Madagascar

Antananarivo

We had booked our excursion through MadaAssist at a cost of £9 each therefore did not know what to expect.

Tuk Tuk Ride

Antananarivo — the capital of Madagascar, where tuk-tuks bounce like kangaroos, chickens and traffic share the same road rules (i.e., none), and adventure comes with a solid dose of guesswork. We had grand plans: an all-day tuk-tuk ride with a “choose-your-own-itinerary” vibe. Spoiler alert: the only thing we chose was the duration of our confusion.

Armed with Google Translate and optimism, we asked our driver (in English-to-French via our phones), “Can you show us places you think we’ll like?” His response was a confident nod, a smile, and then several hours of… driving. Through neighborhoods, markets, side streets, and what may have been someone’s driveway. It was like a real-time documentary called “Locals: Unfiltered”. Fascinating? Yes. Action-packed? Not exactly.

There were no stops. Not a single “Would you like to get out here?” Just hours of watching everyday Malagasy life go by — people cooking on open fires, kids playing in dust patches, and a strong contender for World’s Busiest Chicken crossing the road (spoiler: he made it). We weren’t bored. But we also weren’t entirely sure what the plan was.

Remana Beach

Eventually, taking destiny into our own hands (and back into Google Translate), we requested: “Remana Beach, please.” And just like that, the tuk-tuk turned hero.

Remana Beach was exactly what we’d hoped for — soft sand, crystal-clear water, and hardly another tourist in sight. A slice of paradise… with one small twist: the restaurant we chose had no toilet. None. Fortunately, we’d made a pit stop en route. Crisis narrowly avoided.

As for the restaurant, it was rustic with a capital R, but charming. We ordered a seafood platter and a steak. Then we waited. And waited. And waited. Turns out, our meal was being cooked on an actual open fire out the back, like something out of a camping episode of MasterChef: Survival Edition. But honestly? Totally worth it.

The wine? Surprisingly decent for a beach shack. The food? Fresh, beautifully cooked, and so attractively plated that we briefly considered taking up food photography. The bill? An eye-watering, jaw-dropping, are-you-sure-this-is-right £14 for the entire meal and drinks. For context, that’s what one sad airport sandwich costs in the UK.

We dipped in the sea between sips of wine and bites of grilled prawns, and all was well in the world. Eventually, full and salty, we climbed back into our trusty tuk-tuk and headed for the ship — ready for our next stop: Nosy Be.

Moral of the story? Sometimes the best days are the ones that go a little sideways. Especially when they end with seafood, sandy toes, and wine you didn’t have to remortgage your house for.

Nosy Be

Lokobe Nature Reserve

Madagascar’s answer to a tropical paradise, where the lemurs are friendlier than your neighbour’s cat and the canoes come with a complimentary upper-body workout.

Our journey began as we disembarked from our cruise ship, stepping into a bustling port teeming with enthusiastic locals eager to offer excursions. It felt like being the last cookie at a bake sale—everyone wanted a piece of us.

After navigating through a sea of persuasive tour operators, we finally located our designated guide. We waited briefly for four fellow adventurers to join us, during which time we practiced our polite decline skills with other eager vendors.

Our chariot—a minibus with character—whisked us away through the scenic landscapes of Nosy Be. Our guide, a fountain of knowledge, shared insights about the island’s flora, fauna, and the occasional anecdote that may or may not have been embellished for dramatic effect.

Upon arrival at the edge of the Lokobe Nature Reserve, we were introduced to our next mode of transport: traditional dugout canoes. These charming vessels required us to paddle and occasionally bail out water, adding an unexpected arm workout to our itinerary.

Inside the reserve, we were greeted by guides with eyes sharper than a hawk’s. They pointed out lemurs leaping from trees, chameleons blending into leaves, and snakes that, thankfully, were more interested in sunbathing than us. Holding a snake was a highlight—nothing says “vacation” like a reptile draped over your shoulders.

The terrain was rugged, and my choice of white trainers quickly proved to be a rookie mistake. They now carry the earthy hues of Madagascar—a fashionable souvenir, if you ask me.

One of the most enchanting moments was interacting with the black lemurs, the reserve’s iconic residents. These curious creatures, known for their expressive eyes and playful antics, approached us with a mix of caution and curiosity. With guidance from our knowledgeable guides, we offered them pieces of banana, which they accepted delicately from our hands. Feeling their tiny fingers grasp the fruit was both surreal and heartwarming—a true highlight of the trip.

Lokobe Nature Reserve is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an impressive array of flora and fauna. As we ventured deeper into the forest, our guides pointed out:

• Nosy Be Panther Chameleons: These vibrant reptiles showcased their color-changing abilities, blending seamlessly with the foliage.
• Leaf-Tailed Geckos: Masters of camouflage, these geckos were nearly indistinguishable from the tree bark they clung to.
• Boas and Tree Snakes: Non-venomous and surprisingly docile, these snakes added an element of excitement to our trek.
• Frogs and Geckos: Their vivid colors and unique calls added to the symphony of the forest.
• Endemic Birds: From the Madagascar pygmy kingfisher to various vangas, bird enthusiasts would find plenty to admire.

After our trek, we returned to our canoes, which were now ingeniously tied together and towed by a motorised boat. Picture a conga line of canoes gliding through the water—a sight as amusing as it was unique.

Our adventure concluded with a meal at a quaint local restaurant. The spread included potatoes, rice, bread, seafood, chicken, and fruit. It was simple, hearty, and the perfect end to our escapade.

On our way back to the ship, we stopped at a local market, immersing ourselves in the vibrant culture and picking up a few souvenirs to commemorate our unforgettable day.

In summary, our £60 Viator tour to Lokobe Reserve was a delightful blend of adventure, nature, and cultural immersion. Just remember to wear appropriate footwear and be prepared for a day full of surprises and smiles.

The flora was equally captivating, with towering canarium trees, strangler figs, and a variety of orchids and ferns thriving in the humid jungle air. Many of these plants have medicinal properties and are used by local communities, adding a layer of cultural significance to the natural beauty.

Our day at Lokobe Nature Reserve was a harmonious blend of adventure, education, and cultural immersion. From paddling through mangroves to sharing a meal with locals, every moment was a testament to the rich tapestry of life in Madagascar. If you ever find yourself in Nosy Be, don’t miss the opportunity to experience this natural wonder—just remember to leave the white trainers at home.

Travel Tips

Traveling to Madagascar offers an unparalleled experience with its unique biodiversity and vibrant culture. However, to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip, consider the following tips:

Safety and Security

• Stay Vigilant: Petty crimes like pickpocketing are common, especially in urban areas such as Antananarivo. Be cautious in crowded places like markets and bus terminals.
• Avoid Night Travel: Traveling after dark increases the risk of encountering armed bandits, particularly on main highways.
• Use Reputable Services: Only book tours and transportation through reputable agencies or hotel recommendations to avoid scams.
• Secure Your Belongings: Keep valuables out of sight, and avoid displaying signs of wealth. Use a money belt or neck wallet for important documents and cash.

Transportation Tips

• Road Conditions: Many roads are in poor condition, and driving habits can be unpredictable. If you choose to drive, ensure you have an international driving permit and consider hiring a local driver.
• Public Transport Caution: Avoid using “taxi-brousse” (bush taxis) as they are often overcrowded and involved in accidents.
• Ferry Safety: If traveling by ferry, ensure the vessel is not overcrowded and has appropriate safety equipment. Avoid sea travel during bad weather conditions.

Health Precautions

• Vaccinations: Consult with a healthcare provider at least 6 weeks before travel to receive recommended vaccinations, including those for malaria and dengue.
• Water Safety: Tap water is unsafe to drink. Use bottled or purified water, and avoid ice in drinks.
• Medical Facilities: Healthcare services are limited outside major cities. Ensure your travel insurance covers medical evacuation.
• Emergency Numbers: Save key contacts: Police – 117, Fire Department – 118.

Wildlife and Nature

• Respect Wildlife: While lemurs and other animals may appear friendly, avoid feeding or touching them to prevent potential diseases like rabies.
• Insect Precautions: Wear protective clothing and use insect repellent to guard against bites from mosquitoes and other insects.
• Swimming Safety: Avoid swimming in freshwater bodies to prevent infections like schistosomiasis. Stick to designated swimming areas and heed local advice.

Money and Scams

• Currency: Carry enough cash, especially in rural areas where ATMs may be scarce. Use credit cards only at reputable establishments.
• Avoid Scams: Be cautious of individuals posing as guides or officials. Always verify credentials and avoid unsolicited offers.

Cultural Etiquette

• Local Taboos (Fady): Certain regions have specific taboos. Consult with local guides to ensure respectful behavior.
• Identification: Always carry your passport, as police may conduct random ID checks.

By staying informed and cautious, you can enjoy the rich experiences Madagascar has to offer while ensuring your safety and well-being

Things to do

1. Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
Explore dramatic limestone formations and encounter various endemic species in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2. Avenue of the Baobabs
Visit this iconic stretch near Morondava, lined with ancient baobab trees, especially picturesque at sunrise and sunset.

3. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
Discover lush rainforests teeming with biodiversity, including the largest lemur species, the indri.

4. Nosy Be
Enjoy beach activities, snorkeling, and diving in this island off Madagascar’s northwest coast, known for its clear waters and coral reefs.

5. Île Sainte-Marie (Nosy Boraha)
Relax on pristine beaches, explore historical sites, and partake in seasonal whale watching on this tranquil east coast island.

6. Isalo National Park
Trek through sandstone formations, canyons, and natural pools, observing lemurs and unique landscapes.

7. Antananarivo
Experience the capital’s rich history and culture by exploring royal palaces, bustling markets, and museums.

8. Ranomafana National Park
Visit this rainforest reserve, home to several lemur species, including the rare golden bamboo lemur.

9. Ankarana National Park
Explore limestone formations, caves, and underground rivers, and observe various lemur species and reptiles.

10. Ifaty
Relax on sandy beaches and explore coral reefs in this southwest coastal area, ideal for snorkeling and diving.

11. Ramena Beach
Located approximately 18 kilometers from Diego Suarez, Ramena Beach is a serene coastal destination known for its soft white sands and calm, shallow waters.

12. Lokobe Nature Reserve
Situated on Nosy Be island, Lokobe Nature Reserve is the last remaining primary forest in the region. Accessible only by traditional canoe.

Weather

Temp – Celsius Rain – mm	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
High Temp	30	30	31	31	30	29	29	29	30	31	31	31
Low Temp	22	22	22	22	21	19	18	18	19	20	21	22
Rainfall	410	400	250	100	50	30	30	40	40	60	120	230
Number of days	24	21	19	14	7	6	6	6	7	10	14	20