the following morning. The flight time is around seven hours, which in long-haul terms is practically just a quick hop. Dubai is also four hours ahead of the UK, meaning by the time you arrive your body clock has absolutely no idea what’s going on.

Shortly after take-off the cabin crew appeared with snacks and drinks, including alcohol, soft drinks and hot drinks — and, refreshingly, they didn’t guard the drinks trolley like it contained the Crown Jewels. There was no awkward “one drink per customer” policy here. If you fancied another drink, they happily obliged, which certainly helps make seven hours in a flying metal tube feel more glamorous.

Before landing we were served breakfast, which was exactly what you’d expect from economy class dining at 35,000 feet: scrambled eggs of mysterious texture, sausage, mushrooms, beans, a bread roll, yoghurt, muffin, cheese, biscuits, water and orange juice. Was it gourmet? Absolutely not. Did we eat every last crumb because it was breakfast and we were trapped on a plane with no other options? Also absolutely.

Customs

Passing through customs in Dubai was incredibly quick and easy. Despite the plane being completely full, the queue moved so fast we barely had chance to look tired and jet-lagged. Dubai Airport clearly has the process down to a fine art — unlike some airports where you begin questioning whether you’ll ever see daylight again.

Baggage

When we arrived at baggage reclaim, the cases were already coming through. One of ours appeared almost immediately, giving us false hope that the second would follow shortly after.

It didn’t.

Slowly the crowd disappeared until only a small group of us remained staring hopefully at the carousel as if our luggage might magically appear out of sympathy. Eventually an airport staff member scanned our baggage ticket and informed us that our missing case was still enjoying life in London and had not made it onto the plane.

We were sent to complete a lost luggage form where, interestingly, there were four women reporting missing cases while all the men in the travel parties had received theirs without issue. Typical. Clearly the universe decided men only need one pair of shorts and a phone charger.

Transport from Dubai Airport to Ras Al Khaimah

We had booked our transfers through Booking.com at a cost of £104 return. The journey to Ras Al Khaimah takes around an hour depending on traffic.

Our driver, Ahmad Bilal, was waiting for us with a sign displaying our names. Unfortunately, due to the luggage drama we were delayed leaving the airport and Ahmad sent several messages saying he may have to leave as he had already waited longer than expected. Thankfully he stayed, and eventually we were on our way.

Just as we thought the chaos was over, we discovered the roads near our hotel were closed due to a triathlon. Apparently while we were battling missing luggage, other people were voluntarily running and cycling for fun.

The driver could go no further, so we grabbed our cases and walked the remaining short distance to the hotel — our own unexpected final event of the triathlon.

Accommodation – Rixos Bab Al Bahr

Check in

We arrived at the hotel at around 11am, fully expecting the usual “your room will be ready at 3pm” speech along with several hours of wandering around looking dishevelled and sleep deprived. However, to our surprise, the reception staff were more than happy to check us in early.

Check-in was quick, easy and refreshingly painless. We were handed a leaflet explaining the hotel layout and the various services available — essentially a survival guide for finding pools, bars and restaurants without getting hopelessly lost.

Our check-in agent strongly advised us to book the specialist restaurants immediately to avoid disappointment, which sounded slightly dramatic at the time but turned out to be very sensible advice. As it was Debbie’s birthday, our restaurant for the first evening had already been pre-booked via email before travel — because nothing says romance like organising dinner reservations months in advance.

Finally, our cases (or more accurately Mike’s collection of luggage) were whisked away to the room by the concierge while we attempted to look relaxed and sophisticated despite having survived a night flight, missing luggage drama and an unexpected triathlon obstacle course.

Rooms

We had booked a premium room at a cost of £210 per night, which thankfully felt more “premium” than our Heathrow lounge experience. The room itself was huge, with a king-sized bed, desk and seating area — plenty of space to spread out all the holiday clothes we probably didn’t need to bring.

The bathroom was equally spacious and included a large walk-in shower, along with two sinks and mirrors which is a relationship-saving feature when two people are trying to get ready at the same time. Even better, the toilet was in a separate room, allowing one person to maintain at least a tiny bit of dignity while the other attempted to apply makeup or shave in peace.

Some parts of the room were starting to show their age a little. The wallpaper had several square patch repairs which looked like the room had survived a minor DIY emergency, and the desk had water stains that suggested previous guests may have either enjoyed a lot of coffee or attempted small-scale scientific experiments.

Our balcony overlooked the service road, so sadly we weren’t treated to sweeping sea views or dramatic sunsets — unless you particularly enjoy watching delivery vans. However, the balcony itself was extremely spacious and included a seating area and sun loungers, making it a pleasant spot to relax. If you prefer your holidays with an actual scenic view, sea-view rooms are available at an additional cost.

Pool scene

The hotel has four outdoor pools, three mainly aimed at families and children, and one peaceful adults-only pool for those wanting a break from inflatable toys and constant splashing.

The lifeguards took the adults-only rule very seriously and were quick to politely escort out any families attempting to sneak children into the area. It was like watching airport security, but for peace and quiet.

The family pools were much livelier, with one featuring several water slides. Naturally, despite being fully grown adults, we felt obliged to test them out ourselves. Purely for research purposes of course — although maintaining dignity while flying down a water slide at speed proved slightly challenging.

At weekends the adults-only pool suddenly came to life with dancers performing around the pool area alongside a DJ, creating much more of a holiday atmosphere. Unfortunately, this only seemed to happen at weekends, which was a little disappointing during the rest of the week when the vibe returned to what can only be described as “luxury meditation retreat.”

The music was definitely better when the dancers were there, but during the week even with the DJ present the playlists were extremely subdued. Rather than lively poolside tunes, the music sounded more like something you would hear while having hot stones placed on your back in a spa.

We completely appreciate that hotels need to cater for all tastes, but after chatting to several guests of different nationalities around the pool, there seemed to be a general international agreement that the music could have done with being a little more upbeat. Nothing too wild — just something slightly more energetic than “relaxing whale noises at sunset.”

Pool side drinks

The cocktails at the adults-only pool bar were genuinely excellent and quickly became one of our favourite parts of the holiday. Our personal favourites were the Pina Coladas, Strawberry Daiquiris and Whiskey Sours — mainly because they tasted dangerously good and made it seem perfectly reasonable to order “just one more.”

The drinks were served in plastic glasses, which is understandable around a pool unless the hotel wants guests diving for broken glass alongside inflatable flamingos. To be fair, the glasses still looked quite stylish and far nicer than the usual flimsy plastic cups you often get at all-inclusive resorts.

The pool bar staff were absolutely fantastic and seemed to work non-stop all day in the heat. Special mention has to go to Panjit, who somehow developed a sixth sense for empty glasses. More than once he appeared at our sun loungers with fresh drinks before we had even realised we needed them. Honestly, if he’d offered life advice as well, we probably would have taken it.

Being British, we naturally stood patiently waiting our turn at the bar like polite queue-loving citizens. Unfortunately, not all guests shared this approach. There were quite a few complaints around the pool about the rudeness of some people who seemed to treat ordering cocktails as if they were competing in an Olympic event. Thankfully, the staff remained calm, professional and impressively patient throughout.

Dining

Buffet restaurant

There was so much choice at this restaurant that attempting to describe it all would require its own separate website and possibly a small map. The restaurant featured numerous food stations serving a huge variety of dishes, meaning every lap around the buffet revealed something else you suddenly “needed” to try despite already balancing three full plates.

Each evening also featured themed nights with food from different countries around the world. One night you could be enjoying Italian dishes, the next sampling Asian cuisine, followed by desserts that somehow convinced you there was always room for more.

As the hotel catered for guests from many different nationalities, the food selection reflected this brilliantly.

Breakfast

If you’re from the UK and panic at the thought of going too long without a full English breakfast, fear not — you could sort of recreate one here. There were always hash browns, chicken sausages, beans, toast, boiled eggs, scrambled eggs and freshly fried eggs from the outdoor cooking station. It may not have been exactly like your local greasy spoon café back home, but it was close enough to keep British tourists emotionally stable.

There was also the usual selection of cereals, pastries, breads, fruit, meats and salads for those wanting to pretend they were being healthy before immediately returning for pastries.

The outdoor cooking station also served excellent freshly made omelettes, cooked exactly how you liked them. And for anyone wanting to start the day with a bit more excitement, there was even curry available for breakfast — because apparently some people wake up and think, “You know what would really help me relax by the pool today? A spicy curry at 8am.” Even though we did do this some mornings.

Lunch

At certain times during lunch the buffet restaurant could become a little hectic, with people wandering around clutching plates while trying to decide if they really needed another dessert (they did). Despite this, there was always somewhere to sit and eat.

The restaurant also had an adults-only section along with a lovely outdoor seating area, which quickly became our favourite spot. There was something very relaxing about sitting outside in the sunshine, eating far too much food while pretending calories don’t count on holiday.

As previously mentioned, the choice and quality of food was so good it’s difficult to fully do the restaurant justice. However, one area consistently defeated all our good intentions — the Indian food station. Both at lunch and dinner we would arrive determined to “try different things today,” only to somehow end up back at the Indian section loading our plates like it was our final meal.

To be fair, the food was absolutely delicious, so we felt no guilt whatsoever sitting outside, taking our time, admiring the view and eating enough curry to potentially concern our digestive systems later in the day.

All of the team in the restaurant worked tirelessly to ensure it was kept clean and tidy. They also watched out for when your drink was almost empty and cam to offer a generous top-up. One of the waiters in particular paid a lot of attention to ensuring guests had everything they needed – his name was Javaan.

Evening meal

We only went into the buffet restaurant on an evening once as we wanted to try all of the specialist restaurants. Again there was so much choice it was difficult to know what to choose.

Turkish Restaurant

This was our favourite of the speciality restaurants. We had booked this prior to arriving at the hotel due to it being Debbie’s birthday and we were not disappointed.

The Mezeen was absolutely the best. This consisted of hummus, busda badem (overnight soaked almonds), kopoglu (deep fried eggplants, yoghurt and tomato sauce), atom (roasted eggplants, dry red chilli and yoghurt), yaprak sarma (stuffed grape leaves, cherry and olive oil) and muhammara (roasted bell peppers, walnuts, bread crumbs, pomegranate molasses, virgin oil). We could have just eaten this as it was so nice. We then had slow-cooked Tandoori Kabab and the Hunkar Begendi (mashed eggplant bechamel, sauteed lamb) for our main courses – again this was delicious. Our mains were followed by baklava with ice cream and kazandibi (caramelised rolled pudding with Turkish ice cream).

Steak House Restaurant

At the restaurant we had the goulash soup and dynamite shrimp (spring onion and sriracha sauce). For mains we had beef tenderloin with creamy spinach mushrooms and jacket potato, and parmesan cheese with au jus and beef asado with the same sides. For desert we had passion fruit cheesecake and brownie.

There were so many amazing dining experiences at the Rixos Bab Al Bahr that it is hard to put in words what makes each place special as each restaurant provide a different experience. There were live musicians playing music every night in and outside of the restaurants which made for a fitting accompaniment to the tasty food.

Asian restaurant – Aja

The menu at the Aja restaurant is inspired by the flavours of China, Japan and Thailand. This restaurant around the corner and away from the main stage for the entertainment and therefore the dining experience was not quite the same as the other restaurants. Having said that the food is fantastic and the service was very attentive.

Toast n Burger

This is a lovely little place hidden away from the other facilities, overlooking the sea. The restaurant is open during the day and serves burgers, fries, hot dogs, chicken and onion rings. You can bring your own drinks from the beach bar or pool bar but they also serve alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks. Please be aware though that although the restaurant is practically on the beach and you are sitting outside you will still need to wear a top, both males and females. The only downside to this restaurant is that sometimes the service was extremely slow. We had to ask many times if they would come and take our orders.

Jeep Safari and Evening Meal in the Desert

We booked this excursion through Viator https://www.viator.com/tours/Ras-Al-Khaimah/RAK-Desert-Safari-and-BBQ-Dinner-with-pick-up/d25313-105187P1 at a cost of £76 for two people.

We were picked up from the front entrance of our hotel at 3.30pm in a modern comfy mini bus. There were two other pick ups from other hotels (a couple and a lady and her 7 year old daughter).

Camel ride

When we arrived at our destination we were given a drink of tea and some dates whilst we waited for others to arrive. Following this we were taken for an extremely short camel ride, with a photographer taking professional photos of the experience. They did not appear to be too happy when we took our own photos and the man handling the camel told us not to do so.

Sand boarding

After this we were given the opportunity to try out sand boarding which unfortunately proved to be a complete waste of time as when you stood on the boards they barely moved at all and remained stuck in the sane. However it was quite funny trying it out because it was so bad. At least we burned some calories climbing the rather steep hill.

Jeep safari

We were then taken back to a jeep for the jeep safari. This was great fun but not as hair-raising as some of the other jeep safaris we have been on. There were stops along the way to allow people to take photos of the scenery. The sunset was spectacular and well worth stopping for.

Camp

Following the jeep safari we were taking back to the camp. The camp is really well set up for the whole experience. There is also overnight accommodation if you wish to spend the night in the desert.

Food and drink

When we arrived back at camp we were able to sit where we wanted to to watch the show and have dinner. Here they sold both alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks which were reasonably priced.

We were pleasantly surprised at the meal as the food was of a decent quality compared to which you usually enjoy as part of this type of experience. We had previously tried out a similar experience in Egypt and the food there was very poor. Here you could choose from a wide range of salads, vegetables, potatoes and rice, chicken nuggets and sauces. There was also a BBQ area with freshly grilled chicken, meats and skewers – these were delicious.

Evening show

Once most people had eaten their meal the show began with a female dancer who was then followed by a traditional male dancer. Both incorporated a light show in to their acts which added to the entertainment as it was getting dark by this point. However the highlight of the show was the fire act involving swirling burning ropes around. This made for a spectacular show, especially when he ran up to the top of the hill and spun the burning ropes around in circles – we have never previously witnessed such a spectacle.

Summary of jeep safari

All of the staff and fellow guests were friendly and welcoming including the people on our minibus and driver. Although there were some things that could be improved – the sand boarding and not being able to take photos of the camel ride) the experience was really enjoyable – good food and excellent entertainment, and hence well worth the money.

Water sports

The hotel does offer some water sports activities which are chargeable (paragliding and jet skis). They also offer paddle boarding free of charge. We booked the paddle boarding at the activity centre and were told to be there at 8.30 the following morning. The paddle boarding was not as easy as it looked and Debbie managed to fall into the sea several times. In the end we decided to kneel on the board rather than stand up as this seemed to be the easier option.

Summary of Ras al Khaimah

We have been to Dubai before, staying in the centre, and therefore we wanted to try somewhere different. There isn’t loads to do outside of the hotel although you can visit the local shopping malls and the desert experience was enjoyable. If you wish to visit Dubai it costs approximately £50 each way in a taxi which isn’t too bad if you can team up with other people to fill a car. The hotel itself has a chilled out feel to it which is very pleasant but we would have enjoyed a bit more entertainment around the pool.

We have travelled to many all-inclusive hotels throughout the world and we can honestly say that the Rixos Bab al Bahr has the best dining experiences we have enjoyed. The added bonus for the is the stage surrounded by water and musicians playing instruments while you are dining. The music is low-key which greatly enhances the eating experience.

The staff at the Rixos were amazing and they worked tirelessly to ensure we had an amazing holiday.

The Rixos Bab Al Bahr is a luxury hotel but there are areas that need a bit of TLC. In the room there were places where the wallpaper had been ripped and also there were patches where they had tried to repair damage. At the back of the hotel there are grounds that are overgrowing and full of weeds that could do with a bit of attention.

Things to do

• Try the world’s longest zip line Jabel Jais (we did not do it and regret this!).
• Visit Dubai centre and go up the Burj Khalifa.
• Visit one of the shopping malls.
• Do the Jeep Safari.
• Visit Suwaidi Pearl Farm.
• Visit Ghost village.
• Take a boat ride to see Dubai from the water.

Top Tips

• When packing split your clothes between 2 suitcases.
• Carry some beach clothes in your hand luggage if you are arriving prior to check in time.
• Book a la carte restaurants as soon as you check in.
• Book excursions before you travel as this can work out cheaper.
• Be aware of the culture in Dubai and the United Arab Emirates.
• Dress appropriately in public places (ladies need to cover legs and shoulders). This is not required within the hotels.
• Check out government travel advice prior to travel https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/united-arab-emirates
• Check out other places we have stayed in the United Arab Emirates. Please click on following link Dubai
• Check out the weather below before travel as in the summer months it can get extremely hot and unbearable.

Weather