Seal Island

Ah, Mossel Bay. The name alone evokes images of quaint harbours, sea breezes, and those adorable seals we’d booked to see months in advance. It was supposed to be a smooth operation: hop off the cruise ship via tender, waltz into the office of Romonza Boat Trips, and glide over the ocean like David Attenborough on holiday. But as we soon discovered… plans are just suggestions the universe politely ignores.

We arrived bright-eyed and full of maritime enthusiasm. But as we approached the Romonza office, something felt off. Namely: the complete absence of any human life. No staff, no signs, not even a sleepy cat on a windowsill. Just us and a closed door.

Naturally, we did what any modern traveller would do in such a crisis — we whipped out our phones and called them. Several times. Which was mostly just an exercise in listening to our own ringtones.

Still determined, we headed to the harbour to see if we could find their boat — and lo and behold, there it was, the good ship Romonza, looking sadly still and unmistakably broken. Our suspicions were confirmed by a nearby man on another boat, who said (and I quote): “Yeah, that one’s been busted for days.”

Ah, the joys of proactive communication.

But all was not lost! The helpful stranger-slash-boat-operator offered to take us to Seal Island himself. At £20 a head, it felt like a bargain — or at least, a slightly risky but adventurous bargain. While we waited for the rest of his mystery crew to materialise, we were joined by fellow shipmates arriving off the tender. Apparently, this was becoming the unofficial official seal tour.

At around 9:30 AM, the sun hadn’t quite committed to its duties, and the wind had clearly overachieved. But as we approached Seal Island, all complaints were silenced. There they were — thousands of seals, basking, barking, and bouncing in the waves. Many had pups with them, as January is prime seal-maternity ward season. It was magical… and very, very smelly. But mostly magical.

Romonza boat tours did apologise and refund our monies.

Of course, we only had mobile phones to capture the moment, which was a bit like trying to film a BBC wildlife documentary with a potato. Still, we made do with zoomed-in blur and artistic blurs we’d later call “seal-shaped impressions.”

Kaai 4 Braai Beach Bar

Once back on land, we wandered the harbour briefly, but unless you have a burning interest in parked boats and curious gulls, there wasn’t much to see. That’s when we discovered Kaai 4 Braai, a beach bar so delightful it deserves its own postcard. Nestled on the water’s edge, with open flames grilling food and the sun finally pulling its weight, we had found paradise.

Even better? The cruise ship had run out of cider (a cruel twist of fate), but Kaai 4 Braai had plenty — cold, refreshing, and gloriously affordable thanks to South African prices. We basked in the sunshine, drank cider, watched the waves, and laughed more than should be legally allowed.

Some of us indulged in the food, cooked over open fire with delicious aromas wafting by. The presentation? Top-notch. The value? Ridiculously good. The vibe? Immaculate.

As more people from the ship trickled in, it became a full-blown social event — like a floating pub relocated to land for a few sunny hours. Eventually, the time came to catch the tender boat back, slightly sun-kissed and thoroughly satisfied.

So no, our original Seal Island tour didn’t go as planned. But in the end, we got the seals, we got the cider, and we got a story far better than anything we could’ve booked in advance.

Moral of the story? Always expect the unexpected… and never underestimate the power of a beach bar.

Travel Tips

💰 Currency & Money Matters

• Local currency: South African Rand (ZAR or R). Notes come in denominations of R10, R20, R50, R100, and R200.
• Exchange rate: As of early 2025, £1 = approximately R23 (but rates fluctuate, so check before you travel).
• Cards vs Cash: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted, even at smaller restaurants and shops. Visa and Mastercard are most commonly used.
• ATMs: Easily found in town and at major shopping centres, but use those in secure locations (inside malls or banks).
• Tipping: Tipping is expected — 10–15% at restaurants, R5–R10 for petrol attendants or car guards, and around R20 for local tour guides.

🦺 Safety Tips

Mossel Bay is generally considered one of the safer towns along the Garden Route, but here are a few smart tips:

• Stay aware: Stick to well-lit and busier areas, especially at night. Don’t flash valuables or large amounts of cash.
• Use common sense: Avoid walking alone in quiet areas after dark.
• Lock your belongings: Whether you’re in a car or accommodation, always lock doors and keep valuables out of sight.
• Beach safety: Swim at designated beaches with lifeguards. The Indian Ocean can have strong currents — look out for flags and signs.
• Scams/Street hustlers: Rare in Mossel Bay, but be polite and firm if someone offers unsolicited “help” or tries to sell you something aggressively.

🚤 Local Transport & Getting Around

• On foot: The harbour and beachfront area is very walkable.
• Uber/Bolt: Available in larger cities, but less common here. Local taxis (not metered) are available but often need to be pre-arranged.
• Car hire: If you’re planning to explore beyond Mossel Bay (e.g., to Oudtshoorn or Knysna), hiring a car is a great idea. Roads are generally in good condition.

🐬 What to Do

• Seal Island Tour: Book with a reputable operator (and maybe double-check the boat is operational 😅).
• Diaz Museum Complex: Learn about early Portuguese explorers and see a life-size replica of Bartholomeu Dias’ ship.
• Santos Beach: Great for a swim or sunbathe — it’s Blue Flag certified.
• Kaai 4 Braai: A must-visit beach bar for local food, cold drinks, and a killer view.
• Shark Cage Diving: For the brave — done from nearby towns, but Mossel Bay has a few operators.

🧥 Weather Watch

• Summer (Dec–Feb): Warm and sunny — perfect beach weather. Pack sunscreen and a hat.
• Winter (Jun–Aug): Mild with occasional rain. A light jacket will do.
• Wind: Mossel Bay can get breezy, especially in the mornings, so bring a windbreaker for boat trips.

🎁 Local Souvenirs

• Handcrafted curios, beadwork, local wines, biltong (South African dried meat), and aloe-based skincare products are all good buys.

👋 Final Tip

South Africans are friendly and welcoming, especially in Mossel Bay. A smile and a friendly greeting go a long way!

Weather

Barney’s Tavern

We arrived in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, aboard the Norwegian Dawn cruise ship at around 7pm—perfect timing for a birthday dinner! It was my birthday (Debbie), and our group of six (three couples) had already booked a table at Barney’s Tavern, a well-known beachfront restaurant.

We had been advised not to walk around the port area at night and to rely on Uber or pre-arranged tours. Taking that advice to heart, we hopped in a quick, easy Uber and were soon headed for what turned out to be a very memorable evening.

Barney’s Tavern is a much-loved local gem located right on Hobie Beach, along Port Elizabeth’s picturesque Marine Drive. With balcony seating overlooking the beach and Indian Ocean, it’s a spot that instantly sets the mood for a relaxed, fun evening.

When we arrived, the place was buzzing—Buy-One-Get-One-Free Burger Night had drawn quite the crowd, and the vibe was vibrant and welcoming. The live DJ added to the atmosphere, and the staff, despite the busy scene, were attentive and friendly.

One of the main reasons we chose Barney’s is its diverse and extensive menu, which offered something for everyone in our group. Here’s a taste of what they serve:

• Burgers – from classic beef to chicken, veggie, and fully loaded gourmet options
• Seafood – including fresh fish, calamari, prawns, and seafood platters
• Steaks and grills – ribeye, T-bone, ribs, and combo platters
• Tapas and starters – great for sharing over drinks
• Pizzas – thin-crust, wood-fired, with plenty of topping options
• Salads – fresh and generously portioned, ideal for lighter appetites

Of course, we tried to sample a bit of everything… which resulted in a table completely covered in food. We underestimated the portion sizes (rookie mistake), and despite our best efforts, we simply couldn’t finish it all. That said, it was all absolutely delicious.

The cocktails at Barney’s are also worth raving about. These aren’t your average pre-mixed drinks—they’re freshly made to order, using real fruit, herbs, and quality spirits. Each drink felt like it had been made just for us, with great attention to detail. From classic mojitos and margaritas to house specials, every sip was a treat.

And let’s not forget the “Snail Trail”, a somewhat infamous local cocktail presented to me for my birthday: six different spirits around the edge of a tray, with all six combined into a seventh central shot. We all had a try… and we all agreed it was best left unfinished. Strong doesn’t even begin to cover it.

After dinner, we moved to the balcony to enjoy a few more drinks under the stars, listening to the music and taking in the view. The whole experience was made even better when the bill arrived—just £30 per couple for all that food and drink. Incredible value.

Kragga Kamma Game Reserve

The next morning, it was time for a change of pace. We met up with one of the other couples and set off to Kragga Kamma Game Reserve, just a short 20–25-minute drive from the port.

Kragga Kamma is a privately owned wildlife reserve, and while it may not be as large as Kruger or Addo, it offers a surprisingly rich safari experience in a compact, accessible format. The reserve spans 216 hectares (530 acres) and features a beautiful blend of coastal forest, grassy plains, and savannah-like open areas.

I’m a celebrity get me out of here.

We booked our tickets online for £18 each and hopped in an Uber. After a short wait, we were able to explore the reserve’s raised wooden walkways, which offer scenic views and a chance to spot monkeys and birds—although the monkeys decided to hide during our visit.

The real magic happened once we boarded our open-sided safari vehicle for a 90-minute guided tour. Our guide was fantastic—knowledgeable, funny, and clearly passionate about the animals and the conservation work being done at the reserve.

During the tour, we saw:

• Giraffes gracefully walking through the grasslands
• Zebras hanging out in the sun
• Ostriches, impalas, buffalos, and wildebeest
• A variety of bird species perched and in flight
• Rhinos, which were incredibly impressive up close
• And a pair of cheetahs, visible behind a protective fence (for understandable reasons)

Kragga Kamma isn’t just about ticking animals off a list—it’s about getting close to nature in a peaceful, non-commercial way. You feel connected to the environment and the animals, all while being just a short drive from the city. It’s an ideal outing for cruise visitors or anyone short on time who still wants a real safari experience.

In just 24 hours, Port Elizabeth gave us two amazing and completely different experiences: a lively birthday celebration with fresh cocktails and ocean views, and a calm, scenic day in the South African bush, surrounded by incredible wildlife.

Barney’s Tavern delivered great food, even better drinks, and a party atmosphere right on the beach. Kragga Kamma Game Reserve gave us giraffes, rhinos, and a fresh appreciation for South Africa’s natural beauty—all without breaking the bank.

Would we go back? Definitely. Though next time, we might split a burger three ways… and maybe just toast with wine instead of taking on the Snail Trail again!

Travel Tips

1. Stay Street Smart

• Port Elizabeth is generally friendly, but like many cities, some areas are safer than others.
• Avoid walking alone or at night, especially near the port. Stick to well-lit, busy areas.
• Use Uber or organised tours for transportation, and avoid displaying valuables.

2. Use Uber or Registered Transport

• Uber is widely available, reliable, and considered safe.
• If you choose a taxi, make sure it’s registered and agree on the fare in advance.

3. Currency – South African Rand (ZAR)

• The local currency is the South African Rand (R or ZAR).
• Credit/debit cards are accepted in most places, but carry a small amount of cash for markets and tips.
• ATMs are easy to find at shopping centres and fuel stations.

4. Mobile Phones & Internet

• Avoid high roaming charges by using one of these options:
  • Buy a local SIM card (Vodacom, MTN, Telkom).
  • Use free Wi-Fi in restaurants, cafés, and malls.
  • Activate an international roaming plan with your provider.
• WhatsApp is the most commonly used communication app.

5. Emergency Numbers

• Police: 10111
• Ambulance/Fire: 10177
• Mobile emergency (any service): 112
• Keep your cruise ship or hotel details handy in case of an emergency.

6. Plug Type & Voltage

• South Africa uses plug type M (three round pins in a triangular formation).
• Voltage: 230V, Frequency: 50Hz.
• A universal travel adapter with type M support is recommended.

7. Book Excursions Independently for Value

• Attractions like Kragga Kamma Game Reserve and Addo Elephant Park are affordable and easily accessible without a cruise tour.
• Booking online in advance can help secure the best time and price.

8. Dining Out? Know Where to Go

• Popular beachfront spots include Barney’s Tavern, Something Good Roadhouse, and Bocadillos.
• Great food, views, and value. Reserve in advance during peak times.

9. Pack for All Seasons

• Port Elizabeth has a mild climate, but weather can change quickly.
• Pack layers, a light jacket, sun protection, and comfy walking shoes.

10. Wildlife Etiquette

• At reserves like Kragga Kamma, respect the animals: stay quiet, don’t feed or approach them, and follow all guide instructions.

11. Time Management for Cruise Passengers

• Always return to your ship at least an hour before final boarding time.
• Account for traffic, waiting times, and travel distance when planning your return.

12. Learn a Few Local Words

• English is widely spoken, but locals appreciate a few words of local language:
  • Molo – Hello (isiXhosa)
  • Dankie – Thank you (Afrikaans)
  • Lekker – Great/fun (Afrikaans slang)

13. Support Local

• Buy souvenirs from local markets and vendors to support the local community.
• Look for hand-crafted items like beadwork, wood carvings, textiles, and jewellery.

Things to do

1. Kragga Kamma Game Reserve

• A compact but wildlife-rich game park, just 30 minutes from the city.
• Spot rhinos, giraffes, zebras, buffalo, ostriches, cheetahs (in a protected area), and more.
• Self-drive or take a guided safari tour.
• Affordable, easy day trip for cruise passengers.

2. Addo Elephant National Park

• About an hour’s drive from Port Elizabeth.
• Home to over 600 elephants, lions, buffalo, hyenas, antelope, and more.
• Ideal for those looking for a fuller, more expansive safari experience.

3. The Boardwalk

• A stylish waterfront area with shops, restaurants, a casino, and a small lake.
• Good for a relaxing afternoon or evening.
• Family-friendly with arcades, mini-golf, and entertainment.

4. King’s Beach & Hobie Beach

• Gorgeous sandy beaches ideal for sunbathing, swimming, and beach walks.
• Hobie Beach is popular for water sports and has lifeguards on duty.
• Look out for local surfers and beach volleyball games.

5. Route 67

• A public art trail through the city featuring 67 pieces celebrating Nelson Mandela’s 67 years of public service.
• Combines art, history, and South African heritage in one walkable route.
• Includes murals, sculptures, mosaics, and installations.

6. Ocean Safari / Boat Cruises

• Take a marine safari to spot dolphins, seals, penguins, and seasonal whales.
• Tours often leave from the harbour or beachfront areas.
• A great way to experience the marine biodiversity of Algoa Bay.

7. Donkin Reserve

• Historic park in the city centre offering views of the city and harbour.
• Features a lighthouse, pyramid monument, and part of the Route 67 trail.
• A good place for photos and a quick local history lesson.

8. SANCCOB Penguin Rehabilitation Centre

• Located just outside the city in Cape Recife.
• See rescued and rehabilitated penguins and learn about conservation efforts.
• Ideal for animal lovers and families.

9. Visit Local Markets

• The Valley Market or Bay Market offer local crafts, food, and live music.
• Great places to pick up handmade souvenirs, clothing, and local eats.

10. Try Local Food & Wine

• Sample South African cuisine like bobotie, biltong, and peri-peri chicken.
• Many restaurants feature local wines from nearby regions like Stellenbosch and Robertson.
• Barney’s Tavern is a beachfront favourite with a great menu and cocktails.

11. South End Museum

• Tells the story of the multicultural South End neighbourhood before apartheid’s forced removals.
• Insightful and emotional look at local history.

12. Cape Recife Nature Reserve

• Stunning natural reserve with beaches, rocky shores, and an old lighthouse.
• Great for birdwatching, nature walks, and photography.
• Entry fee applies and closed shoes are recommended.

Weather

Antananarivo

We had booked our excursion through MadaAssist at a cost of £9 each therefore did not know what to expect.

Tuk Tuk Ride

Antananarivo — the capital of Madagascar, where tuk-tuks bounce like kangaroos, chickens and traffic share the same road rules (i.e., none), and adventure comes with a solid dose of guesswork. We had grand plans: an all-day tuk-tuk ride with a “choose-your-own-itinerary” vibe. Spoiler alert: the only thing we chose was the duration of our confusion.

Armed with Google Translate and optimism, we asked our driver (in English-to-French via our phones), “Can you show us places you think we’ll like?” His response was a confident nod, a smile, and then several hours of… driving. Through neighborhoods, markets, side streets, and what may have been someone’s driveway. It was like a real-time documentary called “Locals: Unfiltered”. Fascinating? Yes. Action-packed? Not exactly.

There were no stops. Not a single “Would you like to get out here?” Just hours of watching everyday Malagasy life go by — people cooking on open fires, kids playing in dust patches, and a strong contender for World’s Busiest Chicken crossing the road (spoiler: he made it). We weren’t bored. But we also weren’t entirely sure what the plan was.

Remana Beach

Eventually, taking destiny into our own hands (and back into Google Translate), we requested: “Remana Beach, please.” And just like that, the tuk-tuk turned hero.

Remana Beach was exactly what we’d hoped for — soft sand, crystal-clear water, and hardly another tourist in sight. A slice of paradise… with one small twist: the restaurant we chose had no toilet. None. Fortunately, we’d made a pit stop en route. Crisis narrowly avoided.

As for the restaurant, it was rustic with a capital R, but charming. We ordered a seafood platter and a steak. Then we waited. And waited. And waited. Turns out, our meal was being cooked on an actual open fire out the back, like something out of a camping episode of MasterChef: Survival Edition. But honestly? Totally worth it.

The wine? Surprisingly decent for a beach shack. The food? Fresh, beautifully cooked, and so attractively plated that we briefly considered taking up food photography. The bill? An eye-watering, jaw-dropping, are-you-sure-this-is-right £14 for the entire meal and drinks. For context, that’s what one sad airport sandwich costs in the UK.

We dipped in the sea between sips of wine and bites of grilled prawns, and all was well in the world. Eventually, full and salty, we climbed back into our trusty tuk-tuk and headed for the ship — ready for our next stop: Nosy Be.

Moral of the story? Sometimes the best days are the ones that go a little sideways. Especially when they end with seafood, sandy toes, and wine you didn’t have to remortgage your house for.

Nosy Be

Lokobe Nature Reserve

Madagascar’s answer to a tropical paradise, where the lemurs are friendlier than your neighbour’s cat and the canoes come with a complimentary upper-body workout.

Our journey began as we disembarked from our cruise ship, stepping into a bustling port teeming with enthusiastic locals eager to offer excursions. It felt like being the last cookie at a bake sale—everyone wanted a piece of us.

After navigating through a sea of persuasive tour operators, we finally located our designated guide. We waited briefly for four fellow adventurers to join us, during which time we practiced our polite decline skills with other eager vendors.

Our chariot—a minibus with character—whisked us away through the scenic landscapes of Nosy Be. Our guide, a fountain of knowledge, shared insights about the island’s flora, fauna, and the occasional anecdote that may or may not have been embellished for dramatic effect.

Upon arrival at the edge of the Lokobe Nature Reserve, we were introduced to our next mode of transport: traditional dugout canoes. These charming vessels required us to paddle and occasionally bail out water, adding an unexpected arm workout to our itinerary.

Inside the reserve, we were greeted by guides with eyes sharper than a hawk’s. They pointed out lemurs leaping from trees, chameleons blending into leaves, and snakes that, thankfully, were more interested in sunbathing than us. Holding a snake was a highlight—nothing says “vacation” like a reptile draped over your shoulders.

The terrain was rugged, and my choice of white trainers quickly proved to be a rookie mistake. They now carry the earthy hues of Madagascar—a fashionable souvenir, if you ask me.

One of the most enchanting moments was interacting with the black lemurs, the reserve’s iconic residents. These curious creatures, known for their expressive eyes and playful antics, approached us with a mix of caution and curiosity. With guidance from our knowledgeable guides, we offered them pieces of banana, which they accepted delicately from our hands. Feeling their tiny fingers grasp the fruit was both surreal and heartwarming—a true highlight of the trip.

Lokobe Nature Reserve is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an impressive array of flora and fauna. As we ventured deeper into the forest, our guides pointed out:

• Nosy Be Panther Chameleons: These vibrant reptiles showcased their color-changing abilities, blending seamlessly with the foliage.
• Leaf-Tailed Geckos: Masters of camouflage, these geckos were nearly indistinguishable from the tree bark they clung to.
• Boas and Tree Snakes: Non-venomous and surprisingly docile, these snakes added an element of excitement to our trek.
• Frogs and Geckos: Their vivid colors and unique calls added to the symphony of the forest.
• Endemic Birds: From the Madagascar pygmy kingfisher to various vangas, bird enthusiasts would find plenty to admire.

After our trek, we returned to our canoes, which were now ingeniously tied together and towed by a motorised boat. Picture a conga line of canoes gliding through the water—a sight as amusing as it was unique.

Our adventure concluded with a meal at a quaint local restaurant. The spread included potatoes, rice, bread, seafood, chicken, and fruit. It was simple, hearty, and the perfect end to our escapade.

On our way back to the ship, we stopped at a local market, immersing ourselves in the vibrant culture and picking up a few souvenirs to commemorate our unforgettable day.

In summary, our £60 Viator tour to Lokobe Reserve was a delightful blend of adventure, nature, and cultural immersion. Just remember to wear appropriate footwear and be prepared for a day full of surprises and smiles.

The flora was equally captivating, with towering canarium trees, strangler figs, and a variety of orchids and ferns thriving in the humid jungle air. Many of these plants have medicinal properties and are used by local communities, adding a layer of cultural significance to the natural beauty.

Our day at Lokobe Nature Reserve was a harmonious blend of adventure, education, and cultural immersion. From paddling through mangroves to sharing a meal with locals, every moment was a testament to the rich tapestry of life in Madagascar. If you ever find yourself in Nosy Be, don’t miss the opportunity to experience this natural wonder—just remember to leave the white trainers at home.

Travel Tips

Traveling to Madagascar offers an unparalleled experience with its unique biodiversity and vibrant culture. However, to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip, consider the following tips:

Safety and Security

• Stay Vigilant: Petty crimes like pickpocketing are common, especially in urban areas such as Antananarivo. Be cautious in crowded places like markets and bus terminals.
• Avoid Night Travel: Traveling after dark increases the risk of encountering armed bandits, particularly on main highways.
• Use Reputable Services: Only book tours and transportation through reputable agencies or hotel recommendations to avoid scams.
• Secure Your Belongings: Keep valuables out of sight, and avoid displaying signs of wealth. Use a money belt or neck wallet for important documents and cash.

Transportation Tips

• Road Conditions: Many roads are in poor condition, and driving habits can be unpredictable. If you choose to drive, ensure you have an international driving permit and consider hiring a local driver.
• Public Transport Caution: Avoid using “taxi-brousse” (bush taxis) as they are often overcrowded and involved in accidents.
• Ferry Safety: If traveling by ferry, ensure the vessel is not overcrowded and has appropriate safety equipment. Avoid sea travel during bad weather conditions.

Health Precautions

• Vaccinations: Consult with a healthcare provider at least 6 weeks before travel to receive recommended vaccinations, including those for malaria and dengue.
• Water Safety: Tap water is unsafe to drink. Use bottled or purified water, and avoid ice in drinks.
• Medical Facilities: Healthcare services are limited outside major cities. Ensure your travel insurance covers medical evacuation.
• Emergency Numbers: Save key contacts: Police – 117, Fire Department – 118.

Wildlife and Nature

• Respect Wildlife: While lemurs and other animals may appear friendly, avoid feeding or touching them to prevent potential diseases like rabies.
• Insect Precautions: Wear protective clothing and use insect repellent to guard against bites from mosquitoes and other insects.
• Swimming Safety: Avoid swimming in freshwater bodies to prevent infections like schistosomiasis. Stick to designated swimming areas and heed local advice.

Money and Scams

• Currency: Carry enough cash, especially in rural areas where ATMs may be scarce. Use credit cards only at reputable establishments.
• Avoid Scams: Be cautious of individuals posing as guides or officials. Always verify credentials and avoid unsolicited offers.

Cultural Etiquette

• Local Taboos (Fady): Certain regions have specific taboos. Consult with local guides to ensure respectful behavior.
• Identification: Always carry your passport, as police may conduct random ID checks.

By staying informed and cautious, you can enjoy the rich experiences Madagascar has to offer while ensuring your safety and well-being

Things to do

1. Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
Explore dramatic limestone formations and encounter various endemic species in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2. Avenue of the Baobabs
Visit this iconic stretch near Morondava, lined with ancient baobab trees, especially picturesque at sunrise and sunset.

3. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
Discover lush rainforests teeming with biodiversity, including the largest lemur species, the indri.

4. Nosy Be
Enjoy beach activities, snorkeling, and diving in this island off Madagascar’s northwest coast, known for its clear waters and coral reefs.

5. Île Sainte-Marie (Nosy Boraha)
Relax on pristine beaches, explore historical sites, and partake in seasonal whale watching on this tranquil east coast island.

6. Isalo National Park
Trek through sandstone formations, canyons, and natural pools, observing lemurs and unique landscapes.

7. Antananarivo
Experience the capital’s rich history and culture by exploring royal palaces, bustling markets, and museums.

8. Ranomafana National Park
Visit this rainforest reserve, home to several lemur species, including the rare golden bamboo lemur.

9. Ankarana National Park
Explore limestone formations, caves, and underground rivers, and observe various lemur species and reptiles.

10. Ifaty
Relax on sandy beaches and explore coral reefs in this southwest coastal area, ideal for snorkeling and diving.

11. Ramena Beach
Located approximately 18 kilometers from Diego Suarez, Ramena Beach is a serene coastal destination known for its soft white sands and calm, shallow waters.

12. Lokobe Nature Reserve
Situated on Nosy Be island, Lokobe Nature Reserve is the last remaining primary forest in the region. Accessible only by traditional canoe.

Weather

Cape Town

Staying at The President Hotel

Located in Bantry Bay, one of Cape Town’s most exclusive and wind-sheltered neighbourhoods, the President Hotel enjoys a prime seafront location with sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean and Lion’s Head mountain.

We booked through Destination 2 https://www.destination2.co.uk/  at a cost of £170 a night for a sea view room.

This stylish 4-star hotel combines modern comfort with relaxed coastal elegance. The rooms are spacious, well-equipped, and many come with private balconies offering panoramic sea or mountain views—the perfect spot to enjoy a morning coffee or evening sunset.

The pool area is a standout feature. Surrounded by loungers and palm trees, the sparkling infinity pool looks out over the ocean and makes for an ideal afternoon retreat. Whether you’re in for a refreshing swim or simply relaxing with a cocktail poolside, it’s a serene oasis in the heart of the city.

And then there’s breakfast—an experience in itself. Served in The Islands Restaurant, the morning spread is nothing short of spectacular, with an abundance of choice: fresh pastries, hot breakfast classics, a healthy selection of fruits and yoghurts, and even made-to-order options. It’s the kind of breakfast that justifies a second (or third) helping.

A fun bonus? British Airways cabin crew are often spotted staying at the hotel, which feels like a reassuring stamp of approval from seasoned global travellers who know a good hotel when they see one.

Whether you’re winding down after a day of sightseeing or fuelling up for the next adventure, the President Hotel offers a perfect blend of style, comfort, and top-notch hospitality in one of Cape Town’s best-loved locations.

Short Cruise around Cape Town

Before we got swept up in mountain cable cars, curious penguins, and impromptu Jeep transfers near lions (yes, really), we kicked things off with something a little gentler: a 90-minute cruise from the V&A Waterfront.

We booked this through Viator https://www.viator.com at a cost of £17 each which was exceptionally good value.

The cruise itself was smooth sailing, with just enough gentle bobbing to remind you you’re at sea, but not enough to spill your drink (which, if you’re wondering, is the perfect cruise-to-wine-glass ratio). A salty breeze, glorious sunshine, and that unbeatable sense of “this is the life” made for a brilliant start to the trip.

Then came the dolphins.

Out of nowhere, a small pod of them appeared, playfully dancing in the boat’s wake like they’d rehearsed it. Of course, the moment we reached for our cameras, they vanished—leaving behind nothing but ripples and a boat full of people pretending they definitely did get a photo, honest. (They were probably snickering behind the waves.)

Still, even without the photographic evidence, it was a magical moment—and one of those little surprises that make travel so memorable.

By the time we cruised back into the harbour, with Table Mountain still standing proudly in the morning light, we all agreed: this wasn’t just a scenic boat ride—it was the perfect way to ease into our Cape Town adventure.

V&A Waterfront: Dining, Seals & a Whole Lot of Charm

Whether it’s your first day in Cape Town or your last, a visit to the V&A Waterfront is simply a must. Set against the backdrop of Table Mountain and overlooking the harbour, this vibrant, world-class destination is more than just a shopping district—it’s a lively, sensory-rich experience where history, culture, and entertainment come together seamlessly.

The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is one of the most visited destinations on the African continent, and it’s easy to see why. The area is home to over 80 restaurants, cafés, and bars, offering everything from fresh-off-the-boat seafood to gourmet fine dining and global cuisine. Whether you’re craving sushi, steak, a Cape Malay curry, or just a good cup of coffee and a view, you’ll find it here—with many establishments boasting outdoor seating and spectacular waterside views.

As you stroll along the harbour’s edge, don’t be surprised to spot a local celebrity or two—and by that, we mean Cape fur seals. These playful marine mammals often haul themselves out of the water to bask in the sun along the quayside or on specially designed seal platforms. They’re a delightful and unexpected part of the Waterfront experience, always ready to pose for a few photos (though at a respectful distance, of course).

The V&A Waterfront isn’t just about eating (though let’s be honest—you will eat again). You can splurge on crafts you didn’t know you needed at the Watershed, spin slowly over the city on the Cape Wheel while questioning your life choices, and stare at fish with a mix of awe and mild hunger at the Two Oceans Aquarium. Hop on a boat tour to Robben Island or just wave at seals pretending to be chill influencers. There’s street music that’ll make you dance , local art to pretend you understand, and shopping so good it’ll make your bank app sweat. And if all else fails—grab a coffee and watch tourists battle pigeons for their lunch.

It’s not just a stop—it’s a destination in its own right, and one that will leave you wanting to return before you’ve even left.

Half Day City Tour with Tabletop Mountain

Our second day began with a half-day city tour, offering a fantastic introduction to Cape Town’s rich history, iconic landmarks, and stunning scenery. It’s the perfect way to get a feel for the city’s character—diverse, dynamic, and undeniably beautiful.

We booked this through Viator https://www.viator.comat a cost of £52 each 

Castle of Good Hope

One of the standout stops was the Castle of Good Hope, the oldest surviving colonial building in South Africa. This 17th-century pentagonal fortress is steeped in history, with exhibits on early Cape life, military history, and colonial architecture. It’s a must-visit for anyone with a curiosity about the city’s past.

Houses of Parliament

But the true centrepiece of the day was undoubtedly Table Mountain, one of the New7Wonders of Nature and Cape Town’s most famous natural landmark.

To reach the summit, we boarded the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway—a marvel in itself. The large cable car has a revolving floor, which means everyone gets 360-degree views of the city, mountain cliffs, and coastline during the ascent. No need to elbow your way to a window; just relax and let the floor do the turning.

At the top, the views are absolutely breathtaking, with multiple viewing platforms offering different perspectives of the city below, the Atlantic Ocean, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, and even Robben Island in the distance. The summit is surprisingly expansive, with well-maintained paths, quiet corners, and plenty of photo opportunities. There’s also a café and gift shop, should you fancy a snack with a view or a souvenir to take home.

Even if you’re not typically one for mountaintop adventures, the ease of access and the sheer beauty of the surroundings make this experience unforgettable.

Beyond Table Mountain and the Castle of Good Hope, Cape Town offers an array of sights that can be explored during or outside the formal city tour:

• Bo-Kaap

Entrance to Company Gardens

This tour struck the perfect balance between history, natural beauty, and cultural charm—leaving us with a newfound appreciation for just how much Cape Town has to offer in every direction.

Game Drives, Jeep Drama & Dozing Lions at Aquila

Just when we thought Cape Town had given us everything—mountains, penguins, ocean views, and breakfast buffets to write home about—we added one more unforgettable experience to the list: a safari day trip to Aquila Private Game Reserve.

We booked through Viator https://www.viator.com at a cost of £120 each.

Located about two hours from Cape Town, Aquila offers a chance to see the Big Five without venturing too far into the wild. We even saw a 4 day old Giraffe and a 3 month old Rhino (so cute). It’s a perfect add-on if you’re itching for a taste of safari life, and trust us—this taste came with a twist.

The reserve is stunning, with wide open plains, dramatic mountain backdrops, and all the iconic animals you’d hope for. Things were going smoothly as we rumbled through the bush in our open-air 4×4 safari vehicle, cameras at the ready, eyes peeled for anything that moved (or didn’t—rocks can be deceiving).

Then, in true safari style, we had a bit of a technical hiccup: our Jeep broke down.

Now, ordinarily, this might raise a few eyebrows—but we were assured this was all part of the adventure. Our guides sprang into action with impressive calm and efficiency. A rescue Jeep was sent in no time, and we were swiftly transferred to safety… just a short distance from lions.

Fortunately, these majestic cats were clearly in post-meal bliss mode, lounging under the trees like they’d just finished Christmas lunch. Full bellies, sleepy eyes, not a care in the world. If anything, we were more likely to be ignored than noticed. Still, there’s nothing quite like hopping between safari vehicles with lions nearby to make you feel very, very alive.

Once safely aboard our new ride, the tour continued through the reserve, and we spotted zebras, rhinos, giraffes, and more. Every turn delivered another photo opportunity—or at least another excuse to whisper “wow” for the hundredth time.

While we only visited for the day, we couldn’t help but notice how beautiful the accommodation at Aquila looked. Think stylish thatched lodges, warm natural décor, and—wait for it—a swim-up pool bar. Yes, really. We weren’t entirely sure if we were on safari or checking into a luxury island resort, but either way, it was calling our names.

Whether you go for a day or stay overnight, Aquila offers a brilliant mix of wild beauty and creature comforts—with just a dash of Jeep-related drama to keep things interesting.

Penguins, Peaks & Peninsula Magic

The final full day began with one of the true highlights of the entire trip: a visit to Boulders Bay. For anyone who’s seen the delightful Netflix documentary Penguin Town, you’ll know this spot isn’t just beautiful—it’s heartwarming, fascinating, and unforgettable.

We booked an Uber and arrange with the driver for a full day at a cost of £45.

This sheltered beach in Simon’s Town is home to a thriving colony of African penguins, a protected species that has made this area their permanent—and very popular—residence. The moment you arrive, you’ll understand why this place was on our bucket list. Seeing the stars of Penguin Town in real life, waddling between sun-warmed boulders or darting through the shallows, is pure joy.

There are wooden walkways for observing the penguins up close without disturbing their natural behaviour, and several secluded swimming beaches, where visitors can take a dip in the clear, calm waters. Yes—you can actually swim at Boulders Bay! And on some lucky days, you may find yourself sharing the water with a curious penguin or two. (They’re used to humans, but it’s best to keep a respectful distance—no selfies with flippers, please.)

Boulders Bay is also an important conservation site, managed by SANParks, with strict protections in place to keep the penguins safe. There are informative signs throughout the area, and one particularly charming (and important) detail: signs in the car park advising visitors to check under their cars. Why? Because the penguins, being inquisitive little creatures, sometimes take shelter in the shade under parked vehicles. It’s a small but telling example of how closely these birds live alongside humans—and how seriously their protection is taken.

This visit wasn’t just another photo opportunity—it was a heartfelt experience, full of character, charm, and conservation. If you’re already a fan of Penguin Town, it feels like stepping into the documentary itself.

After saying our goodbyes to the penguins at Boulders Bay, we hit the road for one of the most scenic drives : the legendary Chapman’s Peak Drive.

This route is what happens when a civil engineer falls in love with a mountain and decides to carve a road into its side just to show it off. With 114 curves hugging the rugged cliffs between Noordhoek and Hout Bay, it’s a drive where every turn offers a new gasp-worthy view of the Atlantic Ocean crashing against the rocks below.

There are plenty of viewpoints and lay-bys where you can hop out for a photo—or twenty. Just be warned: no matter how many pictures you take, none will quite capture how majestic it feels to be there in person. The wind in your hair, the smell of the sea, and that “how-is-this-even-real” kind of silence? That’s something a camera just can’t steal.

From there, the road led us to Camps Bay, Cape Town’s answer to the French Riviera—only with better views and friendlier penguins (well, nearby). This upscale beachfront suburb is famous for its palm-lined promenade, white sandy beach, and the always-impressive Twelve Apostles mountain range standing tall in the background like nature’s bodyguards.

Camps Bay has a lively atmosphere, perfect for a late lunch, early cocktail, or serious people-watching. The beachfront is dotted with stylish cafés, bars, and seafood restaurants, where you can sip something cold, nibble something delicious, and bask in the golden afternoon sun like a very content seal.

Whether you’re dipping your toes in the chilly Atlantic or lounging with a sundowner in hand, Camps Bay offers the perfect end to a day that’s already delivered penguins, mountain passes, and unforgettable views.

Summary of Our Cape Town Adventures

Cape Town feels like the perfect host—welcoming you with stunning ocean and mountain views, delicious food, and a variety of unforgettable experiences. The trip started at The President Hotel, where waking up to panoramic sea and mountain scenes quickly became the highlight of the morning coffee routine.

A gentle 90-minute cruise from the V&A Waterfront set the tone, with a surprise appearance from playful dolphins reminding us that nature loves to show off here. The Waterfront itself is a lively mix of great dining, charming local wildlife (seals included), and plenty of shopping and entertainment options to keep things interesting.

A half-day city tour combined history and spectacular sights, with the rotating cable car ride up Table Mountain offering breathtaking views that are hard to beat. The safari at Aquila brought some unexpected excitement when our jeep broke down near some very relaxed lions—proof that even adventure has its moments of “hold on a second.”

Boulders Bay delighted with its colony of African penguins, waddling around as if they own the place (which, in a way, they do). Finishing with the scenic Chapman’s Peak Drive and the stylish vibe of Camps Bay was the perfect way to soak in Cape Town’s natural beauty and vibrant atmosphere.

All in all, Cape Town delivers a well-rounded mix of awe-inspiring sights, wildlife encounters, and laid-back coastal charm—making it a destination that’s hard to forget.

Travel Tips for Cape Town

Currency & Payments

• Currency: South African Rand (ZAR or R)

• Credit/debit cards are widely accepted in urban areas

• Keep small amounts of cash for tips, markets, and rural areas

• Use ATMs located in secure places such as banks or malls

• Tipping: 10–15% is customary in restaurants and for services

Communication

• Country Dial Code: +27

• Emergency Numbers:

  • General Emergency (from mobile): 112

  • Police: 10111

  • Ambulance/Fire: 10177

• SIM cards available at the airport and retailers (MTN, Vodacom, Telkom, Cell C)

• Passport required to register SIMs (RICA compliance)

• Wi-Fi is common in hotels, cafés, and restaurants

• Consider a local data plan for convenience

Safety & Security

• Stay in tourist-friendly areas like the V&A Waterfront, Camps Bay, and Constantia

• Avoid walking alone after dark in quiet or poorly lit areas

• Use Uber or Bolt instead of hailing taxis on the street

• Avoid displaying valuables such as phones, jewelry, and cameras

• Use hotel safes for passports and spare cash

• Hike in groups, during daylight, and on marked trails (e.g., Table Mountain, Lion’s Head)

• Refer to https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/south-africa for updates

Health & Vaccinations

• No required vaccinations for travelers from the UK

• Recommended vaccinations: Hepatitis A, Tetanus, Typhoid

• Yellow Fever certificate required if arriving from risk countries

• High-quality private healthcare available (travel insurance strongly recommended)

• Tap water is generally safe, but bottled water is commonly used by visitors

Climate & Clothing

• Best time to visit:

  • December to February for summer and beaches

  • March to May for hiking and mild weather

• Dress in layers to handle changing weather

• Bring sun protection: sunscreen, sunglasses, hat

• Wear comfortable walking or hiking shoes

Cultural Tips

• English is widely spoken

• Greetings and polite behaviour are appreciated

• Plug types: M (South African), C (European)

• Voltage: 230V, 50Hz – bring a universal adapter

• Top Things to Do in Cape Town

1. Table Mountain
Take the Aerial Cableway to the summit for panoramic views, or hike if you’re feeling adventurous.

2. V&A Waterfront Cruise
Sail into the bay for a fresh perspective on the city and views of Table Mountain. Dolphin sightings are a bonus.

3. Bo-Kaap

Is known for its colourful houses and cobbled streets.

4. Aquila Private Game Reserve
A full or half-day safari within reach of Cape Town. Spot the Big Five and enjoy luxury facilities.

5. V&A Waterfront
Cape Town’s top shopping and dining district. Includes attractions like the Two Oceans Aquarium and Zeitz MOCAA.

6. Chapman’s Peak Drive
One of the most scenic coastal drives in the world, offering dramatic views and great photo stops.

7. Camps Bay
Trendy beachfront suburb known for its restaurants, white sand, and the backdrop of the Twelve Apostles.

8. City Highlights Tour
Includes Bo-Kaap, the Castle of Good Hope, Company’s Garden, Long Street, and Greenmarket Square.

Weather

Marrakech is the fourth largest city in Morocco. It is also home to the Atlas Mountains. Marrakech consists of an old and new town.

Marrakech is one of the most chaotic, colourful and entertaining places we’ve ever visited. Imagine somebody took an all inclusive hotel, a giant maze, a motorbike rally and a spice market… then threw them all together in 35-degree heat.

And somehow, it works beautifully.

From the moment we landed, Marrakech felt exciting. Slightly overwhelming… but exciting.

Travel to Marrakech

We flew from Manchester Airport with Ryanair and managed to get flights for around £120 return including priority boarding and a 10kg case, which in today’s world feels like we’d committed some kind of airline fraud. We booked through https://www.skyscanner.net.

Because we live in Leeds, we decided to fly back into Leeds Bradford Airport instead of Manchester. This seemed like a smart idea at the time. We appreciated it greatly when we were exhausted, slightly dehydrated and mentally unable to face the M62.

Marrakech airport

Getting through Marrakech Airport was surprisingly easy. Passport control moved quicker than expected and within no time we were outside expecting to see our transfer driver proudly holding a sign with our name on it like in the movies.

He was not there.

Neither was anybody else remotely interested in helping us.

The airport WiFi was about as reliable as British summer weather, so after standing around for 40 minutes slowly melting in the heat and questioning our life choices, we admitted defeat and got a taxi to the hotel for around £17.

A great start.

Accommodation

We stayed at the Valeria Dar Atlas which we booked through Destination2 for around £82 per night all inclusive for two people.

Having read some of the TripAdvisor reviews beforehand, we were fully prepared to arrive somewhere resembling a prison canteen with sunbeds.

But honestly? We were pleasantly surprised.

The hotel grounds were lovely with palm trees, pools and plenty of places to sit with a drink pretending we lived a glamorous lifestyle.

The room was clean, spacious and absolutely fine for what we paid. Was it ultra luxury? No. Did we care while drinking cocktails in the sunshine? Also no.

Rooms

The rooms were very basic but adequate for our needs. We had 3 single beds, a wardrobe (no drawers, a fridge (didn’t work) and a small table. The bathroom had a hair dyer (very slow), mirror and shower. There was a separate toilet which was handy. We also had a balcony with two plastic chairs and a plastic table both of which had seen better days. The rooms were cleaned daily but fresh towels and clean bedding were not always provided.

Food

Breakfast

Each morning you could have fresh eggs and omelettes which were cooked outside. At the food stations inside there was scrambled eggs, sausage, potatoes, vegetables, cereal, and pancakes. There was also a decent selection of meats, cheeses, salads, pastries and breads.

Lunch

Each day there was cooking outside which usually consisted of pizza, burgers, chips and paninis. At the food stations there was always a fish dish, a chicken dish and a meat dish. The lamb tagine was delicious. Alongside the main dishes there were plenty of very fresh salads, vegetables, breads and deserts. There was a drinks machine for soft drinks and also a coffee machine. There was a small bar in the dining room where wine was served. The wine surprisingly was quite good, maybe thanks to the French influence.

Dinner

The food selection for Dinner was similar to that provided at lunch, minus the outside cooking. In the evening they did try and make it a bit smarter than at lunch with table covers on the tables and waiter service for drinks. We asked for a ice bucket for our wine which was willingly provided – from then on each evening our wine was brought to our table with an ice bucket thanks to a fantastic waiter called Ayoub.

Drinks

Drinks were limited to beers, wines, sangria and a small selection of cocktails. Again as we had not paid a lot we did not expect a great deal. During the day the drinks were served in paper cups which they often ran out of. There is a pool bar which serves soft drinks, beers and wine. If you want any other alcoholic drink you have to go to the inside bar. There is always a long queue no matter which bar you go to or what time of day. There are some cocktails that you can pay 80 dhr for which is around £6.30. There is also fresh orange juice and slushies available that cost 20 dhr, around £1.60. We often bought the slushies and added vodka to them which made for a refreshing drink.

Pool scene

The pool area became our recovery zone after every trip into Marrakech itself.

There’s something magical about lying on a sunbed with a cocktail after spending several hours in the Medina fighting for survival against mopeds and market traders.

The pools are a decent size. The hotel goes to great lengths to keep the outside areas clean and there were always staff walking aound and clearing up empty cups and glasses.

Entertainment

The entertainment team were really keen and full of energy throughout the day. There were activities all day long including yoga, darts, aqua aerobics water polo and dancing. In the evening there was a children’s disco followed by dancing and music for adults. We could not fault the entertainment team especially for a all inclusive of this standard (4 star).

Every Saturday they have a foam party which is great fun. Everyone was dancing and jumping around including the entertainment team who try to get people involved but were never pushy.

Hotel grounds

The hotel is set in lovely grounds which included a small lake with ducks and ducklings. The grounds are well maintained and attractive.

Summary of hotel

We had read some rather negative reviews prior to arriving at the hotel therefore we did not expect it to be as good as it was. All of the staff work tirelessly and do their best to ensure you had a good time. It is not 5 star standard but we did not pay 5 star prices. We spoke with the manager (Saber Fajr) about the issue with the fridge and also enquired if we could have a late check out which he immediately sorted. Saber was speaking to other guests too and was genuinely interested in ensuring that guests were enjoying their stay.

Obviously there are some issues that the hotel could improve on that in our opinion would not cost a lot to rectify. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. It was fantastic value for money. We would definitely go back to this hotel if it was still available at a good price.

Tuk Tuk tour

We booked the Tuk Tuk tour through viator http://www.viator.com at a cost of £52 for 2 people.

We met our guide at the front of the Koutoubia Mosque. From our hotel this was a 30 minute taxi ride at a cost of 150 Dhr which is around £12.

Jardin Majorella Gardens

This is the first stop the tour takes you to. You have to book the tickets in advance as you can not pay on the day. There is an official site http://tickets.jardinmajorelle.com to buy the tickets on at 165 Dhr which is around £13.

Bahia Palace

There is an entrance fee of 100 Dhr per person which is around £8. As we had arrived at the Palace early in the morning it was pretty quiet but did start to fill up fairly quickly. There are lots of small rooms leading off from the main courtyard which we could imagine would be a be difficult to go in and out of during busy times.

Our driver gave us enough time to see the palace and read about its history. The Palace is very ornate. There was so much to take in and look at. You could easily spend a good few hours looking at this spectacular building.

Saadian Tombs

Built in the 16th century, the tombs, walls and ceilings are decorated with colourful tiles, mosaics and carvings. The architecture of the buildings is amazing. Again there was an entrance fee of 100 Dhr which is around £4. This is only a small place so does not take much to look around.

Tannery

When we arrived at the Tannery we were greeted by an elderly gentleman who gave us some fresh mint. He advised us that this was to mask the smell of the tannery which it did thank goodness! He explained to us what happens at the tannery and how the leather is treated and then made in to goods such as belts, bags, shoes and clothing.

He advised that all the workers live on site but the owners live in a big house elsewhere. At the end of the tour he took us to the leather shop. There was no hard sell we were able to just browse at our own time.

Souks

Marrakech is home to three main Souks ( Souk Semmarine, Souk El-k and Souk Nejjarine) The Souks are a hive of activity with lots of vibrant colours and the pleasant smells of food. It was great fun on the Tuk Tuk taking in the sights as he weaved in and out of the crowds. We managed to see so much and cover a lot of ground in the Souk. Not only were there people walking around the Souks but we also saw many other forms of transport including donkeys, bicycles, motor bikes, tuk tuks and vans all trying to make their way through the narrow streets.

As we were on the Tuk Tuk we did not get hassled as much as we would have done on foot. It appears that you can buy almost anything in the Souks. The main attraction in the Souks for the English tourists is the fake branded shops.

Main Square

This area attracts a lot of both tourists and locals. In the main square there are a lot of traditional street food places to eat at, serving an impressive range of dishes and many local families visit on an evening due to the quality of the food and the cost.

In the main square you will also see the traditional snake charmers who ask for money to have your photo taken with them. We opted out of this as don’t agree with the way the snakes are treated. There were also men with monkeys on chains who asked for money to have a photo taken with them but again this is very cruel and we do not agree with this therefore we did not have our photo taken. We appreciate that they have a living to make but we felt this was morally wrong.

Street Food Tour

We booked the street food tour through Viator https://www.viator.com/tours/england at a cost of £25 each. We were met by our guide Abdul at Argana Café which is near the main square. Abdul was very engaging as soon as he met us. As we walked through the narrow streets he was explaining about the area and the customs of the people. The bread shop he was going to take us to was actually closed therefore he took us to our first food tasting which was snails.

Babouch (Snails)

The snails were served in a small bowl with a sauce to dip them in. Abdul called the dip snail juice. It had been a long time since we had tasted snails therefore we did not know what to expect. Although the snails did taste ok it seemed a lot of effort for such little mouthfuls. Abdul advised that this was very popular with families during the evening.

Magic Bread

This was amazing and very filling. The bread is similar to a pitta bread. To begin with they open it up and spread olive oil on it. It is then filled with potato, cheese, onions and egg. This is then served with a chilli sauce to add yourself to your taste and tea. As it was getting towards evening time it was very popular with locals. Each person serving was working non-stop due to the amount of customers. There weren’t many tourists eating here but that’s the point of the street food tour – to try local food, and we like to eat where the locals eat.

Harira

This is a soup-like dish again popular with the locals. The nearest thing we could compare it to was that it was similar to minestrone soup. This was served with sweet pastries and dates. Due to the popularity of the street food the quantities cooked are vast. The Harira was cooked in very large pots.

Masamen

Masamen is very similar to pancakes. It can be served as a sweet dish with honey or savoury which is stuffed with cheese. We ate this at a café style venue served with tea. Abdul informed us about the art of pouring the tea. He advised that tea needs to be poured from a height to create a froth. With out the froth the tea isn’t prepared properly.

Olives

We went to the madina to try some local olives. There were many stores selling the olives in one street. Abdul advised that there is no competition between the stalls as they all sell at the same price and know each other well. He advised that all of the stall owners are friends and socialise together. The variation of olives available was something we had never seen before nor did we know there were so many varieties.

Nuts

Again we ate them in the madina. Lots of stalls were selling the nuts. A vast variety of nuts from some that were quite salty and others that were in a sweet coating with sesame seeds. Abdul our guide asked the stall owner to put a mixed variety in a bag for us to try – they were delicious.

Panashi

Panashi is a smoothie type of drink made with a mixture of fruits. It is so full of flavour and if we had not eaten so much already we would definitely have had another of these. As it was getting later in to the evening the food places were becoming very full. There were queues at most of the street food vendors.

Khodnjal

This a tea which is made from thirteen different herbs. The tea is said to help the locals stay healthy and keep coughs and colds away. This is a very strong tea with a lovely herbal smell.

Mixed Sandwich

This was our final stop on the food tour. It was so busy with queues to order the food and wait for it to be cooked. The mixed sandwich was similar to a kebab in the UK. It consisted of meat or chicken, onions, peppers and cheese in a bread similar to a pitta bread. Unfortunately by this time we had eaten so much we could not eat it therefore we got it to take away.

Summary of tour

Abdul was an excellent guide who told us all about the food, the ingredients, the origins and the customs. If we hadn’t gone on the tour we would not have known where to eat to experience the variation in the Moroccan food. They always say eat where the locals eat to have the best traditional food and this was definitely the case with this food tour. We thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience.

Breakfast and camel ride in Agafay Desert

We had booked the excursion through viator https://www.viator.com/tours/england at a cost of £18 each. On the day we booked to do the activity we got up at 6am as we were being picked up at 7am. We waited until 8am but nobody turned up. We tried calling a number which we were given for the tour operated but this did not exist therefore we contacted Viator who also couldn’t get in touch with them. We sent several emails but still no response. Later that day we got a whatsapp message apologising.

We arranged to do the trip the following day so another early start! Thankfully the transfer arrived on time. The journey to the camp took around 40 minutes. Part of the way there we had to change vehicle to an off road vehicle due to the terrain.

Breakfast

When we arrived at our destination we were shown to where we would eat our breakfast. This consisted of pancakes, soft cheese, bread, jams, cake, water, tea or orange juice. Other people had eggs but they had run out by the time we got there. The surroundings and breakfast were nothing like the photo on Viator (see above image taken from Viator website). The pancakes/bread was so hard it was difficult to chew them.

Pool

The owner of the camp advised that we could use the swimming pool due to the error with the booking and the no-show from the driver the previous day. The swimming pool is in a lovely setting therefore we were looking forward to having a swim in it. The pool is well maintained with nice sun loungers.

Camel Ride

After breakfast we were taken for our camel ride. The saddles for the camels were made of an hessian type of material which actually rubbed your legs. One of the camels was very unruly and tried to throw me (Debbie) off on more than one occasion. It also tried biting the guide several times. We were taken by camel to the top of a large hill with views over looking over the desert and camp. We were able to feed the camels too, however we were a bit apprehensive regarding the camel which had tried several times to bite the guide.

After the camel ride we were taken back to the camp. The owner stated if we wanted to use the pool we would have to stay until 4pm when a driver would be returning to Marrakech. As we were going home that day we were not able to stay until that time. Originally the owner advised we could use the pool for an hour or two then someone would take us back to the hotel – he then changed his mind for what ever reason.

Summary of Breakfast and camel ride in Agafay Desert

Although we did not expect a lot due to the cost we did expect the driver to turn up. This could have been a fantastic experience if they had put a bit more effort into to the breakfast offering and included time in the pool. If they charged a bit more then this could be added to the experience. We were obviously disappointed when we were told we could use the pool for a short while but then told we needed to stay all day if we wanted to do this. Our advice would be to read reviews before booking and pay more for a better experience. Unfortunately we booked before realising there were no reviews.

Things to do

• Visit the Atlas mountains and the 5 valleys.
• Do a camel ride.
• Do a street food tour.
• Visit the medina and main square.
• Grab a bargain in the Souks.
• Do a balloon ride.
• Ride the quads and dune buggies.
• Take a Tuk Tuk ride around the main sites.
• Visit Ouzould waterfalls

Top Tips

• Book excursions prior to visiting Marrakech and read reviews.
• Local currency can not be taken in or out of the country therefore ensure you know where to get your currency.
• When booking an hotel try comparison sites for the best deal. We used Trivago https://www.trivago.co.uk/hotels/comparison
• Research the hotel prior to booking.
• Check out the dress code for certain tourist attractions.
• Check out the UK Government website for security and safety advice when visiting Marrakech http://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/morocco
• Morocco can get very hot in the summer months – check out the temperatures below for best time to visit Marrakech.
• Check out the other destinations we have visited in Africa

Weather

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

Diani Beach looks out over the Indian Ocean. It is known for its idyllic beaches, coral reefs and black and white colobus monkeys

Travelling to Mombasa

We flew to Mombasa from Nairobi with Kenya Airways. The flight cost £123 per person for a return flight including 20kgs of luggage. The flight takes approximately one hour. During the flight we were offered a soft drink and a snack. Unfortunately they don’t sell any other refreshments or food on the flight. Whilst flying to Mombasa we could clearly see the top of Kilimanjaro through the clouds.

When we arrived at Mombasa airport our taxi driver was waiting for us with a sign with our names on. We had booked the return transfer through booking.com at a cost of £88 for the return journey. The journey time to our hotel at Diani beach was approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes. Our driver Cassian was very informative throughout the journey. He stopped on the way for us to buy cold drinks and cigarettes.

Ferry crossing

On the journey you have to travel over the river using the Likoni ferry crossing – this is an interesting experience in itself. One ferry carries pedestrians only and others carry the vast range of vehicles seeking to make the crossing. When you arrive at the ferry port there are queues of vehicles waiting to cross, hoards of walking passengers and people pulling carts full of goods. Adjacent to the port there is a ship permanently berthed which hosts a library. We saw a long line of children from various local schools waiting to enter the library. It really is a colourful hive of activity at the crossing.

Accommodation

When we arrived at the Baobab Beach Resort the concierge greeted us and took our cases. We were asked to take a seat and were offered a soft drink. A friendly member of the front of house team came over to us and explained the various aspects of the hotel including the dining options, swimming pools, shops, spa and massage facilities and entertainment. The Baobab is an all-inclusive resort in Diani Beach.

Rooms

We were then taken to our room which was on the far side of the hotel by the quiet pool. Our room had two double four-poster beds with full mosquito nets. The bathroom was very large with a spacious walk-in shower (it would have been nice if it had also had a bath). In the bathroom there were double sinks with plenty of space for toiletries. There was also plenty of storage space for clothes and other belongings.  There was also a small table and seating area.

Our balcony overlooked the pool and just about a sea view. The balcony was also a good size with comfortable seating and loungers on it.  The balcony was visited daily by the local Sykes monkey. You have to ensure the balcony door is kept locked, not just shut, as these clever little fellows know exactly how to open the doors and get into your room. They will then take what they want and leave the room in a state of devastation!

Pool scene

There are several pools within the hotel complex including an infinity pool, a quiet pool, a pool with pool bar and pool located near to the main bar. There were always plenty of beds around the pool so there’s therefore no need to get up early to grab one. The infinity pool and pool near to the main bar both have entertainment throughout the day including water polo, aqua aerobics, and dancing.  We visited all of them except the quiet pool as we were not sure we would be welcome!  It was an enjoyable experience to be sat at the pool bar sampling the cocktails, especially the local cocktail called the Dawa. These taste delicious but are very potent so be warned!

Food and drink

There are three buffet restaurants located around the complex which serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can eat in any of them but we always chose the Maridadi Restaurant as we felt it was the best one and with a bit more atmosphere as well as choice. This was an enjoyable place to dine as it did not have the motorway café vibe as can be the case with some all inclusive resorts. The drinks are waiter/waitress service although if ordering a cocktail they have to go to the main bar for this which does take a bit of time. The restaurant has different themes for each day. The table covers, place mats and the uniforms of the staff all change to match the chosen theme.

The food is of a really good quality and has an excellent choice of dishes. There is something for everyone no matter what your taste. At breakfast you can have a full English if you wish but there is also plenty of choice for other tastes, including Indian cuisine.  There was always cereal, fruit and pastries available ant much more.  

Indian Influence

There is a big Indian influence in the cooking in Kenya which can be seen from the food served at every meal. We love Indian food so it was great for us!

Vegetarians

Vegetarians need not worry either as there a good choice too. In fact we often ate the vegetarian curries which were amazing. Lunch and evening meal also had an amazing choice – too much to mention. We were never disappointed with the food or the service. The hotel has two A la carte restaurants which you pay an additional fee for. As a result these were fairly empty during our stay.

A la carte

We usually like to eat somewhere different whilst on holiday but to be honest the menus did not appear to be any better than what was served in the buffet restaurant. The setting for the buffet restaurant is also lovely and you can have views overlooking the sea. Whilst dining here it felt more like a dining experience than a buffet restaurant due to the tasteful decor and excellent service.

Daytime snacks

There are also snacks available throughout the day at each bar. There is also a small area which serves pizza and chips beside the infinity pool. We ate lunch here on a number of occasions. The pizzas were freshly cooked and tasty and a range of refreshing cocktails were served at the bar next to the pizza servery. The view of the pool and beach beyond whilst eating your lunch made for an enjoyable experience.

Premium drinks and happy hour

In the bars some of the premium drinks are chargeable which is typical for a lot of all inclusive resorts unless you have booked ultra all inclusive. We did treat ourselves to some of the premium cocktails and bottles of cider. Happy hour is 7pm – 8pm when the premium drinks prices are reduced, but even outside of these times the drink prices were very reasonable. The bottles of cider were less than £2 outside of happy hour and a premium cocktail less than £4 so we were happy to indulge!

Entertainment

The entertainment in the hotel was spectacular. Although the shows are performed by the entertainment team and not brought in as some hotels do they were fantastic. The talent on show throughout the team was exceptional. They were all true performers and almost as good as some West End shows we have seen. The acrobatic shows just left you amazed. Our favourite show was The Lion King but we liked every show we saw. The large amphitheatre where the shows are performed also has its own bar therefore no need to bring drinks with you from the other bars.

Mombasa Sightseeing Tour

Prior to travelling to Kenya we had booked a sightseeing trip to Mombasa through Viator at a cost of £32 each . Our driver picked us up at around 7am from the hotel. We picked up several other people from various hotels along the way and then drove to Mombasa. Unfortunately we did not meet our guide until we reached Mombasa where we joined together with another group of people. Our guide Octavian then led the combined group.

Mombasa Tusks

The coach stopped at the famous Mombasa tusks. These were built in 1952 to commemorate a visit from Queen Elizabeth II. The tusks were made from wood and canvas.  These tusks are a big tourist attraction now and a must see if in Mombasa. We had plenty of time for photo opportunities.

We were then taken through a small park to the Swaminarayan Hindu Temple. Whilst walking through the park the guide pointed to several bats hanging from the trees. In the park there were also a lot of homeless people which was sad to see.

Swaminarayan Hindu Temple

Once through the park we had to cross several roads to get to the Temple. Once inside the Temple you had to remove your shoes before you could walk around. The Temple was beautiful with vibrant colours and very ornate. There were several murals telling the story of various members of the monarchy and gods. We were there for a sufficient time but we are sure that we could have read and seen more if we had stayed a little longer.

Wood carving centre

Our guide Octavian provided us with information as to how the wood carving centre worked. Each hut was owned by an individual family. They hand make a range of products and then attach their unique family number to each item. When their items are sold in the main shop the number and amount are recorded in a book and then monies paid to the family who had produced the item. It was impressive watching them create such wonderful things out of wood with what appeared to be primitive tools. Everything is worked by hand including the painting. Octavia informed us that for every tree cut down to produce the carvings four more are planted.

Once we had seen how the carvings were produced we were given the opportunity to look around the shop. The shop had so many different items for sale, from small wooden animals to large tribal shields. The prices were pretty reasonable compared to the those in the shops and markets in Nairobi.

When we had finished looking around the shop we still had some time before we needed to get back onto the bus so we decided to wander around outside for a while and enjoy a cold drink. It was interesting to just sit and watch the monkeys playing, jumping on cars and getting up to mischief!

Spice Market

Following the visit to the wood carving centre we were taken by bus to the Spice Market. The true hustle and bustle of Mombasa can be seen in the market which was crowded and noisy, a real hive of activity. Each stall is trying to sell something to you but they were not too pushy. The colours and smells within the market were amazing. We were supposed to keep together as a group and follow the guide but several people did not do this. This part of the tour seemed a bit disorganised with people not really knowing where they should be going. We bought a tub of cashew nuts to try which were very tasty!

Surrounding the market were various small café type places selling a range of food and drinks. We like to sample the local food and so we would have loved to have had the time to do this but unfortunately we were told that we must get back on to the bus which was a walk away due to there not being any parking near the market. As we had not had chance to eat in the cafes we found a street vendor selling kebabs so we stopped and bought one – well worth it as it was very tasty. We could detect a touch of envy on the bus when we got back on and others watched us tucking into our kebabs!

Local buses

Whilst walking through the streets you cannot help but notice the local buses which are all uniquely painted. Some of the slogans on the buses did make us laugh.

Old Town

We were then taken by bus to the old town which appeared to have an election campaign in progress. The old town has its own small port. The streets and the buildings in the old town look how you would expect compared to some of the more modern buildings in Mombasa. It was interesting walking around the streets and port area just admiring the scenery.

Rug making

During our tour through the streets of the old town we were taken to a small shop where several people were busy making rugs. The guide asked if we wanted to have a go at it but we felt that we did not need to do this. We don’t think anyone in our group wanted to have a go to be honest. Most people were getting hungry by this time apart from us!

Fort Jesus

As we walked through the old town we eventually arrived at Fort Jesus. There is a fee to enter the ground of the Fort but due to shortage of time we were not able to take a look around. We needed the bathroom so our guide spoke to someone at the ticket office at Fort Jesus who allowed us to go in to use the facilities so we actually did manage to get a sneaky peak inside. It would have been nice to have had some time to explore and for photo opportunities.

We then split back into two groups; one was a small group of six of us who were heading back to Diani beach having completed the half-day tour, and the other joined a coach heading on to lunch and further sightseeing destinations.

Summary of the sightseeing tour

The tour was definitely good value for money. Our guide Octavia was very knowledgeable and provided us with lots of information and facts throughout the tour. The only downside was at times it appeared to be a bit unorganised especially at the spice market. There were times when we were walking along streets trying not to lose our guide. It was late afternoon when we arrived back at our hotel. The experience would have been better if we had been allowed time for lunch as it would have been nice to sample some of the local food. Being able to look around Fort Jesus would have also added to the experience.

Sea Safari

Every day there are people on the beach waiting outside of the main hotels wanting to show you the wonderful sea life. We were stopped by two people who started to show us some of the sights – we could have said no but we were interested to learn more. Some of the sea life is very hard to spot but they knew exactly what they were looking for which made for an informative experience.

Marine life

They showed us a variety of sea creatures including starfish of various colours, sea urchins, crabs and sea snakes. We thought some of the star fish weren’t real until we saw their legs moving.

At the end they explained that they do this to earn money to support their families as they don’t have much money. We did give them some money – the equivalent of £10 which they seemed happy with and was fair enough for the time they had spent with us and the information they had provided. They asked us if we wanted to go on the Sea Safari the next morning – this is a boat that picks you up from the shore and takes you a short distance to a sand bank which is exposed when the tide goes out.

Glass bottom boat

We were picked up the following morning for the sea safari at around 10am. The boat had a glass bottom so we could get a decent view of the marine life. One of the boat crew dived into the sea and swam underneath the boat to feed the fish and so we saw hundreds of fish through the glass attracted by a tasty snack.

Snorkelling

When we arrived at the island we were given the opportunity to snorkel. We were guided by the member of the crew who had dived into the sea to feed the fish. He pointed out several different species of sea creatures for us to look at. Again he knew exactly where to look. Amongst the varied marine life we saw whilst snorkelling were giant eels and octopi. Some of the larger sea urchins are poisonous therefore you have to be careful where you tread!

Value for money

We saw a range of sea life and several types of fish of many colours. We had about an hour at the sand bank which was sufficient. The trip has to be undertaken at specific times due to the tide. We paid about £20 for the two of us and this represented good value for money. You can also buy drinks and other goods from local sellers to help support the local economy. The only thing we did not agree with was the disturbing of nature and picking creatures up. Having said that, the guides were very knowledgeable about all of the creatures and spoke about the need to protect them.

Summary of Diani Beach and Baobab Beach Resort

The whole experience visiting this lovely part of the world was just amazing from start to finish. The beaches are breath taking with white sands and turquoise sea providing a beautiful vista. The people of Kenya and Diani Beach are very friendly and happy people. We could not fault the Baobab Beach Resort in any way. At the Baobab the service from all members of staff was first class and they were always willing to help. Everyone had a smile on their face when serving the guests, something that cannot be said at some resorts we have visited. Everyone works tirelessly at the Baobab to ensure that guests have an enjoyable holiday. The grounds of the Baobab are immaculate and are maintained on a daily basis.

It is also lovely to see monkeys, baboons and dik dik wondering freely around the resort grounds. The monkeys did try and steal food and drinks but they never behaved in an aggressive manner. Members of staff do try and chase them away to ensure that the guests aren’t bothered by them. Would we definitely recommend Diani Beach and Baobab Beach Resort.

Things to do

• If you have not already been on a Safari prior to your Diani beach visit Tsavo East and Taita Hills
• Do the Sea safari
• Do a sight seeing tour of Mombasa.
• Do a snorkelling tour to Kisite Marine Park.
• Visit the Fort Jesus museum.
• Do a Wasini day trip dolphin watching.
• Sample the local cuisine.

Top Tips

• If booking excursions ensure you book with a reputable company. Check them out on tripadvisor prior to booking.
• Keep you balcony door locked at all times to prevent the monkeys getting in.
• If venturing outside of the hotel be aware that some areas are unsafe – it’s best to check with the hotel reception staff to make sure.
• Prior to visiting Kenya ensure you have taken Malaria tablets and that you have enough to cover your visit and after your return depending on the medication you are taking.
• Ensure you take plenty of mosquito repellant.
• Use the mosquito net at night.
• Do not wear expensive jewellery / watches especially if you are going in to the centre of Mombasa.
• Be vigilant at all times especially in the centre of Mombasa as there is a risk of pickpockets.
• If going on any excursion ensure you have plenty of water, hand sanitiser, sun cream, mosquito spray and tissues.
• Check out the weather below for the best time to visit Diani Beach and Mombasa.
• Check out other destinations in Africa we have visited. Click on the following links Safari/Nairobi, Tunisia, Hurghada, Sharm El Sheikh, Cairo, Cape Verde, Agadir
• Visit the government website for information on safety and security before visiting Mombasa https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/kenya

Weather

The Masai Mara is one of the most important wildlife conservation areas in Africa. It is home to the migration of the Wildebeest. This is known as one of the ten wonders of the world

Travelling to Kenya

Accommodation night before flight

We flew to Nairobi from Heathrow Airport on Sunday 11th September with British Airways. The day before we were due to fly we stayed at the Thistle Hotel at Heathrow Airport. We asked if we could have a twin room due to one of us snoring (Mike). We were advised that this would be an extra £30 which we thought was a bit too much as we were still only staying in one room therefore we didn’t do this. To access the rooms from the reception area there was a small ramp which was only wide enough to pull one suitcase up. This wasn’t great as we had two suitcases each and it would have been better if the ramp was wider. The rooms were clean and not too bad a size.

Food and drink at the Thistle hotel

There was a nice bar upstairs with a large outside seating area which overlooked the runway. This could have been an amazing place to sit and have a drink whilst watching the planes but it was a bit dated and in need of a bit of TLC. Despite this it was still lovely to sit outside as it was a nice warm day. We did have an issue with trying to find someone to serve us as there was nobody behind the bar for some time. Breakfast at the hotel was very good with a wide variety including full English, cereals, pastries, fruit and yoghurt. This hotel is well located with a bus stop right outside the hotel which takes you directly to the airport by local bus in under 10 minutes. This hotel could be far better if it had just had a bit of money spending on it as it did look a bit run down in certain areas. We would though still recommend this hotel for its location and value for money. We paid for a one night stay which included 14 days parking.

On the day of our flight we had not booked an executive lounge which we normally do due to no availability. Instead we had a couple of drinks in Wetherspoons which was a bit different to the bubbles and fizz of the lounges.

Flight to Nairobi

We were fortunate to get business class flights with British Airways which is a lovely way to travel. Our excuse was that we were unable to get in to the lounge therefore we made up for the lack of fizz by having a few glasses on the flight. It was lovely to have Champagne before you have even left the runway.

The food and cocktails on the flight were excellent. The comfort of a flat bed on the flight was definitely a big bonus as you don’t wake up with a stiff neck as you are able to lie down and enjoy the in-flight entertainment. The flight to Nairobi was 8 hours and 50 minutes which is not too long.

Passport control Nairobi

When we arrived in Nairobi it was horrendous getting through passport control. It took over one and a half hours from getting off the plane to leaving the airport. Although it appeared to be a pain in the posterior at the time we understood this is for everyone’s safety and security.

Whilst we were waiting to go through passport control we were contacted several times by our transfer. We were a bit worried that the driver might leave due to the length of time it took us to get through the immigration process. As we came out of the airport we were expecting someone to be stood there with our names on a board but unfortunately not! Thankfully our transfer contacted us again and took us to our waiting car. We had booked a return transfer through Booking.com https://www.booking.com at a cost of £35.

Nairobi accommodaton

We stayed at the Boma (Red Cross Street) which is a 20-30 minute drive from the airport. The cost of the hotel was £100 per night. It was almost midnight when we arrived therefore it was very quiet. Check in was very quick with helpful, polite members of staff. The concierge took our cases to the room. We had emailed the hotel prior to arriving to request a twin room which was agreed but when we got to our room it was a double room. Reception quickly rectified this and gave us a twin room. The rooms are very spacious with a desk and mini-fridge in the room. The bathroom was also spacious with a separate shower and bath. Our room overlooked the swimming pool which was lit up at night. Unfortunately we can’t say what the pool was like as we went on our safari the next morning. Breakfast at the hotel was impressive with something for everyone consisting of hot food including sausage, eggs and bacon, cereals, fruit, pastries and breads. Drinks were waiter/waitress service which was a nice touch. All the staff we came in contact with at the hotel were lovely and did their best to meet our needs.

Travel to Safari

The following morning we were picked up at 7.30 by Axis Africa Safari. We had booked this through Safari Bookings https://www.safaribookings.com/. Our driver was Sylvia who was very chatty and made the journey very pleasant. She was also a safe driver which is unusual in Nairobi as everyone seemed to drive in a somewhat crazy manner.  We hit rush-hour traffic so it took us around 40 minutes to get to our destination.

We were taken to an awaiting jeep in the centre of Nairobi. On the jeep there was a family of four and a single man. We then headed on out of Nairobi to start our journey to the safari. The journey to the Masai Mara took around 6 hours with a couple of stops.

The Great Rift Valley

Our first stop was to view The Great Rift Valley. We pulled up at the side of the road along with many other jeeps. We spent around 15 minutes here which gave us time for photos and to get a drink if necessary as there was a small shop. The view was spectacular and worth stopping for. We did see some wildlife too, including some colourful birds and many Red Rock Rats.

Refreshment stop

At the second stop there was time for drinks, food and a toilet break. This was a popular place for tourists to stop as there were many other jeeps here. At the stop there was also a shop selling hand carved animals, paintings and many other interesting souvenirs. This is a very expensive place to buy gifts.  We bought them elsewhere at a fraction of the cost.

The roads to the Masai Mara were of a decent standard and therefore the journey wasn’t too bad. However the last 45 minutes of the journey was on a dirt track which was extremely bumpy. Our driver Geeman said we were getting a free 45 minute body massage!  Geeman was very informative throughout the journey and humorous which made for a fun trip.

Safari Accommodation

When we arrived at our accommodation, the Jambo Safari Lodge, at around 3.30 we were greeted by porters who took our cases. Check-in was very quick and easy. We were then shown to our room, an upgrade to a glass lodge which we had chosen rather than one of the tents which are also available at a cheaper cost.

As we entered the room we were pleasantly surprised – the room was lovely. The bathroom was tiled with a walk-in shower and double sink. The room was equipped with a clean king-sized bed, desk, wardrobe, seating area, toiletries and free water.

On the outside there was a large balcony overlooking the forest where there were many monkeys. We were advised to keep the balcony door locked at all times as the monkeys know how to open them.  We had not paid luxury prices therefore had not expected a room as nice as this. We had booked a mid-range safari for 3 days at a cost of US$570 which is around £470.

The lodge also had a swimming pool which is a nice touch if you are staying a bit longer and not going on Safari everyday. Unfortunately although the pool looked very inviting it was too cold to have a dip in it when we had returned from the Safari. We did see people in it on a number of occasions.

Lodge Food and Drink

Prior to setting off on our evening safari we had our evening meal at the lodge. Meals were included in the cost of the safari but drinks were extra, although very reasonably priced.  Wine was only served by the bottle which we found a bit disappointing as we sometimes only want a glass.  Bottles of Tusker Cider and Lager were around £2.50. The restaurant was fairly basic but we did expect that. The choice of food wasn’t particularly extensive but there was always something to eat that we enjoyed. The quality of the food was also good. It consisted of the usual buffet-type menu, a meat dish, a chicken dish, a fish dish, a vegetarian dish, vegetables, salads, breads and cakes. The staff in the restaurant were very attentive and willing to help.

Safari

The jeep arrived to pick us up at 6.30pm on our first day for an evening Safari. It was amazing to see a range of different animals as soon as we had left the drive of our lodge. There were many giraffes and zebras. Some of the other animals took a bit of looking for. On the first day of our safari we didn’t see all of the big five but did see some wonderful animals in their natural habitat (giraffes, zebras, gazelles, elephants, wildebeest, jackals and buffalos). Apparently early morning and in the evening are the best times to see the animals.

The Big Five

The next day we had an early breakfast and were picked up at around 7.15am for an early start. The hotel provided us with a lunch box which consisted of a sandwich, cake, banana, crisps, yogurt and a drink. It was amazing to see so many animals in the wild and to be so close to them. The safari exceeded all of our expectations of what the safari would be like. We managed to see four of the big five (lion, buffalo, leopard and elephant). Unfortunately we did not get to see the rhino but may be next time.

Warthogs

The Warthogs were very funny to watch. Our driver Geeman told us about them having a very short memory. They would set off running and forget where they were running to and just stop. All the Warthogs are called Pumbaa to Kenyans. Most people would assume that this comes from the film Lion King but it doesn’t. Kenyans called the Warthogs Pumbaa long before the film. Pumbaa means “to be absentminded, careless, foolish, ignorant, lazy, stupid and negligent”. Part of the fun of the safari was looking for the rarer animals.

Wildebeest, Elephants and Buffalo

It was spectacular being in the middle of a herd of wildebeest and buffalos. Just sitting and watching the elephants cooling themselves and their babies with mud was amazing. In fact, just having the time to watch each animal in their natural environment being the creatures that they are was breath-taking. Although we are writing about our experience on the safari we are not sure if our words will truly do justice to what it was like to be there.

Masai Mara River

We stopped at the Masai Mara River and were able to get out of the jeep. We were accompanied by a ranger who had what looked like a tranquilizer gun. This river is where the wildebeest cross from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara. Unfortunately many of them don’t make it as they get drowned or eaten by the crocodiles. It was quite sad to see such a large amount of dead wildebeest in the river.

Across the river on the opposite bank were many hippos who were just laid bathing in the sunshine. We were aware that hippos are the deadliest land mammals on earth therefore we were glad that they were on the other side of the river and we had our ranger to protect us. It is estimated that hippos kill around 500 people a year in Africa.

The ranger guided us on a walk along the river bank where there were many monkeys running around. We even saw what looked like a spiderman lizard but was actually an African Redhead Agamas.

Lunch

We were taken to an area to have lunch which was provided by the lodge. Here there were some toilets but they were not very pleasant. The whole group of seven of us ate together. There were many monkeys hanging around waiting to take the food. Many of the Safari Jeeps had also stopped here for lunch. All of the guides spent their time chasing the monkeys away. We actually liked them and didn’t want them to be chased away but they may have had their reasons. Some of the monkeys would climb in to the open roof of the Jeep. When we were about to leave one monkey jumped in through the roof which scared some of our group but it was soon chased out by our guide.

Lions, Cheetahs and Leopards

Many of the animals are in plentiful supply in the Masai Mara including zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, buffalo, gazelles and warthogs but the lions, cheetahs and leopards are harder to find. When one of the rarer animals is spotted the driver informs the other jeeps by radio. Where there is a rarer animal you will find many jeeps watching and taking photos. We were fortunate to see all three of them.

The Masai Mara borders Tanzania. Our guide advised that it is dangerous to drive on the Tanzanian side as there are restrictions with severe consequences. He informed us that people have been known to have been shot for going in to Tanzania without permission.

Evening Meal at the Lodge

We returned to the lodge at around 6.30pm and changed for evening meal. The food was always good quality and clearly labelled as to what was on offer. Usually we would have a few drinks with our meal and then sit in the bar for a further one or two, or even more! Unfortunately the Lodge did not have a bar but they are in the process of building one. However it did have a nice sitting out area to have a drink. The drinks were very reasonably priced at around £2.50 a bottle. The weather did get a bit cold at night therefore we needed jackets. Due to the early start the following day we did not stay out late.

Masai Village

On our last day we were taken to a Masai Village. It cost $20 USD each to enter the village which is around £16.50. We had read not to take too much money on the Safari as some people had had money stolen. We need not have worried about this as our room had a safe and there were security staff walking around the lodge of an evening. Our itinerary for the Safari showed that the village was an optional extra and not part of the Safari cost. It also showed an early morning Safari on our last day which we did not do which was a bit disappointing. Due to this we had not taken enough money but Geeman (Guide) kindly paid it for us which we gave him back when we went to a cash point.

Tribe Dance

First the tribe showed us their dancing but then asked some of us to join in. They gave us sticks and cloaks to wear. This was great fun but was also very physical. How attractive a male is to a female is based on how high he can jump therefore the dance involved a lot of jumping up and down.

Fire Lighting

The tribe mentioned that they still start fires the traditional way using a stick, dried glass and flint stone. This was a lot more difficult than it looked. It was hard to keep the stick spinning fast enough to generate a spark. We weren’t sure why they didn’t just buy some matches or a lighter as it’s so much easier!

Mud huts

Each of us in our group were taken separately in to one of the homes to have a look inside. The mud huts are made from wood and elephant faeces. Surprisingly they didn’t smell. The tribe member who showed us his home said that he lived in the hut with his mother, father and six siblings. The hut was only small with a bedroom for parents and a bed in the living area for all of the children.

We were a bit shocked to see that there was electricity in the hut as we had thought that they lived in a totally primitive manner. He also informed us that all of the children go to school which they have to pay for hence why they charge visitors to enter the village. The villagers also earn money from selling the jewellery that they make.

Journey back to Nairobi

After our visit to the village we headed back to Nairobi. On our way back we called for lunch which was included in the cost of the trip. It was a buffet style lunch. Drinks were available for an additional cost but were very reasonable at around £2 for a bottle of lager or cider. We arrived at our hotel The Boma at around 4pm after dropping four of our group off at the airport. The other member of our group joined another group at the restaurant as he was going on to join another Safari.

Carnivore Restaurant

We booked the famous Carnivore Restaurant through Viator https://www.viator.com/ at a cost of £52 per person which included dinner and private transfer (drinks were an additional cost). We were picked up at 6.30pm by our driver Francis. He arrived in a very clean new black minibus style car. Francis was dressed in a Tux. We felt quite special having the luxury vehicle and Francis dressed in style. The journey from our hotel to the restaurant took around 30 minutes.

When we arrived at the restaurant we had to go through a security check. The vehicle was checked inside, outside and underneath.

In the restaurant we had our table for two hours of dining. This is a very popular and famous restaurant therefore all of the tables were reserved. When someone left the table was quickly taken by someone else. It is a large restaurant with many tables and hence it holds a lot of people.

Once escorted to our table we were offered the drinks menu. We ordered a bottle of wine at a cost of £25 which is a reasonable price for a restaurant. We were then asked if we wanted the doctor to come and give us some medicine in the form of a drink which we agreed to. The drink was a Dawa which is a traditional Kenyan drink. In fact the Dawa drink is credited to the Carnivore Restaurant. The cost was around £7 each which is also reasonable. We don’t think that we could have drunk many of these as they were quite potent.

Firstly our waiter brought out trays of sauces and salad. Then the meat carvers constantly came round with various meats including steak, chicken, turkey, sausage, liver, ribs, ostrich, crocodile and ox balls.

For each type of meat they brought round on skewers the carvers recommended which of the sauces were meant to accompany them. One of us (Debbie) thought the ox balls were potatoes and asked for five! All the meat is cooked on a huge open fire pit. The steak is cooked as you like it as at the beginning of the meal the waiter asks how you like your steak. The meat keeps flowing until you say stop.

The food, service and atmosphere at the restaurant was amazing. If you are in Nairobi then this restaurant is a must visit as not only was the food delicious but it is also a quite iconic restaurant.

Summary

The days on the Safari were very long with early morning starts and you are out in the wild until evening but it was definitely worth every minute. Our guide Geeman was amazing and his knowledge was extensive and made for a really informative trip. He was a really good driver and knew where to find the animals. He also was quite humorous which added to the whole experience. We are not sure how the other drivers and guides are but we feel that Geeman went out of his way to ensure we all had the best time possible. Due to being on the Jeep for several days with our group we got to know some lovely people and again this added to the experience as we all got on well and chatted and laughed together. This was truly one of the best experiences of our lives. Everything about this trip was amazing.

Things to do in Nairobi

• Go on Safari in the Masai Mara
• Visit the Carnivore Restaurant
• Visit Nairobi National Park
• Visit the Elephant orphanage
• Visit the Giraffe Centre
• Visit Amboseli National park
• Visit Kiambethu Tea Farm
• Visit a Masai Village
• Take a shopping tour
• Take a historical and cultural day tour in Nairobi

Top Tips

• Research Safari’s to ensure you get the best price and the Safari you want.
• Take hand sanitiser, sun cream, hat, mosquito spray, toilet wipes, plastic bag and ordinary wipes when going on Safari (There are no toilets in the middle of the Masai Mara therefore be prepared).
• Wear browns and greens on Safari as apparently insects are attracted to bright colours, blacks and blues.
• If going to a Masai Village take sweets, writing books and pens for the children.
• If going to Carnivore Restaurant via a tour operator check what is included as some only quote for the journey to and from the restaurant and don’t include the cost of the meal.
• When booking any Safaris or excursions check reviews and trust pilot for the tour operator to ensure it is a reputable company.
• When booking a hotel in Nairobi check that it is in a safe area with good security.
• Check out weather below for the best time to visit Nairobi as it has wet seasons.
• Check out other destinations we have visited in Africa. Please click on the following links Diani Beach, Tunisia, Hurghada, Sharm El Sheikh, Cairo, Cape Verde, Agadir
• Before traveling to Nairobi check the government safety and security advice https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/kenya

Weather in Nairobi