Istanbul

Travel to Istanbul

We took off from Manchester Airport on an afternoon EasyJet flight, feeling fancy with our pre-booked seats—a true luxury at £150 per person return. The catch? The fare only included a bag small enough to fit under the seat… ideally your own seat. Still, since we were only away for three nights, we embraced minimalist living—who needs wardrobe options when you can wear the same jeans in three different moods?

Executive lounge (Escape)

Before our flight, we decided to treat ourselves like the jet‑setters we clearly thought we were and booked into the Escape Lounge at Terminal 1 — a mere £36 each, which we justified as “an investment in relaxation” (and bacon). We booked directly with Manchester Airport, because nothing says luxury like cutting out the middleman.

After checking in at the front desk — trying our best to look like people who do this sort of thing all the time — we were ushered to our table, where breakfast awaited in all its glory. There was a full cooked spread: bacon, sausage, hash browns, beans, tomatoes and eggs (fried and scrambled, clearly catering to both adventurers and traditionalists).

As if that wasn’t enough to test our self‑control, there were breads, yoghurts, fruit, pastries and cereals — basically every food group that pairs well with guilt. By the time we’d finished “sampling” everything, we were fully ready to escape… straight into a food coma.

The lounge bar was so wonderfully quiet that getting a drink felt less like battling through a Friday night in Wetherspoons and more like having your own personal bartender on standby. Most drinks were included too, including sparkling wine in both white and rosé — because apparently nothing says “airport luxury” quite like sipping free fizz at 10am without judgement.

The food changed from breakfast to lunch whilst we were in the lounge. This included a variety of hot and cold food including sandwiches, crisps, cottage pie and a Thai chicken curry.

We arrived at the airport at 9.30pm Istanbul time, slightly tired but still optimistic and ready to begin our Turkish adventure. Finding the man holding a sign with our name on it was surprisingly easy — which, in hindsight, was probably the last thing that went smoothly that evening.

Unfortunately, after this triumphant moment of recognition, we then entered what felt like the extended director’s cut of Waiting for a Driver. Over 50 minutes later, including a trek down to the pick-up point worthy of an episode of Race Across the World, our transport finally arrived. We had booked the transfer through Booking.com at a cost of £30 each way, and at this point we were beginning to wonder whether the driver was travelling from Istanbul via Greece.

To be fair, once he did arrive, our driver — Muhammed Zahit Ozkilic, employed by Prime — was absolutely lovely. Friendly, helpful and probably the calmest person involved in the entire evening. On the plus side, the vehicle itself was luxurious, spotless and spacious enough to stretch out comfortably while we tried to convince ourselves the night could only get better from here. Spoiler alert: it could not.

Accommodation Nightmare

The journey into the old town of Istanbul took around 50 minutes. We had specifically chosen accommodation in this area because it was close to many of the main attractions we wanted to visit. Through Booking.com we had booked what appeared to be a spacious apartment for three nights at a cost of £160 — a bargain, we thought. Ah yes… the innocence.

The first warning sign came when we tried contacting the owners the day before travel through Booking.com and received no reply. During the journey from the airport we tried several more times, again with no response. Still, we remained hopeful. After all, what are holidays without a little unnecessary anxiety?

Then we arrived.

Except… there was no apartment building. No reception. No sign. Nothing. The address appeared to lead us to thin air. At this point it was after midnight, we were tired, confused and standing in the middle of Istanbul wondering if perhaps the apartment existed only spiritually.

We contacted Booking.com who informed us they would get back to us within 24 hours — which was incredibly reassuring considering we currently had nowhere to sleep except possibly a pavement near the Blue Mosque.

Thankfully, our driver Muhammed was an absolute star and genuinely tried his best to help us. He asked numerous locals if they knew of the apartment, but nobody had ever heard of it. This confirmed what we had already started to suspect: the apartment was about as real as my plans to pack light for a holiday.

It was clearly a scam, yet despite all of this, Booking.com have refused to refund the booking cost. Considering we had been loyal customers for years, we were far from impressed.

New accommodation at the Glorious Hotel

After discovering that our original “apartment” existed only in the imagination of a scammer, we then faced the delightful challenge of trying to find a hotel in Istanbul after midnight. Unsurprisingly, many places were either full or looked like the sort of establishment where you’d leave with fewer possessions than you arrived with.

Eventually, after what felt like a late-night episode of The Amazing Race: Istanbul Edition, we managed to secure a room at the Glorious Hotel at a cost of £180 for 3 nights. Thankfully, our wonderful driver Muhammed stayed with us the entire time, driving us around and refusing to abandon two stranded tourists wandering Istanbul with suitcases and rapidly fading patience. At this point he deserved honorary tour guide status — or possibly sainthood.

Rooms

The rooms at the hotel were fairly basic and on the cosy side — and by cosy, I mean if you opened your suitcase fully you risked blocking the fire exit. However, they were perfectly adequate for what we needed and, most importantly, they actually existed, which already put them ahead of our original accommodation.

The rooms were cleaned daily to a very high standard and fresh towels were provided every day too, which always makes you feel slightly more luxurious than you actually are. While we didn’t have the spacious apartment we had originally planned for, the rooms were comfortable enough for a city break where most of your time is spent out exploring (or recovering from accommodation trauma).

Wellness Area

One thing we absolutely did not expect was to discover a surprisingly impressive wellness area hidden away in the hotel basement like some sort of secret spa bunker.

For an additional charge, guests can use the sauna, steam room and traditional Turkish bath, with a variety of massage and beauty treatment packages available. Prices started from around 60 euros, which was actually very reasonable considering everything included.

The area itself was calm, relaxing and honestly the perfect place to recover after dragging your luggage around Istanbul questioning your life choices. If we had been staying longer, we definitely would have booked a treatment. It genuinely felt like discovering a little hidden gem tucked away beneath the hotel — proof that sometimes the best surprises are found underground in Istanbul… preferably not alongside your missing apartment.

Location

The hotel was located within around a 20-minute walk of the main sights in the Sultanahmet area, which turned out to be ideal for us. Before arriving, we had considered buying tickets for one of the hop-on hop-off buses, mainly because nothing says “tourist” quite like sitting on the top deck trying not to lose your sunglasses.

However, once we got there, we quickly realised the best way to explore Istanbul was simply on foot. We do enjoy walking when visiting new places, partly because you discover far more hidden streets, shops and cafés — and partly because it helps justify the amount of bread and baklava consumed on holiday.

Walking around also meant we stumbled across all sorts of things we would probably have missed from a bus, including tiny side streets, local markets and approximately 47 cats who clearly considered themselves official city tour guides.

For attractions slightly further afield, we used Uber which we found surprisingly reasonable compared to UK prices. It was quite refreshing to complete a journey without needing to remortgage the house afterwards.

Food and Drink

On an evening we usually ended up in the hotel restaurant bar for a relaxed drink before bed. A glass of wine and a bottle of beer came to around £10, which for a hotel was actually pretty reasonable — especially considering airport prices nowadays can leave you financially recovering for weeks.

One of the nicest unexpected parts of the trip was meeting a lovely group of Bulgarian guests who were also staying at the hotel. Each evening somehow turned into a little international nightcap gathering despite us all speaking different languages.

Thankfully, Google Translate stepped in like the hero nobody knew they needed. Conversations involved a lot of phones being passed around the table, dramatic facial expressions and occasional confusion, but somehow we all managed to communicate perfectly well — proof that wine, beer and technology really can bring people together.

We decided to try the hotel breakfast on our first morning since it was included in the price — and as any traveller knows, “included” food somehow feels impossible to turn down, even when you’re not entirely sure what half of it is.

Unfortunately, the breakfast wasn’t really to our taste. Most of the guests staying at the hotel were Turkish or Bulgarian, so the breakfast was very much catered towards them, which is completely fair enough when you’re visiting another country. It’s always good to experience local culture… even if at 8am your brain is desperately searching for toast and a brew.

Thankfully, eating out for breakfast in Istanbul was incredibly reasonable, with plenty of cafés and restaurants offering all sorts of options nearby. And honestly, when in Turkey, there’s apparently nothing wrong with starting your day with a doner kebab. Forget cereal — nothing says “ready for sightseeing” quite like questionable breakfast decisions involving grilled meat before 10am.

Sightseeing by foot

Grand Bazaar

Our first sightseeing stop in Istanbul was the famous Grand Bazaar — one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world and apparently one of the very first shopping malls ever created. Proof, if any was needed, that humans have been impulse-buying things they don’t need for centuries.

As it was a Saturday, the Bazaar was absolutely heaving with people from every corner of the globe. If you dislike crowds, personal space invasion or being enthusiastically invited into shops every seven seconds, then this may not be your ideal relaxing afternoon stroll. At times the walkways were so packed that moving forward became less “shopping experience” and more “slow-moving human traffic jam.”

The shopkeepers were incredibly persistent and seemed to possess a supernatural ability to spot tourists from 400 metres away. Before you knew it, you were apparently best friends with someone trying to sell you rugs, lamps, handbags, spices and possibly a small kingdom.

The range of things available in the Bazaar is honestly endless. Jewellery, clothing, rugs, homeware, spices, food, footwear — you can buy practically anything here. I’m fairly certain if we’d looked hard enough, someone would have sold us a camel and thrown in a free keyring.

One important thing to remember when shopping in the Bazaar: never accept the first price. Negotiating is all part of the experience and, oddly enough, quite good fun once you get over the awkwardness of pretending to walk away dramatically while secretly hoping they call you back.

Not far from the Grand Bazaar we discovered a most amazing doughnut shop which sold very delicious doughnuts with a range of different flavours. The shop is on Tahmis Sk. not too far away from the Galata Bridge.

Blue Mosque

The stunning Blue Mosque, also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, was built in the early 17th century and is still a fully functioning mosque today. Unlike many famous attractions around the world that charge you the equivalent of a small mortgage payment to enter, access to the mosque is completely free.

From the outside the building is absolutely breathtaking, with its huge domes and towering minarets dominating the skyline. Inside, it somehow becomes even more impressive. The intricate details, chandeliers and famous blue tiles make it one of those places where you genuinely stop talking for a few minutes — partly out of respect and partly because you’re busy staring upwards trying not to walk into anybody.

There are a few rules before entering, which are important to respect. Women need to cover their hair and make sure shoulders and legs are covered, while everyone must remove their shoes before going inside. This led to the slightly awkward but universal tourist experience of trying to quickly untie footwear while balancing on one leg amongst hundreds of other confused visitors doing exactly the same thing.

Hagia Sophia

The incredible Hagia Sophia is one of Istanbul’s most famous landmarks and has had quite the identity crisis over the centuries. Originally built around 360 AD as an Orthodox Christian church, it later became a mosque, was then transformed into a museum, and has since reverted back into a mosque again. This building has reinvented itself more times than Madonna.

It is undoubtedly one of the most popular tourist attractions in Istanbul, and judging by the crowds outside, it seemed the entire world had decided to visit on the same day as us. The building itself is absolutely breathtaking, with its enormous dome and dramatic architecture dominating the skyline. Even if you know absolutely nothing about history, you still find yourself standing there staring up at it thinking, “Well… that’s a bit impressive.”

You can buy tickets to go inside, but when we arrived the queue was absolutely gigantic. And not just a “slight wait” kind of queue — this was the sort of line where people ahead of you probably had time to form friendships, start families and discuss pension plans before reaching the entrance.

As our time in Istanbul was limited, we decided not to go inside on this occasion. Partly because we wanted to see more of the city and partly because neither of us fancied ageing visibly while waiting in line.

Still, even seeing Hagia Sophia from the outside was well worth the visit. Plus, by avoiding the queue we gained extra time for our other important Istanbul activities: getting slightly lost, admiring cats and searching for food every 20 minutes.

Galata Tower

The famous Galata Tower is now a museum and gives its name to the trendy Galata area of Istanbul. Originally built in the 13th century, it was once the tallest building in the city — which must have been quite impressive at a time when most people’s skyline consisted mainly of roofs and the occasional ambitious pigeon.

Unfortunately, when we visited, the tower was covered in renovation work, making it slightly difficult to appreciate its full beauty. In fact, most of our photos looked less like “historic Istanbul landmark” and more like “large medieval building site.”

Still, even partially hidden behind scaffolding, the tower remained impressive and the surrounding Galata area was well worth exploring. The streets around it were full of cafés, shops and steep hills guaranteed to make you question your fitness levels within approximately three minutes.

Galata Bridge

The busy Galata Bridge connects the old and new parts of the European side of Istanbul and is far more than just a bridge — it’s practically a full-time social event.

What surprised us most was the sheer number of fishermen lined along both sides of the bridge. There were so many fishing rods sticking out over the water that at times it looked less like a bridge and more like some sort of giant porcupine balancing over the Bosphorus.

Considering the constant stream of boats passing underneath, it was honestly a miracle that the fishing lines didn’t end up tangled around passing ferries, tour boats or unsuspecting tourists. We spent a good amount of time watching in amazement, fully expecting at least one fisherman to accidentally reel in public transport.

The bridge itself is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of Istanbul, with fantastic views across the water and plenty going on around you. Just be careful where you walk — dodging fishing rods quickly becomes an unexpected part of the sightseeing experience.

Sightseeing by boat

We booked a boat trip through Viator at a cost of £22 for two people, which we thought was pretty decent value considering it involved a cruise around one of the world’s most famous waterways and not just a paddle boat on a local duck pond.

We were instructed to meet at 12.20pm near the Blue Mosque. Thankfully, the company had the foresight to send a photo of the exact meeting point because Google Maps decided to play its usual holiday game of “close enough.” The address it provided took us around 20 metres away, which doesn’t sound much until you’re standing in a packed tourist area wondering if you’ve accidentally joined the wrong excursion.

After waiting around for about 15 minutes, our guide finally appeared and began leading the group through the busy streets towards the harbour where the boat was moored. This part of the experience felt less like a relaxing sightseeing tour and more like participating in a very stressed-out school trip. With crowds everywhere and people constantly stopping suddenly for photos, it basically turned into organised chaos. At one point it genuinely felt like we were being herded through Istanbul like slightly confused cattle.

Eventually we reached the boat, only to discover the seating area was absolutely packed. The seats were so close together that sitting down comfortably required the flexibility of a yoga instructor and the personal space expectations of a sardine. We ended up with seats in the middle of the boat but quickly realised there wasn’t enough room to enjoy the journey properly.

In the end, we stood for the entire trip — which actually turned out to be the better option anyway, as it gave us far better views of the sights along the Bosphorus. Plus, standing meant we avoided accidentally becoming permanently wedged between two strangers for the duration of the cruise.

Bosphorus Bridge

The impressive Bosphorus Bridge was opened in 1973 after three years of construction and stretches across the Bosphorus Strait, linking Europe and Asia together — which is quite a useful shortcut really, considering swimming across probably isn’t ideal.

At the time it was built, it was the longest suspension bridge in Europe, proudly holding the title until the Humber Bridge came along and stole its crown. A bit like being the tallest child in school until somebody has a growth spurt over summer holidays.

Even today the bridge is an impressive sight, especially when lit up at night

Maiden’s Tower

The picturesque Maiden’s Tower, also known as Leander’s Tower, sits on a tiny island around 200 metres from the southern entrance of the Bosphorus Strait. Standing alone in the water, it honestly looks like something straight out of a fairy tale — or possibly the world’s most inconvenient location for popping out to buy milk.

These days you can actually catch a boat over to the tower and enjoy a meal there, which sounds incredibly romantic and far more sophisticated than most of our usual holiday dining decisions.

Unfortunately, due to our limited time in Istanbul, we didn’t get chance to visit properly, which was a shame because eating dinner on a tiny tower in the middle of the Bosphorus definitely sounds like the sort of thing you tell people about repeatedly afterwards whether they asked or not.

Ortakoy Mosque

The beautiful Ortaköy Mosque is known as the smallest mosque in Istanbul and was built between 1854 and 1856. What it lacks in size, however, it more than makes up for in charm and location.

Sitting right on Ortaköy Pier Square beside the Bosphorus, the mosque almost looks too picturesque to be real — like someone carefully placed it there purely for Instagram purposes long before Instagram even existed.

The surrounding square is a very popular tourist area packed with cafés, food stalls and people taking approximately 700 photos from slightly different angles. Between the mosque, the waterfront views and the nearby Bosphorus Bridge, it’s one of those places where you can easily lose track of time… mainly because you keep stopping every few minutes to take “just one more picture.”

Dolmabahce Palace

The magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace was built between 1843 and 1856 and served as home to six different Sultans between 1856 and 1924, before ownership eventually transferred to the Turkish Republic.

And honestly, if you were a Sultan, this is exactly the sort of place you’d want to live. The palace is outrageously grand, packed with chandeliers, marble, gold detailing and enough luxury to make modern celebrity mansions look a bit underwhelming. It’s basically the 19th-century equivalent of saying, “Money is no object.”

Even from the outside, the building is absolutely stunning and easily one of the most spectacular sights in Istanbul. Looking at it, you quickly realise the Sultans were not fans of minimalism. There’s nothing subtle about this palace whatsoever — it’s all very much “go big or go home,” except in this case, home was the gigantic palace.

Summary of boat trip

Overall, the boat trip was definitely worth the money we paid and gave us the chance to see some absolutely fantastic sights across Istanbul from the water. We managed to get some great photos too, helped enormously by the bright, dry weather — a rare travel blessing that instantly makes everything look more expensive and glamorous than it probably was.

That said, if we return to Istanbul and decide to do another cruise, we would probably pay a little extra to depart from one of the main ports. The pier used for this trip was a bit tucked away and felt slightly like we’d been led to a secret underground boating society. In fact, the harbour was so small and quiet that our boat appeared to be the only one there, which briefly made us wonder whether we’d accidentally booked ourselves onto some sort of pirate excursion.

Still, once we were actually out on the water, all of the earlier chaos was quickly forgotten. The views along the Bosphorus were stunning, the atmosphere was lovely and standing for most of the trip probably helped burn off at least half a kebab.

Evening cruise, meal and show

We booked this evening dinner cruise through Viator and paid extra for the unlimited alcohol package, bringing the total to £75 for two people. Considering this included transport, dinner, entertainment, drinks and a cruise along the Bosphorus, we thought it sounded like a bargain — or at the very least, cheaper than a night out at home.

Our transport arrived at the hotel around 7pm, although due to Istanbul’s wonderfully chaotic narrow streets and one-way system, the coach couldn’t actually reach the hotel entrance. Instead, we had to wander a couple of streets away to find it, dragging ourselves and our evening glamour through traffic and potholes like contestants on a budget version of The Apprentice.

There were several other hotel pick-ups before we reached the harbour, and the roads were absolutely packed at that time of night. Istanbul traffic appears to operate on a system best described as “good luck everyone.” Thankfully, despite the chaos, we still arrived with plenty of time to board the boat.

Once onboard, we were quickly shown to our table which turned out to be in a prime position directly opposite the dance floor — excellent for the show, slightly dangerous once the unlimited drinks started flowing. It also became clear fairly quickly that the organisers had cleverly grouped the alcohol drinkers together while those sticking to soft drinks appeared to be seated elsewhere. Essentially, one side of the boat was “peaceful sightseeing cruise” while the other slowly evolved into “office Christmas party energy.”

The atmosphere onboard was brilliant. Almost every seat was taken, creating a lively buzz throughout the evening, and you were free to wander around the boat whenever you liked. We regularly headed out onto the deck to admire the illuminated skyline of Istanbul and take photos while pretending we were starring in a glamorous travel documentary rather than just trying not to spill wine in the wind.

Food and drink

Dinner began with a tasty selection of meze and fresh salad, followed by a choice of chicken or fish served with vegetables and rice. Dessert was baklava, because apparently Turkish people believe pudding should contain approximately 97% syrup — and honestly, we fully supported this decision.

The food was actually far better than we expected considering the number of people onboard, and the service throughout the evening was impressively efficient. Nobody was left waiting too long, which is particularly important when unlimited drinks are involved.

Speaking of drinks, the package included local beers, wines, spirits and the famous Turkish speciality, Raki — a drink which somehow tastes both strong and dangerous at the same time. Surprisingly, the wine was actually very pleasant, which genuinely shocked us slightly considering what we had paid for the entire experience.

We also had an amazing waiter — we think his name was Bozat (apologies if not!). He constantly checked that we were enjoying ourselves and ensured our glasses were never empty for more than about 14 seconds. The man worked harder than most people at the gym.

The show

Female dancers

The entertainment started with a group of female dancers emerging onto the dance floor in beautiful costumes, and they continued to appear throughout the evening in a variety of different outfits and performances. Their dancing was fantastic to watch and they interacted brilliantly with the audience, creating a really fun atmosphere onboard.

Having a table directly opposite the dance floor meant we had an excellent view of the performances all evening. It also meant there was absolutely nowhere to hide whenever audience participation looked likely, which added a slight edge of fear to the entertainment.

Male dancers

The male dancers somehow managed to be even more energetic than the female performers, which honestly seemed physically impossible given the amount of spinning, jumping and dramatic arm movements already taking place. At one point we were exhausted just watching them while sitting down with a drink.

Part of their performance included a knife-throwing act involving several extremely nervous-looking audience volunteers. Nothing says “relaxing holiday evening cruise” quite like watching strangers stand very still while sharp objects fly past them. Thankfully, despite a few tense moments and several faces clearly reconsidering their life choices, everyone survived the experience without injury.

The male dancers also changed costumes throughout the evening, appearing in a variety of outfits that somehow became increasingly dramatic as the night went on. On several occasions both the male and female dancers performed together, creating a lively atmosphere that felt part traditional performance, part nightclub and part organised chaos — especially once the unlimited drinks had started to fully kick in around the room.

Belly dancer

One of the highlights of the evening was undoubtedly the belly dancer, who completely owned the room from the moment she appeared. She moved gracefully from table to table, dancing in front of mainly the male guests and encouraging them to tuck money into her costume — an activity some of the men seemed far too enthusiastic to participate in.

The expressions around the room were priceless, ranging from awkward embarrassment to absolute delight, depending largely on who was sat next to their spouse at the time.

She also performed a short solo routine on the dance floor, and honestly, her ability to move her hips and stomach in ways that didn’t seem physically possible was genuinely impressive. Watching her dance made most of us realise we struggle enough just getting off the sofa without making strange noises.

Gangnam Style Lookalike?

One of the funniest moments of the evening came when a man in his late 40s or early 50s suddenly took to the dance floor with the energy of a teenager and absolutely no fear of embarrassment.

What started as a bit of dancing quickly turned into a full performance as he made his way from table to table entertaining the guests. The highlight was when Gangnam Style started playing and he launched into the routine with complete commitment while the whole boat cheered and laughed along.

By this point everyone was in great spirits — even the people on the non-alcohol package seemed ready to join in. It was one of those random holiday moments that ended up being one of the most memorable parts of the night.

Sightseeing on cruise

Although Istanbul looked wonderful all lit up at night especially with the lights reflecting on the water it was quite difficult to get any decent photographs using only our iPhones. I am sure with a better camera than ours you would be able to take some amazing photos.

Summary of evening cruise

Overall, the whole experience was brilliant and excellent value for money. It ticked all the right boxes — good food, unlimited drinks, lively entertainment, stunning views and the chance to cruise along the Bosphorus feeling slightly more glamorous than we actually are.

There was never a dull moment, whether it was admiring the illuminated Istanbul skyline, watching the dancers, avoiding eye contact during audience participation, or cheering on the unexpected Gangnam Style performance of the night.

It was one of those evenings where everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves, the atmosphere was fantastic and the drinks definitely helped improve people’s dance confidence levels.

We would absolutely recommend this evening cruise to anyone visiting Istanbul — just prepare yourself for a night of food, fun and possibly witnessing strangers make questionable dance decisions.

Bars and Restaurants in Istanbul

Restaurants

When it comes to eating out in Istanbul, you are absolutely spoiled for choice. There are so many restaurants, cafés and kebab houses scattered across the city that choosing where to eat can quickly become a full-time job in itself.

Some of the more popular restaurants overlook the Bosphorus, offering incredible views while you dine — because apparently your kebab tastes even better when accompanied by a sunset and a million-pound view.

As you might expect, there are endless Turkish kebab restaurants to choose from, ranging from cheap and cheerful little cafés to places so fancy you suddenly feel underdressed ordering chips. The smell of grilled meat seems to follow you everywhere in Istanbul, which is both wonderful and extremely dangerous for your waistband.

One of our favourite meals was in a small family-run restaurant in the Fatih district called Erciyes Kiraathanesi, just off Kadirga Limani Cd. It was nothing overly fancy, but the food was delicious, the prices were very reasonable and it had that lovely authentic feel that makes you think, “Why did we almost pay triple somewhere with a rooftop and mood lighting?”

Bars

Most of the bars in Istanbul seem to be concentrated in the lively Beyoğlu area of the city. If you’re looking for nightlife, this is definitely the place to head, as the area is packed with bars, cafés, restaurants, coffee shops and enough people to make you wonder if anyone in Istanbul actually sleeps.

The streets are busy from morning right through until late evening, creating a fun atmosphere with music, food smells and constant activity everywhere you look. It’s the sort of place where you go out for “just one drink” and somehow end up still wandering around three hours later looking for snacks.

One thing we quickly discovered was that while alcohol is served in most restaurants and hotels across Istanbul, finding an actual dedicated bar outside of Beyoğlu was surprisingly difficult. At times it felt like we were on some sort of adult treasure hunt searching for somewhere just to sit and have a drink that didn’t also serve kebabs, coffee or breakfast.

Drink prices in Istanbul bars are generally fairly similar to UK prices, although you do need to be careful when ordering imported drinks unless you enjoy mild financial shock alongside your beverage.

We discovered this the hard way in the Celtic Irish Bar when we were charged £9.50 for a small bottle of cider. At that price, we half expected it to be served in a crystal glass by someone playing the violin. Meanwhile, a pint of local lager cost only £4.70, which suddenly seemed like one of the best bargains in the city.

The lesson here is simple: when in Istanbul, drink local — your bank account will thank you for it.

We also visited the Fred bar where cocktails were around £4 each and certain lagers were only £3 a pint.

We also visited the Tower Pub which is just around the corner from the Galata Tower. It is a typical English Pub which stocked a number of craft beers and was showing Premier League football.

Summary of Istanbul

Although we managed to squeeze an incredible amount into our trip, our short stay meant there were still plenty of things we didn’t get chance to do. Istanbul is one of those cities where every corner seems to reveal something interesting — whether it’s a historic building, a hidden café, a rooftop restaurant or simply another place selling kebabs bigger than your head.

The city is vibrant, chaotic, beautiful and full of character, and we fully intend to return for a long weekend in the future… preferably with slightly more time and slightly fewer accommodation-related dramas.

The only real downside to the trip was our experience with Booking.com, who happily took payment for an apartment that appeared to exist only in another dimension. Despite the property seemingly being impossible to find because it simply didn’t exist, we are still battling to get our money refunded.

A few days after returning home, we watched an episode of ITV’s Tonight Show featuring another family who had booked a villa through Booking.com that also turned out not to exist.

Things to do in Istanbul

• Visit the Blue Mosque
• Visit Hagia Sophia
• Visit Grand Bazar
• Visit the Dolmabahce Palace
• Sample the local cuisine
• Visit Galata Tower
• Take a boat trip by day
• Enjoy the evening cruise with a show, food and drink
• If bars are your thing visit the Beyoglu area of Istanbul
• Visit the old town
• Visit Princess Islands especially in the Summer months.

Top Tips

• Check out the area you are wanting to stay in before booking as areas in Istanbul vary a lot.
• Ensure you book your accommodation with a reputable company.
• Check reviews of accommodation before booking – if there are no reviews we suggest don’t book.
• Check your travel company out on Trust Pilot before booking.
• If booking a daytime boat trip, book from the main ports as they are more convenient to get to.
• Book all excursions/experiences though know companies with good reviews.
• In busy areas keep your valuables safe as there are a fair few pickpockets in Istanbul.
• In the Grand Bazaar be aware of hassle from store owners. Be polite and keep walking if you don’t want to buy anything.
• The Grand Bazaar is very busy especially on a Saturday and extremely congested. Ladies keep your handbags close to you at all times.
• Uber works here and a relatively safe way to travel – and cheap!
• Walking is the best way to see the Old Town if you are able.
• Check out government advice when visiting Istanbul https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/turkey
• Check out weather below for best time to visit Istanbul

Weather

Temp – Celsius Rain – mm	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
High Temp	8	8	11	16	20	26	28	28	25	19	14	10
Low Temp	4	4	5	8	12	17	19	19	16	13	9	6
Rainfall	100	70	50	60	40	30	30	20	50	60	100	100
Number of days	14	12	13	11	9	5	3	4	8	10	13	17